Super Blink's Super Build Thread....
 

Alright guys, this is going to be an on going thread that in about a year and half or so will document my complete rebuild, from rear tire to front tire. The build will coincide with the courses that I'm taking in school and the projects will be based on what I'm learning in class so that I can make the most of my education. The really really cool thing is that once I'm done with my courses and would be hired at a dealership to be certified as a technician, I'll have an extremely SICK hawk to ride :D

That said I'm going to be documenting as many of the steps as possible for you guys with photographs. At this point I don't have a camera so that part is going to have to wait until I get my next check which will be in a couple days.

I'd like to invite any and everyone to give there input in terms of the parts and ultimate outcome of the bike. I do have a line of thought developing in terms of what I'm looking for. Right now my two classes are Intro to moto technology and Intro to general mait. The first class is mainly tools, safety and very general stuff like that. In the other class which is the more advanced of the two, the syllybus reads like this;

Carbs (circuits, cleaning, rebuilding,ect...)
EFI
Luubrication System
Cooling System
Wheels and Tires
Brake Operation, design, and system service
Unified braking system, linked system, anti-lock system
Frame design, steering geomtry, frame and suspension inspection and svc
Front Suspension
Rear Suspension
Exhaust Systems and emissions control
Presentations
Finish lab projects
Clean Up

So, with that in mind my first thing is a complete carb tear down and cleaning. Since they don't make rebuild kits, I'm going to go through the local dealership and get new o-rings and jets and whatnot. Pretty much just put together a stock rebuild kit on my own. The carbs are currently in almost all pieces as I didn't have time to completely disassemble them this last class. I'll finish the deconstruction and cleaning this class and hopefully get to the point of rebuilding them, or start to.

Next, my instructor informs me that I'm one of the lucky one's and I caught the bike before the cam chain tensioner went. We both heard the noise and he advised that if it got worse to stop and leave it at the shop. The next day it stayed the same, but two days after he and I had talked it got worse so I dropped it off. This past sat at class we started it up before I began the crab extraction and he laughed and said I was very lucky indeed. So, the first part I'm ordering is the APE manual CCT kit that comes with gaskets from ebay.

Now, we have to keep in mind that next semester I'll be ordering a second motor to completely build from the top to the bottom. Everyone here will have their say on the parts that go into the new heart of the Blink mobile when it comes time. So let's start thinking about how much power we can reliably get out of a completely custom, built from the case up, mmmkay?

The second major focus for this semester however, is going to be a front end swap. I haven't decided whether we're going to do a street fighter or keep the fairings yet. But my gut says that if I go with the street fighter route I can get more trick parts for the same money vs buying trick front end parts plus a whole new fairing set, stays and what not.

The suspension is going to be a 954rr fork swap with upper and lower 054rr triple trees, 954rr calipers, rotors, and wheel,ect....

I'd also like to incorporate a Xenon HID kit whether I go the street fighter or fully faired route so ideas are welcome and I encourage you to post them!

that said I'm beat for the night, thanks for the help guys, can't wait for the year .5 to pass and see the ultimate hawk when she's done!

Blink

congrats on your new career and if you read well, you'll be able to take some forum info to class and do some educating yourself. For example, searching this forum will teach you how to make manual CCTs out of your oem ccts for the costs of a couple bolts instead of spending 100+. Can you dig it?


https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=22711

Awesome- that stuff looks way exciting!

Streetfighter vs. faired? Go with what you want in the final bike- you can really trick out a fully faired bike without extra cost or extra effort than a streetfighter. A streetfighter will cause it's own set of challenges (gauges, light mounting, etc...).

HID Xenon kit? I'd go with a retrofit rather than a bulb/ballast replacement (this may be what you're talking about)...

These guys are absolutely awesome to deal with:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/

Can dig it indeed, but then I wouldn't get the nice anodized red parts :eek:

This is what I was thinking... I really like the yellow, think it will fit well with the scheme of the bike which is going to be black, white and gold...

http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme-Dig...ts-p/xt-3k.htm

You can just get the stock bodies anodized any color you want. :D

Yellow is better for visibility as well (it doesn't hurt your night vision as much).

