Quick question about the fork swap...
 

So I attempted the 1000rr fork swap today and have the new front installed..kind of. I cant get the steering stem to go up high enough to get the second castle lock nut on top. The cbr manual said to torque the main nut to 14ft.lbs. Ive got the upper outer race installed, bearing, and seal and it seems like it wont go down far enough inside the frame. Im using tapered bearing. Any suggestions?

If you replaced both the upper and lower bearings you may not have one (or both) of the outer races (cups) properly seated in the steering head.


Rex

Yeah, that is it. I just did the swap & you should have heated the bearings to expand them & driven them down all the way. I had no such problem.

The easy way to fix it is to use to old bearing race to protect the old and then with some care take the hammer and whack them into place... You should be able to feel the edge where it should sit... Basically if you can get your nail in between, keep working it in... Rotate around the circle in small steps... If the race on the stem is hung to high, use the old one the same way, just make the hole a bit bigger first to make it slide on/off without sticking...

Well the lower bearing is properly set as he got the triple from me and I had it on my bike with no issues.

Possibly the lower or upper race race is not all the way set.

I'm going to hazard a guess and say it's likely to be the upper race of the lower bearing... That's the tricky one to get seated correct... It has pissed me of more than once on various bikes...

Yeah that one can be a bit tricky to get all the way in.

So the race in the lower steering stem. You can just use the old cup (race) to drive the new one up until the taps make a different sound. I found with this method using a big american padlock as a sort of anvil to distribute the hammer blows ( you can hit it right in the middle & it transfers energy well). Same procedure on the upper. Its probly too late now but its way easier if you left these races in the freezer overnight.

Well I got it in anyway. Made the biggest newb mistake and forgot to take out the stock upper and lower races. Luckly I didnt mess anything up and I was able to use the old races to tap in the new ones. Thanks. Another question I have may sound stupid, but do I have to use the 1000rr master cylinder for the brakes or can I use the stock master? I have a 1000rr brembo one for it, but it has no hole for a bracket for the cup and no place to put the brake light sensor..

Well, you can use the stock one, but I really wouldn't recommend it since it's a good bit smaller in piston size... The result will be long lever travel before the brakes bite and then pretty spongy brakes once it does start to bite...

Not really the result you want after getting your new radial brakes mounted and bleed...

If you don't want to use the Brembo one, any 17 mm M/C will work... There are several from other models that will do the same work... The stock one is 14 mm, just for comparasion...

Alright thanks. I guess i'll try an make that brembo work first. Already payed way to much for it. Also Is there a difference in size between the 954 calipers and the 1000rr calipers? I got 954's on there now and It seems like they are too big

Um... The 1000RR calipers are radial mounted, the 929/954 are plain old calipers just the same as the stock VTR's with axial mounting bolts... So you can't put them on the 1000RR fork...

Unless you have mixed it up and are talking about the rotors I'm not following your thinking?

Then the 929/954's are equal in size as the one's on the 06-07 1000RR's and you will need the spacer and longer bolts for the calipers to move them out to fit...

Or are you talking about 954 calipers on the stock fork? Then they are indeed a larger volume than the stock, so matched with the stock M/C they will give the same result as if you do that with the new 1000RR calipers...

So t-dogg, I think that you should be careful getting on and riding this bike. It sounds like something may go wrong. I used an F4 master because the 1000rr unit was way too big to be able to turn at slow speeds. Seems to work fine.

I'm using a Brembo 19x21 radial MC. I made a res bracket from aluminum and ran a screw through the lever's pivot point. Used a nyloc nut on the screw. The brake light switch on mine was built into the banjo bolt.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...6&d=1251309576

Mine has no threads in that pivot point, how did you screw that in? Im probably just gonna sell mine and get a stock on because I cannot figure out how to get a brake light switch on it.

Im not sure why you are so worried. Everything I am asking questions about, I have not done so far, which is why im asking the question. Is there something I have done wrong that I don't know??

Mine doesn't have threads either. I used a screw that was narrow enough to fit through the spring pin. The screw was also long enough to stick out the bottom of the lever. That is where I put the nyloc.

Here's an old shot of the MC. You can see the brake switch integrated into the banjo bolt.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...9&d=1198644516

I'm just saying wear a helmet & jacket. If you get a stock 1000rr unit then dont plan on turning left at parking lot speeds or manuvering into a garage. But I still have one if you want to buy it. That master makes it brake so hard you cant believe it. Almost too much (if thats possible).

I got a stock CBR 1000RR M/C and no such problems... You better believe it stops though...

So here is a few picks with her all put back together. Just waiting on the stock 1000rr master and gotta put new fork seals in and hopefully im good. The only thing is when I hold the front wheel straight it seems like the upper tripple is just a hair off from the wheel. Really gotta stare at it to notice. Also I was never able to get the measurement exactly right with the distance from the center of the axle to the upper tripple. It seemed like I just didn't have enough fork to slide up any higher. Any opinions? Im going to a local suspension specialist and hopefully he can keep me from going crazy...

Well, the fork is shorter than stock, so the unloaded measurement will not be the same at all... But since the springs are stiffer, the measurement with the bike on the wheel should be close to the same...

One trick to get that to evened out if it might just be from the mounting, nothing bent, is to loosen all but the lower clamp, and then shake it all around...

Hmm...I'll have to try that. Didn't realize how much there is to adjust afterwards. Thanks for the tip!