Sick of buying a battery...
 

i am sick and tired of buying a new battery every 3 years. Does anyone know of a battery that will hold up to the heat and vibrations of the bike?

This is kind of funny. I will buy a new set of tires every month ($250), but I get pissed about buying a new battery every 3 years($75).

In my experience I would suggest sticking with an OE (original equipment) battery which here in the UK is a 'Yuasa'. If that's what you are already doing then I can't help you.

After market batteries are not designed to last very long, they may be cheaper in the first place, but work out more expensive in the long run due to a shorter life.

Chris.

If you're getting three years out of a Parts Store battery, you doing great. Yuasa's are the best. I just bought a new one at $119 including local tax for the Superhawk.

Yuasa + battery tender.

I use a battery tender every year and I still have the original battery. The bike is an '03. If the bike is going to sit longer than 2 weeks the tender goes on.

Yuasa is definitely the way to go. I leave my battery tender plugged in whenever the bike is parked. They are designed to go into a "float mode" when the battery reaches its peak charge, and will not overcharge a battery. You can't do that with a conventional battery charger.

You get a set of tires every month? I hope you're not burning up good, soft sport tires running back and forth on I-40!

yuasa all the way

+1 on the battery tender, or just charge once a week for 2-4 hours at 2amps to keep the charge up during periods of non-op.

A battery can only take so many cycles of going dead then being recharged.

My old BMW R100RS would go through batteries every 2 years until I got a garage and could use a charger. I don't know how many times I bump started it rolling down the hill from my old condo.

That is true but a float charger wont let it ever get dead. Listen to VFR79 and leave it on a float charge whenever parked. You can put a quick release plug on the battery. You'll be glad you did.

Try an AGM (absorbed galss matting) type battery such as the US made Deka. They are popular here in Australia for the VTR.

http://http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/....aspx?pageid=4

If you're using a YTZ12S try switching to a YTX12BS. The YTX's tend to last longer as they are no filled with acid until you buy it. The YTZ's sit on the shelf with thier "gel acid" wasting away. Although, the YTZ in my bike is o.e.m. from 2005... I imagine it's been around for at least 4 years, pretty good if you ask me. ;)

Yuasa, plus tender if not riding for more then 3 weeks (I'm gone a lot, 1 week, 3 weeks, 15 months, ect ect battery tenders same me a lot of $$$)

My 98 is on it's OE battery, it's getting tired though and will be replaced with another Yuasa

Yuasa and Battery Tender FTW!

Yep, me too. My 98 still has the original battery (that's 11 years old by the way). Mine is also having trouble starting when hot, like if it dies at a stoplight, but otherwise is ok. I bought a new one about a month ago but I'm holding out until the last minute. I might stick it in there before Mid-Ohio. It would be really embarrassing to not be able to start on pit road.

Plus it's cheaper:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Batte...0247QQtcZphoto

I get about 3 maybe 4 years on a sealed yuasa battery w/battery tender connected 24/7.

I just put an ODDESSY battery in my GS1150 adv. and everyone on the BMW forum/locals claim 6+ years.

When this yuasa dies I will look into an ODDESSY replacement. BTW the ODDESSY for my GS was $140 delivered which would be worth it if it last as long as I hear.

You can get a megaboost battery at cyclegear and never "buy" a new one again! Lifetime replacement warranty for about $75.

3 years ????
 

i'll be doing good to get 3 months strong starting.
long story short , my batt is losing fluid/acid.
i had 2 batts do this.
bike goes dead , check the batt and the acid is 100% gone. wtf, guys help ..
bought at advance BTW.

If the case doesn't have a slow leak, which would be evidenced by corrosion damage under battery, you must be overcharging. Also the sulfur never leaves the battery. Just add water, then after you get it running check charging voltage across the battery terminals. If its over 15 volts the voltage regulator isn't doing its job, and the water is boiling out of the battery.

Battery electrolyte is H2SO4 + H2O.

If your buying a see-through type battery that you can see the level marks on, your buying the wrong battery. The proper battery has a acid pack that once you fill the battery, you use the cap to seal the battery. You should not be able to remove the cap to add anything.
The acid should "gel" in the battery and not leak out.