I liked TRS b/c they were able to send me a one light setup with everything I needed for like $160 shipped. Those are two light setups, and you'll probably be able to sell the extra projector/harness if you go that route, but that was a hassle I didn't really want to deal with.

You also probably want to make sure to get the Bi-Xenon kits as they have hi/low beam. Most of those are an either/or situation, which doesn't work with the 'Hawk's one projector setup.

Edit: They didn't have the one-setup listed on their website, but they do it all the time. Just e-mail them, you'll get in contact with a guy named Matt, and he can probably even pull up my file so he knows which plug to use when dealing with the Superhawk. You pick your color of light and have a choice between two projector types and they send you everything in a cool little box. Haha, now that I read this, I'm not affiliated with them in any way, just they made it pretty easy for me not being an electrical systems guy...

The more I think about it I really like the faired bike, except one thingh bugs me, the freaking tank on this bike. Is the VFR tank the only swapable tank that we know of guys? I really really like the shape of the RC51 tank, tall and wide and looks like it would sit well on the frame. I'm also going to be swapping out the subframe and read plactics ect. I think the tallness and width of the Rc's tank would look super sick with a very skinny tail section like the 08 1krr which I'm looking into putting on the Hawk. Same thing for that R6 tail (09?) that's really tight and pointy, think it would look cool with a larger tank upfront. Either street fighter or faired those two elements I think need to be present.

Next semester will be powertrain and engine class plus one or two other classes, but I'll be needing a second engine as once I'm done with this classes modifications I want to be able to ride it! It's going to be in the shop now for the next three months but it'll come out pretty seriously modified.

So here's a starting list...
1. Ape CCT's
2. Cleaning and rebuilding of carbs including new jets, orings, pilot screws, ect...
3. Replace all cooling system hoses with colored or heavier duty (possibly that metal mesh you see on funny cars with anodized fittings??? Ideas here people! Let's really put our head together to come up with some kick ass ideas!) hoses and clamps... maybe that HRC radiator setup I saw for the RC51 would be able to be modified to fit my hawk. I'll be building a bored out beast next semester so the extra cooling capacity wouldn't be a waste of money in my opinion...
4. Begin assembling front end parts. I'm pretty much set on the 954rr as the donor. So I'll need;

upper and lower triples - Upper $100ish - Lower $200 ish
new allballs bearings - $40ish
L & R forks - $200 - $265
Pair of Calipers (these will be one of the first parts purchased as week 8 is when we get into that and I'll be able to rebuild the one's I buy for my swap unless I'm able to find a completely intact front end in my time frame I'll need to piece it together)
Rotors (thinking aftermarket, ebay has some pretty sick ones for about 250 a pair, not horrible) $250 Aftermarket - $150ish used stock
Wheel - Here I have to decide whether I want to go OEM 954rr or something aftermarket. I'm sure if i can find a good deal on a front wheel for the 954 I'll take it, but budget might force me to go with an OEM wheel. - $200?
Bearings - I'll but new ones they're like $25
Front Axle - new one - $25
New brake pads - $38
Brake Lines - I'm hoping to reuse the steel braided lines currently on the bike
Master Cylinder - New, thinking the entry level Brembo if I can afford it... Roughly $322

I'm building the list, I'll continue to add to it, but please if you see something missing make a post, I've gotta have this list complete by the end of the day today...

Right, that would be the case if I went with a stock headlight shroud and kept the fairings. I think I could also do a custom dual light set up maybe using sharkskins race plastics with no holes cut and cut my own holes and then just do the dual install that way... I'm not too worried about high and low beams either, I'm all for lighting up the road in front of me as much as possible, the brighter the better as far as I'm concerned. You can't really push it at night any how unless you're not caring about dying.... IDK, let's put our heads together and see what we can come up with in terms of using two projectors with and without fairings. I'm assuming without fairings I'll need to fabricate some sort of housing for the lights?

