what do you think of these
 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Honda-Brake-Disc...QQcmdZViewItem

I like the look of them and if they work no better than stock, at least they look good. As long as they don't fall off!

They do look pretty cool... would be interested in how they work, better or the same as stock.

Nice, Braking knock offs for ALOT less, even with the shipping

Yup. A lot of that coming out of China/HK lately. As long as the metal quality is good then you shouldn't have any issues with them.

HOLD THE PRESSES!!! I'm not exactly sure what the story is but here is MY exp. I bought the rear "wave" disc for my VTR from this same company. I thought Hey, 50bux and it's much lighter and blingy so...
I got it, put it on, and basically have NO rear brake now. I have the same pads in there as before. I figured it was just a matter of breaking in the surface...and it may still be, BUT, I have ridden the freeway for miles with the rear brake applied, down long hills to a stop (well, trying to stop) using only the rear brake, thinking to break it in. It now has a couple of semi polished rings on each side...not even across the whole swept area...still no braking at all. I can stand on the pedal/lever and can feel a vague slowing but if these were on the front...and the same friction...I'd be dead now.
I don't know what material they used to make these but......something is wrong here. Any ideas.......

Personally... I wouldn't trust 'em... they look cheap. I really haven't had much luck with Chinese knock off's.

Please don't get me wrong here, as I am sure you know what you are doing. How did you prep the rotor before you put it on and did you use new pads and what kind?

I would imagine that ANYTHING carbon steel shipped from hong kong was covered in cosmoline(I think I spelled that right). If you don't use a lot of break parts cleaner and get down in the hatch real good, it will booger up your pads and glaze them. I also will take a wire wheel to the rotor as well to give it some further scuff for break in.
I think I will try to contact some of the hundreds of others who have bought at least the rear rotor from them to see what they thought. I am sure the pos feedback was left before install.

I'm in agreeance with Josh.

Please tell us what you did before putting the rotor on? The caliper, did you just compress the piston, or did you open the bleeder? If you opened the bleeder, did you bleed the rear brakes?

More info is need.

A wirewheel is a little extreme, but the point is there, the rotor needs to be cleaned and surfaced. Most people don't know that this is done when you have your rotors turned.

Personally, pads are not that expensive that i can't put a new set on with a new rotor, that way they break in to each other.

For the price, I am tempted to get this.

I had a moron with an F2 come in with no rear brake. He had cross threaded his caliper slider bolt and it caused his caliper to tip and pull the pads back past the volume of the master. He couldn't get full clamp, no braking. I suggest checking that out, as well as the brake prep, like the last two dudes said.

Thanks for the replies guys.....I HOPE this is simply my error as I too would love a set of affordable front waves too. The rear caliper I simply spread the pistons a mm and reinstalled the wheel. Then I bled the mc until clean fluid came thru. Pedal is not spongy at all. The rotor felt dry and uncoated so I swapped it in there and that's that. I will pu a pair of new pads and clean the hell out of everything before install and if this thread's still alive, report back.
You guys must be right about some coating as this is too strange to believe...that the new rotor material would have such little friction.
Just wanted to throw this info out there before anyone spent a lot of money.......

I hope so too Redman. Don't be afraid to scuff the surface of the rotor. Hopefully you didn't waste your money.

I emailed about 5 of the previous buyers of similar wave rotors from this seller. We'll see if any answer.

They kind of look like the EBC's that I have on my bike.

Dennis

I'm curious to see what the other buyers come back with... the price is right anyhow....

I also emailed the seller asking 2 questions. Are they lighter than stock rotors and are the centers aluminum or steel.

Seller responded in about 2 hours stating yes they are lighter than stock and the centers are steel, not aluminum.

This puzzles me as to how they could possibly be lighter. I assume my stock front rotors have alum centers since a magnet does not stick. The EBC's and other wave rotors costing 200+ EACH have forged alum centers.

Guarantee you he misunderstood. Carriers must be alloy. I also wrote him asking if he has a fit for the 954 330mm discs (no) and his reply let me know English is not his first language.
"Spose I could be wrong........doubt it.

I looked at a lot of his past auction sales and it appears his inventory turns pretty quick and he doesn't always have the same stuff.

I hope they are alum carriers. I think I will buy them or at least just the fronts. I rarely use the rear anyway. I just like the way they look and I am due for new pads.

I think you should think about what your buying! Typicaly you get what you pay for. If its to good to be true it usually is. A quality front rotor cost $300.00 or there about. I got iron rotors from brake tech for I think around $550.00 for the pair. Good luck

Well, yesterday I took out the rear pads and renewed their surfaces thoroughly on my belt sander with #80 grit. The I cleaned the rear disc with a rag and brake cleaner. Then I hand sanded the swept area on the disc on both sides with emery paper to remove all polished areas. Went for a ride........a minor but noticeable improvement but still minimal braking. I could not possibly lock the rear wheel...not even close. I'll give it some break in time and see if it improves. I know that different steels have different coefficients of friction.....iron being the best and I believe, SS, the worst. I don't want MUCH braking on the rear but......if this doesn't improve I'll try some high friction pads. If that doesn't work, I may as well remove all the rear braking gear for a weight savings 'cuz it ain't braking nuthin'. Good thing I saved the stocker!

hmm, my fronts need replaceing, a little head shake at higher speeds when brakeing. but the rotors are high $$$

it was my understanding that you HAVE to use sintered pads when using wavey discs

do as you did and stick some sintered pads in

roughing them up with 80 is great

Any more feedback on these rotors? Anyone actually purchase them and install them?

Thanks.

Erik

I bought a set and installed them Saturday. It's a complete set, front and rear, delivered from Hong Kong for $250. I mounted up the EBC HH pads and DAMN!! I don't have the...gumption to do a stoppie, but there's no doubt that these rotors/pads could. I was using stock pads before, so I don't know how much of the difference is rotors and how much is pads, but the combination is pretty sweet. And they look awesome. The only complaint I might have is that the anodizing on the carrier isn't quite as dark as I would like. But the fit is great, they are straight, and the stopping power is remarkable. So if anyone is considering these rotors, I've run two tanks of gas through so far I'm impressed. Here's the seller's store address: http://stores.ebay.com/VillaMotor