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-   -   98 vtr 996 r/r help (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/technical-discussion-28/98-vtr-996-r-r-help-23725/)

pugs250 09-07-2010 04:32 PM

98 vtr 996 r/r help
 
Hello, on the way home from work i smelled somthing burning. Found out it was the regulator rectifier. Got a new cheepy on ebay and that burned out quickley. Then i got a new finned one off ebay and it works for a few weeks but on the way home i smelled it again. Turns out it was the red wire on the plug to the r/r. So i cut away the burnt part of the wire and put a new connection on it and that kinda works,... Now it barley charges and cuts out consistantly at around 5-6k rpm's. Maby the wire has lost conductivity??? i dont know.. so i bought a used wiring harness and am about to install it.

Now im just wondering if this is some bigger problem that is causing it to burn out in the first place. i did alittle research online and found a simaler case and he said it was his cluster that was drawing to much power and thats the cause of his r/r's going out he got a new one and has had no problem sence.

After probing lightly at the local shops for possible pricing on chasing down electrical problems ive decided to try to fix it myself so i guess im just asking for any input or maby someone has had similar experience??


Thanks for any input.

RWhisen 09-07-2010 04:40 PM

Check your ground wire that comes off of it. Make sure the connectors are clean especially where the ground attaches to the frame.

nath981 09-08-2010 04:42 AM

welcome aboard brother. These types of electrical issues can be frustrating to those of us who are challenged in this area. It seems that if you found a bad wire, you could have used the wiring diagram to trace the route and find out where it came from and then merely tested the function. However you chose to replace everything so you'll be having lots of fun.

it seems like checking basic operation is essential to protecting the R/R. Electrically retarded dummies like me would check the battery(have it load tested) to make sure it's strong relative to cold cranking as well as holding charge; and then hook up a tester on the battery posts when idling to determine whether the stator is charging at idle and how much when running at 2500+ rpms.

According to previous threads, I may have fried an good R/R by hooking up the battery in the traditional way, i.e., installing pos terminal first. One forum member with acclaimed electrical expertise recommended doing the opposite, i.e., installing the ground first, then the positive lastly, making certain to isolate both connectors from either touching anything other than the posts.



good luck on your electrical journey.


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