It's all personal preference, but I've never really liked other bike's tails matched with the Superhawk's fairings... The front plastics are so unique, curvy, "dated" (I say classic, like a Porsche) that the angular tails always look like the wrong Leggo sets were paired up. But I don't even have fairings, so don't listen to me... :)

Tank option: http://www.eti-fuelcel.com/VTR.HTML , only $1200!

:eek: "
$1195.00 (standard cap included)"


At least they include the cap! Lmfao!



But what about the RC51 tank. Still very classic indeed, but it's got the height that I like. When I lay down on the current tank it feels like it's not there, it's ridiculous. And after next semester when I build an incredibly beefy fire breather of a motor to put into it, I'll get what 50 miles to the tank if I'm out having fun, I won't even be able to get to the twisties!

Here's another topic we need to address, the Master cylinder. Is there an option that's aftermarket, high quality but not brembo? There's got to be another manufacturer that makes high performance m/c's right? Where are they? Also, can't seem to find out if I do end up going the brembo m/c route, can I use Pazzo levers or those knock of pazzo's?

Two projectors is totally viable:

http://www.superstreetbike.com/featu.../photo_06.html

You can stack the projectors as well, which would look cool on the sharkskins front...

If you do two lights, you can set it up that one aimed low for that and one aimed high for nighttime riding... it does make a difference and with HID lights you don't want to be blinding traffic for everyone's safety!

Tail Sections and race upper pics
 

So here's the tail i really like and one other one that might work but definitely isn't even a close second... The 081krr really just does it for me, shows off the rear end of the bike really well and if I eventually do a RC51 or VFR swing arm swap showing it off with a tiny sexy tail I think will really set the bike off...

Well it seems like you're really at the conceptual stage, and if you're pulling a tail up that much it could be cool to do a VFR single sided swing arm... Adds no performance, but real nice looking and not impossible to pull off.

Indeed at the conceptual stage for the rear end. For the fork swap and brake upgrades I'm in the starting to buy parts stage... I'm trying to line it up with the syllabus ass much as possible even though the instructor is flexible. For example, I'll buy my calipers so that in week 8 when we're studying brake systems I'll be able to take apart and rebuild my calipers which will then be included in the weeks 10 and 11 where we study suspensions and steering geometry...

Here's a couple quick pages I pulled out of the service manuals, just from looks without measuring i think you're right not impossible at all. probably a little custom fabrication and the 081krr tail is on the Hawk...

Don't know if you've found this yet:
http://www.customfighters.com/forums...ad.php?t=19158

Lot to chew on there...

Damn dude... i see a lot of stuff that I don't really like there.... I think I'm going fully faired. Fuck the world!

Narrowing it down already... now you don't have to deal with lighting mounts, new gauges, exposed radiators, etc.

Fuel Tanks....
 

Doesn't appear that the RC51 would be too good an option looking at the undersides of them both.....

Indeed indeed... I do need though what I think is called a fairing stay? What's the mounting point for the fairing by the windscreen? I'm going to look it up in my manual, but ask you too, what the hell....

I'm also looking at the list of parts for the front end and feel like I'm missing some things and the 954rr manual doesn't seem to list the part name when showing the exploded view to show how it fits together so I'm at som whate of a oss ss to where to go for that information. I just basically need a complete list of the parts I'll need for the 954rr front end to drop into the hawk... Wait, what about that ayers site? Gonna check that out now....

Ron Ayers site works, also any OEM bike parts site will work (bikebandit, hollisterhonda, etc...) They name the parts and you get to see EVERY piece that goes into the bike, not just the mechanic's stuff that comes in the manual. A Haynes manual is sometimes handy too, it has different pictures and color wiring diagrams which is a huge stress saver...

