Rebuilt Forks
 

Finally got some miles with my fresh Greg-built (Hawkrider) forks. Huge difference, and the price was great, even with 3000+ miles ship-cost.

Really makes you aware of how inadequate the shock is. Have to start saving pennies again.


Thanks Greg. Terrific job. And super instruction sheets.

Man oh man I gotta do this!!!!

You're welcome, Carl! It was a pleasure working on such clean forks! :mrgreen:

Next guy with a 2002 or later who needs a revalve/respring gets $25 off! That argument about '02-on forks being different is still bothering me. ;)

I'm planning on doing them after this season, will you still be in the mood and about how much?

$175 for comp/reb revalve. $105 if you need springs. Fork polish $25. Valve lapping/polish $20. Oil lock modification $15. That's $340 for the fully monty, and it's tailored to your riding style, road conditions, and your weight. Shipping cost is your responsibility.

Whenever you're ready send me a PM.

hey man... just sent you a PM...

Your in NY right? what part? --------------ah, nevermind... i learned to read....

my forks are new condition, so i'm assuming i don't need a spring? or do i?

I may be your next project... will this be better than just buying a stabilizer for now?

Stock springs are replaced because they are progressive and weak for most people over 150#. Even nuhawk got new springs and he's a skinny guy. New springs for your weight alone are like a Chips Ahoy cookie. Completely revalved and resprung forks are like a Nestle Tollhouse right out of the oven.

No, I'm not having a craving right now. Cookies are fattening and bad for you. Bad cookie! Bad! (I'll just keep telling myself that.)

Edit: The snow is gone now Josh. You can change your custom title now.

yea, and the second we get slammed with a fricking April blizzard, you will be griping all day about how Josh had to stop saying please go away snow.... I think we need another month, then we can start feeling in the clear.. lol

On a side note.. lol So basically I'm better off sending you my shht, than just adding a damper to what i've got? correct?

Yup, that's basically what it comes down to.

As for the snow, at least in my part of the state I'm 99% sure we're done until October. Supposed to be 71° Thursday!!!

Well.... I'll have to get with you sometime this week to discuss details... But i guess i'll go ahead and send them your way... I wish you where closer, i would just hand deliver the fricking things... but your like FOREVER away... lol

And since cost is similar to a stabilizer, i might as well pony up and get it taken care of

Greg Forks
 

You'll be glad you did this. Get the full-monty if you can.

As I've told you before, I'm waiting until this season is over before I send you my forks. I understand what you do except for what your "Oil lock modification " is. What does this address, the forks going solid at full bump? I'm not sure my forks do that. Also, is fork polishing necessary if the tubes are in good shape? Obviously once you see them you can determine that and do it if necessary.

BTW, its supposed to get up to 70 here today and if you get what we do here a day or so after, so be prepared!

That sounds like a sweet deal! I will definitely be getting back to you toward the end of the season.

Greg, Just curious about what your turn around time is, say now compared to end of the season. I just started riding now and I hate to stop for awhile to get the forks done. I know, I know it will be worth it, but its still hard to stop. Thanks

Guys, turn around time is the time it takes me to get springs from my source in WA + 1 day. It's usually that way most of the time. I've only had two sets of forks setting in the dining room once (the wife loves me :mrgreen:).

Oil locks, or bottoming cones as they're sometimes called, prevent the forks from hard bottoming during extremely hard braking, usually accompanied by bumps. The cone goes into a cylinder of sorts and dramatically increases the compression damping for about 3/4". The oil lock modification gives you back that 3/4" or so of travel at the bottom of the fork stroke. This is only recommended for racing and track days, as you MUST have the forks properly set up for the track and rider as to not hard-bottom the forks. For street rides, I generally set up the low speed compression a little softer for comfort. This allows the forks to dive a hair more, thus I recommend keeping the oil locks.

With regards to fork tube polishing, even new forks have some level of roughness that can be felt and seen in a side by side comparison with a polished fork tube. After complete disassembly I polish the forks by hand using a polish and a cloth. This is tough work and I always break a decent sweat when I do this, hence the reason I charge for it. If there was an easy way to do it I'd do it for free but there's not. Combined with a good quality seal grease, polishing the forks usually cuts stiction by about 30-40%. This results in better fork action and more compliant ride while still allowing a tuned amount (read more) of low speed compression damping.

Hope this answers your questions. I'm willing to talk suspension all day but I'm not giving away any secrets though. :)

Greg,
That answers my questions, Thanks. I have some thinking to do now. I've got about 400 miles on my bike now since I got it right after Christmas and I am quickly becoming aware of the forks shortcomings. It doesn't help that I am 215lbs either.

No, it doesn't. I'm about 10# heavier so I know exactly what you mean.

Amongst the bicycling set we're called "Clydesdales"!!! A large powerful draft horse of a breed developed in the Clyde valley of Scotland, having white feathered hair on its fetlocks. My fetlocks are truly becoming white but I'll never show anyone.

I grew up in St. Louis, so I'm familiar with Clydesdales. They are also commonly used on the Budweiser scale for rating women....as in how many it would take to pull me off of her. :mrgreen:

LOL

I just got mine back, $300. I had bent one when I lowsided, so that got fixed. also I had to much preload (I did have it set for 250lbs) Im down to 200 so I had it set for that, new oil, seals and check my valving (nothing wrong there w00t!)