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re-packing exhaust?
Hey folks, I have two brothers slip on the hawk and they seem to be turning abit dark (outside of cans), does tht mean i need to re-pack them? Or how does one know when to re-pack the cans? any info/advice appreciated.
Thanks, Tesh Picture (the TB cans.)>>>>>> http://img243.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1112cu0.jpg |
CF cans ?
yep - need to repack them before they blow a hole through the CF. tim |
Originally Posted by trinc
(Post 57382)
CF cans ?
yep - need to repack them before they blow a hole through the CF. tim |
They will get louder as time goes on. It kinda would take hearing freshly-packed TBR's to guage when you might want to think about doing a repack. I always think exhausts sound great after a repack, especially grumblers like your cans. Still plenty throaty and mean.
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5-10k miles before a repack, depending on how you ride.
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How?
I think I have a similar problem with my TBros pipes. What is repacking and how do I do it? I appreciate any help,
Justin 99 VTR |
Yoshimura (I have twin Yosh CF Pipes) recomends between 7-10K miles. So I will be looking into getting new packing to do my soon.
Sort of a highjack... Anyone know where to get and what type of packing to get? |
Well, i'm in canada and i ordered the re-packing kit for the TBR cans which was aroun $30 and had a friend pack it for me, the mechanic quoted about 2 hrs of labour o re-pack...i'm sure its cheaper in the states!
good luck guys! |
I appreciate it.
I was looking at it, thinking of doing it myself. I would have to buy the riviter as well though. I think I will have to do the same (take it to a shop) I guess. Oh well.
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Muffler alternative packing, materials & procedure
Anyone know where to get and what type of packing to get?[/QUOTE]
I have the 2bros AL s/o, and this is what I do.. Buy #30 drill bit & 16 (2 packs of 9) .125 X .188~.25" Large flange SS pop rivets. 18" X 3'-0 SS wool & .032" SS safety wire 18" X 4'-0 Unifrax Durafrax-S Durablanket 6#/CF X 1/2" thk ceramic insulation Remove cans. Drill out rivets at inlet end & remove perforated core; clean core & inside can with kerosene (allow to thoroughly dry!). Remove old fg packing but save SS wool (new not req'd if 2Bross SS wool in good condition). Wrap 2 diameters w/SS wool & safety wire wrap tight full length on core. Wrap 2+ diameters ceramic blanket & safety wire wrap tight full length (or use masking tape tightly, it will burn off) on core. Patiently slide wrapped core into can and re-pop rivet. Clean springs and fill w/HT silicone sealant & allow sealant to cure. Reinstall cans & safety wire springs. Total Time req'd: about 2 hours |
Total Time req'd: about 2 hours |
I should be riding...
Originally Posted by Jeepingoose
(Post 60254)
Does that include the time required for the sealant to cure before riding again?
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I was basically asking for the noob who may not ask and go ride right after blowing the sealant all over the pipe lol
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Originally Posted by skokievtr
(Post 60245)
Anyone know where to get and what type of packing to get?
I have the 2bros AL s/o, and this is what I do.. Buy #30 drill bit & 16 (2 packs of 9) .125 X .188~.25" Large flange SS pop rivets. 18" X 3'-0 SS wool & .032" SS safety wire 18" X 4'-0 Unifrax Durafrax-S Durablanket 6#/CF X 1/2" thk ceramic insulation Remove cans. Drill out rivets at inlet end & remove perforated core; clean core & inside can with kerosene (allow to thoroughly dry!). Remove old fg packing but save SS wool (new not req'd if 2Bross SS wool in good condition). Wrap 2 diameters w/SS wool & safety wire wrap tight full length on core. Wrap 2+ diameters ceramic blanket & safety wire wrap tight full length (or use masking tape tightly, it will burn off) on core. Patiently slide wrapped core into can and re-pop rivet. Clean springs and fill w/HT silicone sealant & allow sealant to cure. Reinstall cans & safety wire springs. Total Time req'd: about 2 hours |
Where to get the Unifrax?
I have been searching for hours and I can't figure out where to get the Unifrax in the specifications you gave. (Unifrax Durablanket S #6 in 18" X 4' X 1/2 inch) Do you have a site/store you could recomend?
Thanks again, |
Unifrax
Originally Posted by skivvy
(Post 60274)
I have been searching for hours and I can't figure out where to get the Unifrax in the specifications you gave. (Unifrax Durablanket S #6 in 18" X 4' X 1/2 inch) Do you have a site/store you could recomend?
Thanks again, 574-654-7145 New carlisle, IN to find a local vendor. I have plenty of the stuff. I guess I could ship enough to you at cost if you PM me. Or you could get the 2Bros packing. |
Here's an interesting read from someone who used a ceramic fiber type material to repack and exhaust. He did not have good results though. He noted that it all blew out on him. May or maynot be helpful.
http://mclements.net/Mike/mrc-VHRepack.html |
Unifrax
Originally Posted by Josh
(Post 60291)
Here's an interesting read from someone who used a ceramic fiber type material to repack and exhaust. He did not have good results though. He noted that it all blew out on him. May or maynot be helpful.
http://mclements.net/Mike/mrc-VHRepack.html |
It also would seem that skokievtr's method of packing pipes would be better anyhow - combining steel wool with refractory blanket enables the exhaust to be dampened, but partially blocks the fibers from blowing out.
or so it would seem |
Somewhat a silly question to wake up this thread with but I am trying to find a place which sells stainless steel safety wire (also known as mechanics wire?). I would rather not order online for something so basic but it's getting close to that point. I'm in the Worcester, MA area. Also just as pertinent, is there any other wire that works for repacking a muffler? (I have seen copper wire and galvenized steel).
I already tried the following places; Home depot - doesn't sell it Lowes - doesn't sell it C.A.P. (Consumer Auto Parts) - just stopped stocking it perhaps 1 week ago... Motorsports International (local motorcycle shop) - out of stock True Value - doesn't sell it Advance Auto Parts - doesn't sell it AutoZone - doesn't sell it Will try; Red Streak Motorsports, another local motorcycle shop. Aviation shops, if I can find any Race shops... there are probably some around... Thanks for any help... My roomate recommends I steal harley mufflers to pass inspection... |
I repacked my TBR's with the factory repack kit. Very simple. After I got them apart, I wrapped them with the provided packing, put some masking taped around it to hold it in place and slid it back into place. Placed some Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker recommended sealant between can and end of can.
Replaced rivets and remounted. Factory kit comes with packing, rivets and drill bit. Already had a rivet gun. I would be surprised if it took over an hour. |
When I repacked my cans, I wrapped the stainless wool with Mylar tape. About 8 months later I had to open the can up and the Mylar was in surprisingly good shape.
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try a good marine store... maybe even saltwater fishing leader.
tim |
Bolton, did you try Wagners? They are in Worcester and they race, so you know they`ll have safety wire. Or mail order it from 1-888fastlap, LP, Chaparell, Motosport, Dennis Kirk or about 7 billion other places.
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and the internet returns!
Thanks for the advice, I will have to try Wagner next time I need something like that. I had to pass inspection so I was in a little bit of a rush... and since my gf was moving, I had no time. I hate paying mechanics to do work on anything I own. |
Hey does any one know about cutting down the cans what happens? I have Jardine RT-ONES and I want to cutt them but not sure if its good or bad. Does it change the power or sound any response will help.
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