Adjusting carb needles question
Can you get into the diaphragm cover on the front carb to adjust the needle position without taking the carb out? I forgot if I had access when my tank was off.
thanks. |
Originally Posted by Matt_Hawk
(Post 318550)
Can you get into the diaphragm cover on the front carb to adjust the needle position without taking the carb out? I forgot if I had access when my tank was off.
thanks. But no... You'll have a devil of a time getting it back in and will likely damage/mis-align your diaphragm. I don't know if anyone else has been able to successfully do it but I wasn't, but then again I didn't spend all that much time trying. It takes like 5 minutes to get the carbs off once you've got the airbox off. My recommendation is a 1/4 x 8 extension with an 8mm bit on the end. It makes it a breeze to get to the clamps. You probably don't even have to disconnect the water lines, just to get the carbs where you can rotate them to have a good working plane. |
True..thanks!
I've noticed when the air is cold (48F) and I am at sea level, the bike is on the edge of being lean. However, in warmer (80F) air or a couple thousand feet higher, the bike is perfect. Gotta love carbs. |
Originally Posted by Matt_Hawk
(Post 318597)
True..thanks!
I've noticed when the air is cold (48F) and I am at sea level, the bike is on the edge of being lean. However, in warmer (80F) air or a couple thousand feet higher, the bike is perfect. Gotta love carbs. That is more an A/F screw range. You're jetting necessities shouldn't be changing that radically with only a few thousand feet or even 30 degrees. I think the spec is 1/2 in for altitude, so you'd just wanna go with 1/2 out if you're running lean. And which one do you ride more frequently in? I set mine for my commute at a little rich at sea level, then when I hit the twisties I just knock it back 1/2-1/4 of a turn pending on temp... ect. It's been tempting me to buy a flo-commander having to adjust it as much as I do! |
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