Hey guys.. how 'bout a name brand for a reliable battery tender.. I look on ebay and see deltran..

+1 I bet your R/R is bad.

Deltran is a well recognized name and widely available. Yuasa also has their own battery tender. Question is, does Deltran make it for Yuasa and vice versa?

I can remove the caps to see inside the case. it's not a see-through batt case, and i had to add the acid when i bought it. WHEN I TIP THE BATT IT'S EMPTY. SHOULD I SEE THIS "gel" or not.

i checked my volt output it was. 12.7 @ 5k rpm's the batt was 12.7 not running.

Battery voltage when not running means you are not charging. On a car 99% of the time...replace the alternator, which has a built in regulator. But on a bike, from my experience and what's been stated on the forum, its more likely the voltage regulator/rectifier.
However, with a dry battery a charging voltage test would not be accurate.
Take care of the battery first.

I've never even looked at the battery on my '05. And since you've relaced yours, if you can see the "plates" and they are dry the water has probably boiled out of the electrolyte.

Is this a battery with a vent tube? If it is our battery is already leaned over and then if you do any wheelies it just leaks out of the vent tube. Buy a sealed maintenance free battery.

i'm taking your advice VTRsurfer and superhawkk22

i know it's not chrgn w/o running , thanks.

i'll fix the batt first [add water - chrg] then chk r/r output.

I don't do wheelies, no vent tube on batt.

where's a good place to buy a batt.? should i have to.?

Great service and product:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Batte...0247QQtcZphoto[/QUOTE]

Got mine in about 3 days plus I didn't have to pay tax or battery disposal fee (each state may vary). I actually paid more for a no-name unit from Autozone when the taxes and fees were added in.

The manual states you have to have a fully charged, good battery to test the r/r. 12.7v at 5k is below spec. If your battery is faulty then the voltage from the r/r could very well be correct but the battery is causing the bad (low) reading. Borrow a known good one if you can. It doesn't have to fit in the bike, just hook it up.

I'm thinking your r/r was overcharging, boiled the battery, and now has completely failed. The 12.7v reading at rest and running is simply the battery voltage.

A Suzuki Service Tech came to our shop and told me he(Suzuki) would warranty any new sealed type battery if I followed his prep instructions. He then told me the following:
Place the new battery on a table with the acid pack on top of the battery.
Leave it there for one hour after all the acid has been drained from the acid pack.
After the hour is up, he said you should be able to turn the battery upside down without anything dripping out(gel). This hour would have provided the acid to gel up and the cells of the battery to warm from the chemical reaction of the acid, thus producing a charge within the battery. Now put the black caps(rail) on it. Push down onn them with your fingers. Do not hit them with a hammer. This could brake or loosen the coils. He then stated that you should not put the battery on a charger for 24 hours. This would give the battery time to cool down. He even stated if you left the battery on the shelf for a year, it would still be good as long as you put it on a 1.5-2 amp charge for 5-10 hours. Once removed from the charger, allow the battery to cool for 30 minutes before installing in the bike.
Now, mind you this is what a Suzuki Factory Service Tech said to me Over the years, I have had different results with all types of batteries. But when I followed his advice I experienced less failures and longer battery life. My advice is; buy a quality battery, service it properly, don't be in a hurry to install it and keep a battery tender on it when not in use and it will last far longer than you think.

chrgin batt now-- plz chk back..
 

thanks superbling and motojoe.
at the very first install after i added acid i never checked for -gel- could it have been boiled out of the batt like water ? did i have -gel- or water type ?

in the mean time.
i just
1]-rushed - put water in my dry batt and
2]-rushed- put the caps on- this time w/o the hammer, they just push right on.
3]i -rushed- threw it on the chrgr and
4]luckly im chrging for 24+ hrs.

i broke every rule in the SUzuk's Tech box --LOL--. but i was ignorant of this b4 i started .so i plead insanity. i'm rubbing my head now wishing i knew [u told] me this b4
i started, it's all your fault now.. --LOL-- DO U PLEAD GUILTY ?
well it's chrgin as i write and i'll check the volts @ 5k then let u guys know.
15v and over is bad right ?
i should report back on 8-9-08 so check back with the site.
thanks