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-   -   Racing bobbins for the SuperHawk (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/modifications-performance-29/racing-bobbins-superhawk-29938/)

captainoi666 03-05-2013 10:16 AM

Racing bobbins for the SuperHawk
 
Racing bobbins for my Kern-Stabi paddock stand.

A piece of stainless steel 40 x 15 x 5 mm with a long nut ISO M6 welded on it, fit on the end of the swing arm.

http://www.uni-due.de/~ydz250/IMAG0665.jpg
http://www.uni-due.de/~ydz250/IMAG0673.jpg
http://www.uni-due.de/~ydz250/IMAG0687.jpg
http://www.uni-due.de/~ydz250/IMAG0691.jpg
http://www.uni-due.de/~ydz250/IMAG0769.jpg
http://www.uni-due.de/~ydz250/IMAG0770.jpg

superbeater 03-05-2013 09:51 PM

I'm not where I can look at my swing arm right now but that looks like one great solution to the problem of no swingarm spools.

Pretty clever. Thanks for sharing. I might have to try that.

E.Marquez 03-06-2013 04:25 AM

An interesting No weld solution.

Can you still get to the axle nut, and axle out the other side with it on the stand?

NHSH 03-06-2013 06:33 AM

very interesting, pretty cool!

captainoi666 03-06-2013 08:19 AM

Hi,


Originally Posted by superbeater (Post 350379)
I'm not where I can look at my swing arm right now but that looks like one great solution to the problem of no swingarm spools.

Pretty clever. Thanks for sharing. I might have to try that.

Look at picture #5. The upper side of the swing arm is similar to the bottom side. There you can push the stainless steel plate in the opening (5 mm x 15 mm).

On the bottom side I have drilled a 10 mm deep hole with a ISO M5 thread to attach the plate with a ISO M5 screw. The hole in the steel plate is 10 mm from the outer edge and has a diameter from 6 mm for the M5 screw. You have to be careful with drilling the hole into the swing arm. Don't drill in the wrong angle!

Instead of the long nut you can use a threaded round steel and welding it in the middle of the steel plate. The steel plate has the dimensions 40 mm x 15 mm x 5 mm (please translate all dimensions in inches).

You have to break the edges and corners of the plate (hope this is the right terminology), because the opening in the swing arm is not a real square.

OMG...my english is horrendous :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

I look for more pictures.

Cheers Buk

captainoi666 03-06-2013 08:28 AM


Originally Posted by E.Marquez (Post 350384)
An interesting No weld solution.

Can you still get to the axle nut, and axle out the other side with it on the stand?

Yes, but i have to change the adapter of the paddock stand. Cut the left side of the adapter. Better to use an other adapter for the spools. A simple adapter without click is the better choice.

Buk

CrankenFine 03-06-2013 09:32 AM


Originally Posted by captainoi666 (Post 350387)
You have to break the edges and corners of the plate (hope this is the right terminology), because the opening in the swing arm is not a real square.

OMG...my english is horrendous :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:


Your English is better than my German;)

The explanation makes perfect sense.

8541Hawk 03-06-2013 12:04 PM

Well it is one way to do it.

The way I do it is just drill a hole and pop in a rivnut : Rivet nut - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia in the box section of the swingarm......

No fuss and easy :thumbsup:

smokinjoe73 03-06-2013 12:41 PM

Yeah, I just drilled and rivenutted mine too. Maybe 10min total install time.

This is interesting, musta taken tons of thought, but I think most guys dont do welding and fabricating.

NHSH 03-06-2013 01:28 PM


Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 (Post 350409)
Yeah, I just drilled and rivenutted mine too. Maybe 10min total install time.

This is interesting, musta taken tons of thought, but I think most guys dont do welding and fabricating.

That's called, "German Engineering" :)


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