More than likely, you can get a series of the parts you need with one purchase:

forks/axle
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...s#ht_698wt_939

wheel/rotors:
_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e60c8a72eQQitemZ13047 2781614QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_5 00wt_956

Don't get that wheel, it's got a nasty ding in it, I'm just showing that you can often get setups if you check e-bay regularly. If you do it right, you can get everything 929/954rr from the steering stem down, including 929/954rr allballs bearings, and all of your compatibility issues are solved. You will need handlebar risers if you're using the fairings though.

BTW that first tail is pretty sweet, I like it...

Yup, I've been watching ebay like a hawk and now I've got a little money to work with. There's a nicer set than that for I think 265, and all the related parts. The Lower triple is going to be expensive, like 200ish.... How does that Best offer function work. I haven't used ebay in years and am wondering how works. I mean if I make an offer on a listing that's posted @ say $250 and I offer $100 does that seller then like have the ability to block me because I made a douche bag offer? Basically I guess the question is what's the strategy behind getting the parts you want from ebay using the "best offer" function on the site?


And thanks on the tail.... I really think it'll look sick as shit with a higher and wider tank of some sort...I might have to basically take a stock hawk airbox and cut everything off from the bottom plate up and the take the same part of the airbox from tank donoror and construct a new airbox/tank combination that suits my tastes and the the hawks planned much increased fuel comsumtion.

Alsom, does anyone know if it's possible to have someone hard weld and custom make stage 2 cams?

Yes but you will never find a crankshaft that will be able to handle the load, so why bother.

A nice "Stage 1" motor is all you will ever need in a street bike. This is not the bike to try and go horsepower crazy with. There is no real point to it and you can't get the parts you need anymore anyways. ;)

Alright, first parts in... APE CCT's... the stupid $600 too good to be true deal was alas, too good to be true, for me anyhow. I've come up with a second place deal that's no where near as sweet (I doubt there ever will be again) but it gets the front end done at a reasonable price. Found, forks, triples, calipers, rotors, bearings, front wheel, full ignition set (sell this part off), and a 954rr cluster (sell this too) for $450 shipped. The stuff is in pretty good shape, check it out.

That's still a pretty damn good deal if everything's straight. You will need to get aftermarket clipons that can adjust to clear your fairings anyway.

BTW the best offer function works just like you'd think it would. You just offer the seller a price, and they either sell it to you or don't. I've never had one block me, but never really used it to haggle either (as in, I always offered what I would give, then if it was rejected I moved on).

Right on... Yeah, I'm hoping it's all straight but the guy seems to be a decent guy so we'll see, the internet sure does attract a fair number of douche bags. At least with paypal if he doesn't send parts or something I get my money back, right? I'll have to read up on that... Anyway, was reading in the carb set up thread and came across this picture of yours... This is what I don't see happening on my slide? Never stuck a screw driver in there, but there doesn't seem to be a screw head in there when I look. Unfortunately, the bike's at school which is locked right now so I can't go see if I too can do this... Buit anyway, how's the bike run with it set up like it is in that thread where you did the pictorial?

That screw came from the screw holding the cover on. The screw is in there just so that I can pull the center piece out of the slide. I screwed it in, then pinched it with my thumb and finger and wiggled it out. I take the screw back out when I assemble the carbs. I'm pretty sure that that is the whole reason for the threads. It's so that you can take the needle out...

I'll be damned if there's nothing but a hole in both my slides, no screw anywhere. I take the three or four off the top of the diaphragm cover (black cover) and there's the diaphragm seated into a groove. Pop the diaphragm out of the groove and the whole slide comes out. In the middle of the slide where you're pulling a screw from is just a hole for me. Or is it a hole with a screw at the bottom of it? Sure hope so or i've got a messed up set of carbs.

There is a threaded hole, correct. Then you take one of the 4mm screws that held the top cover one and thread it into that hole. Run the screw in until it bottoms with your fingers ( or until you feel resistance with your fingers) and then pull up on the screw you just installed. Then remove the screw before you reinstall the needle holder. Also put a little spit on the o-ring on the needle holder before you put it back in (with the needle installed, of course) and push it in until you feel it "seat" when it is all the way in.