steering damper
 

So, I've wanted a damper on my SH for a while, and it is a track requirement in certain places so...

The damper itself is off my Buell, it was an aftermarket item that came with the bike so I do not know who makes it. The fork clamp I had made locally, it's a 41.5mm ID if anyone is wondering, and is a copy of the for clamp for the Buell. The rear mount is easy peasy, you just need a longer bolt for the rear radiator bracket. The only issue is that the front brake hose is kind of in the way, but manageable, and I need to make a sleeve for the (M6?) radiator bolt to fit in the (8mm?) hole on the linkage end. It turns lock to lock with no binding or rubbing.

AV

Ok, so first ride was today with the damper and I have to say that at speed it is incredibly stable. The nose feels very planted and steering input is basically unchanged. Low speed takes a little getting used to and feels almost like having a binding steering head bearing. A slightly softer setting would likely be perfect if it were possible on my model damper. Fwiw, if you install a damper you should probably get an adjustable one.

AV

Isn't the dampening adjustable by turning the gold knob on the end of the shaft? Mine is.

Unfortunately no, it's not adjustable. Oh well.

Yup, exactly why I prefer a Olin's or Scott's style damper when i use them
Have a few on different bikes, but never felt the need to install on on the VTR. Suppose I should just to see if I like the difference.
Would need to buy or machine a mount.....have a spare Scotts ....hmmmm, Oh great another item added to the list...
Thanks, Thanks a lot....LOL

Erik, if you need any measurements, lmk. Mine was a welcome addition. I never got stupid with geometry, usually only 5-6mm on the fork tubes (settled on 3mm), but my Hawk had a high speed instability, especially cresting hills where the front would lift a little. Damper fixed it perfectly. And the ease of adjustment is a huge plus. In town and @ slow speed I just reduce it to minimum.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sup...826381e50e.jpg

Second ride today was much longer and I was able to focus on how things have changed. I will say that it never crossed my mind to put a damper on the hawk until I found my old one in the tool box. Now that it is on, despite the low speed strangeness, I really appreciate how it feels glued to whatever line I pick regardless of how stupid. The straight line stability is also very much appreciated as well as the reduced twitchiness over crappy New England roads. All in all, 9 out of 10, a Scotts would probably be a 10/10.

AV

My Hawk came with a damper similar to the one at the beginning of this thread. It's adjustable and at the moment set to stiff.
Ive never had a bike with a damper so I really can't say what the difference is with or without.
But the only thing I do not like is how the damper adjusting arm sticks out past the body. 🤨🧐

Ive been looking at the Scott damper as it's easy to get to and have heard about them from years ago reading all the cycle magazines.

Im still learning about the geometry of the bike and 3-6mm seem to be the sweet spot.
How do you go about setting this 3-6mm setting in the forks?
Pardon the ignorance but I'm quite new to this bike and also read about this in other threads.
Thanks all. 👍🙏🏽

So if you loosen the upper and lower triple trees, the forks will slide up or down. Best to have the bike on a rear stand and maybe a jack with a small piece of wood under the oil sump to support weight. The very thin metal ring on the top of the forks stops them from falling out. That is the starting point of adjustments. Very slowly lower the jack until you get the width of a 2-6mm gap between that metal ring and the top of the upper triple tree. I use an Allen wrench for measuring. Retorque the clamps to proper spec to prevent damage/breakage. Another common method is to install a spacer to raise the rear. Effectively producing the results of changing rake and trail.

Thank you for the tip on lowering the forks properly.👍
Ill make this adjustment when I install the Coerce brace in the very near future. 🤟
I've still so much to learn. 😎

You caught me with steering damper, "it is a track requirement in certain places" . I have raced all over the US, Daytona to Laguna to Road America and so on. I don't recall ever seeing this as a track requirement. Please elaborate.

" 7.B.17 Steering Damper: Required in all classes over 125 MPH. 7.B.18 Seat and Saddle: No part of the seat or saddle or anything to the rear of these may be more than 42 in. above the ground when the motorcycle is loaded. Exception: OEM configuration in Production classes only unless specifically permitted by class rules. 7.B.19 Chassis & Steering: All motorcycle entries must use handlebars for steering control. All moving parts of the steering system shall operate freely without excessive play. It is recommended that all steering system components be visually inspected on a frequent basis. Fork stops must stop fork travel before the hands touch the tank or fairing. If a hydraulic steering damper is used, the rod shaft (or piston) may not be used for the fork stops. 77 A functional shock absorber is required for each sprung wheel, except for OE girders." (https://www.ectamile.com/wp-content/...ycle-Rules.pdf)

I guess you haven't been to this one...


AV

Sorry, I was thinking of road race tracks not straight line speed record stuff. I have only done one of those at Bonneville during BUB runs on my vintage CB750SOHC...got 118mph with my gearing for Miller Motorsports...yahoo!

Thanks l will do the same. Does the end of the damper poke out very far on full right lock?

Barely....not enough to matter. I usually don't remember it's even there.

AV