Aftermarket signals which wire goes....?
 

Hmmm....I seem to have lost the little paper on which I had written which color wire goes to which. If your turn signals are stock you'll say...the orange goes to the orange..etc. If you have installed any type of aftermarket signals, you'll know. The new ones have black, black with white stripe, and red wires. How 'bout this....quote my post and fill it in...

Left side:
Orange and white to....
Orange to..................
Green to.....................

Right side:
Lt Blu and black broken line to........
Lt Blu and white stripe to...............
Green to.....................
I have tried many many combinations and almost had it working but the best I could come up with was everything worked but when it was blinking left, the right sides were faintly flashing as well. Same for the right.
Thanks guys.........
K

the green is ground...

are those colors you listed coming from the bike or the new signals?

never mind...i just re-read your post

Left side:
Orange and white to....black white
Orange to..................red
Green to.....................black

Right side:
Lt Blu and black broken line to........red
Lt Blu and white stripe to...............black white
Green to.....................black

do you have an auto ranging multimeter?

Since I don't know the brand of t-signals you have I'll go with an explanation of the stock set up instead.

Left side:
Green = Ground, likely Black on your new signals.
Orange = Turnsignal, likely Red on your new signals.
Orange/White = Running light, likely Black/White on your new signals.

Repeat for right side = Light Blue

Kai Ju

that's backwards of my guess....now i dunno

this is where the multimeter would help

Thanks all......knew I could count on you.
My battery is on the charger now as all my tinkering killed it.
I'll connect in the morn......and then go for a chilly ride..aaaaahhhh
Cheers
K

Actually yours and my instructions are identical.


Kai Ju

Well, hooked'em up and blinking is at double speed and the rears blink together as do the idiot lights on the "dash", although the fronts blink separately. So...I will look carefully at the schematic in the manual and try and figure out why LandR rears would light together.
Maybe try pulling just the running lines on each side etc.

Tried unplugging blinker wires...rears still in unison. Tried switching both sides of fronts striped and solids, leaving greens alone...same.
Switch itself was sticky, used WD40. That got switch smooth but nochange in function. Anyone have any other ideas?

I'm confused now...you were doing front and back at the same time or hooking up the front caused the backs to fug up?

Never touched the rears. Crash meant new left side fairing. Left blinker was smashed too so I got a pair of flushmounts off of Ebag. They have the same Red, Blk/WT, Blk trio of wires that the old aftermarket lenses had. I am hooking up the left and right side front blinker lights. As for the problems...I'm leaning towards either wires/contacts INSIDE the cheaply made new lights are shorting...or something inside the switch housing is off. Guess I'll have to get out the multi meter and spend an hour checking what's grounding when.

This one is pissing me off. Electrical is usually the only thing I'm good at, but I'm stumped. The rear is powered almost directly off of the front, so in theory they should act in unison. The only thing I can think of is the relay itself. Did the rears work as advertised before messing with the front?

Yep...never a problem with the rears. Never touched them. Fronts were fine until now....
I HAVE been messing with the whole new front end set up so I had the switch housing off and on a couple of times. The switch housing on the left has a wide metal band that wraps around the clipon. I wonder if this NEEDS to make ground...and it's not, with the new bars. I doubt it but.....
Tomorrow I'll check to see if the bars act as ground with the meter.
Electricity is so basic....once you understand how it works.
If the rears are blinking together I suspect the switch itself is giving juice to both leads. How, I don't know.

The switch on the bars shouldn't have a ground at all. It gets it's juice from the turn signal relay and then feeds it directly to front left or front right. Those in turn directly feed rear left or rear right.

The front running lights are a different power source and don't come off the switch at all, they come from the headlight switch on the bar.

You may have fried the relay somehow...

Thanks for staying with me Drew...
Now...you said that juice flows from relay to switch to fronts to rears. How are the rears flashing in tandem when the fronts are not? Something is amiss.
Hmmm...a clue. You say the front running lights are on their own circuit? As they are now....they do not light when the flashers are flashing. That is to say it does not go from lit to brighter as it flashes. It goes from lit to blinking.

you're right....I had to look it up. LOL. The power comes from the same switch.

what year is your bike?

nevermind...see it in your signature

I know you said you switched the wires and tried...but looking at the wiring diagram the orginal directions i gave you were backwards. it should be:
Left side:
Orange and white to....red
Orange to..................black white
Green to.....................black

Right side:
Lt Blu and black broken line to........black white
Lt Blu and white stripe to...............red
Green to.....................black

Sounds to me like you have the ground and running light wires switched at the front.

I installed LP Type 3 flush mount turn signals with the 3 wires and mounted the oem fronts in back after running wires for the running lights for the rears (even though by law running lights should be red not yellow). For easy front TS wire connection, I spliced-in polarized connectors typically used for trailer lights (could only find 4-wire connectors) so now its fast and I don't have to remember what color plugs to another.

OK, Drew, you are correct in your latest config.
I checked groundings, wire pinches, took off the fairing and looked for anything amiss, took off seat and looked for anything squished or loose etc...nothing. I took switch apart and all looks fine and works smoothly. I connected the old blinkers and that didn't change anything either; although it did tell me that the problem is not in the new units themselves. I then disconnected the flasher unit (after checking for rubbing wires etc..nothing) and connected up the fronts again and this is what I get.....
Key on, both fronts light with the dim filament..correct...hit left turn switch and left side running light goes off, as does left idiot light. Hit right switch and right goes off as does right right idiot light. That all sounds fine except that when key is on and no directionals are switched...both idiots are on. Maybe I should say all three, as I'm feeling like one myself today.
Could someone run out to their garage and turn the key on and tell me if your directional idiot lights are lit?
This is getting to be a drag.....

The problem is that the dash turn signal indicators stay on with the running lights if the relay is unhooked? When you plug it back in does it go back to last nights problem?

On page 19-21 of the manual it shows a chart for checking continuity on the handle bar switch. That should be your next step I think.

With everything hooked up of course.

I have the manual so I'll check that tomorrow...thanks...
Thinking theoretically...if the rears are blinking in unison, there is a short in the switch, the flasher unit, or the dash. I checked the wires in the dash and the switch looked fine...maybe it's as simple as the flasher unit. I hope it's as simple as that.

Hmm....help me here...looking at the manual....told to check continuity between color coded wires as follows:
then the diagram shows various configurations.....
I am to check that current flows between the "o"s where there is a line? For example...turn signal left activated, orange and green should be connected? etc

Disconnect the connector...check for continuity bewteen the connected "o's" on the picture. You are checking the connector itself, just stick the lead of the multimeter into the plug until it hits metal, so the position of the switch doesn't matter.

Hi Redman,
I went and checked the wiring on my bike and here’s what’s working on mine.

Left side bike Left side blinker
Orange/white black
Orange red
Green black/white

Right side bike Right side blinker
Blue/white black
Blue red
Green black/white

This would explain the dash lights being on all the time, except when the turn signal switch was on. Hope this helps.

Thanks Greg...I'll try that later today as nothing else has worked so far. Haven't found my multimeter yet either...grrr.....
Just did a very very careful look at the schematic. You are right Greg. From the stock loom the LtB is blink, LtB/W is running, G is common earth. Blk/Br goes into switch body with juice and supplies both running lights when no directionals are lit. Power is cut to R runner when R blinker is blinking so it blinks OFF and ON instead of brighter and dimmer. Same for left. If my rears were both blinking then somehow I shunted the running lights lead to the flasher unit and not the blinker leads. .....I think.....

It looks like black/white is ground and not black, thus the weirdness.

FINALLYYYY!!!!!!!!!!! I must have tried every other combo.
Here it is...and everythhing works as it should.
Left side:
O/W to BLK
O to Red
G to B/W

Right side:
LtB to Red
LtB/W to Blk
G to B/W

Sheesh!
Maybe this should go to the Knowledge Base???