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Once Just Recntly In A Basement Close By...
Once-upon-a-time I embarked on a quest, to teach my girl Sonya better manners and rid of her of an embarrassing, grabby, squealing, honking clutch engagement issue.After my successful test ride on Tuesday, I have to say that all the work I put into her has paid off in spades. Abundance of joy!The clutch know disengages very easily and twice as quick, allowing for nice clean 1 - 2 shifts. The clutch engagement point is smoother and wider making fast get-away-launches, a smooth, squeal, honk and chatter free affair.The clutch lever pull is a tiny bit stiffer; say 8-10%, but nothing my 66 y.o. hands can’t repeatedly handle without dissent. The unfortunate part of the experiment is I really can’t point a finger at any one or two parts and say, “this solved my issues!”. I changed quite number of parts, as I do not like opening up a patient repeatedly…. Here is what I changed:1. The OEM outer clutch guide from a ’98 to a ‘05, this part is a superseded part number from the ’98 number. Number 3 on the clutch fiche. 2. The OEM clutch push rod from a ’98 to a ‘05, this part is a superseded part number from the ’98 number. Number 12 on the clutch fiche. 3. The OEM Judder Spring. Number 7 on the clutch fiche. Just cause I was in there. 4. The OEM Judder Spring seat. Number 8 on the clutch fiche. Just cause I was in there. 5. The OEM clutch was replaced with a complete EBC SRK clutch kit, friction/steels/springs. Presoaked for 5 days in Redline Full Synthetic 10W-40 Oil. This was sourced from a wonderful vendor, Racecrafters in California. I did notice that the steels in this kit have a pin planished finish as opposed to the OEM steels finish. 6. The rebuilt OEM clutch slave was replaced with an Oberon Racing (UK) billet clutch slave. This was sourced from the North American Oberon dealer in Canada, via eBay. 7. I also installed a Factory Pro shift kit; this really made a huge difference in how fast shifts are completed and a decrease in lever effort to shift the bike. Sonya shifts much more positively now, so it was worth every penny. This too was sourced from Racecrafters in California.I want to give a huge shout out and props to “The Texan VTR Whisperer” and a very valued friend, Erik Marquez from Marquez Racing in Kempner, Texas, for answering my questions and supporting the successful changeover. Sonya and Bobby, left the line super quickly, shifted, and wheelied with ease and rode happily ever after. The End. |
Update on my clutch mods
So after riding Sonya with her new clutch mods for about 850 miles here is the update. the lever feel is indeed stiffer, but I am acclimated to it now. so no biggie. Still no chatter on 2.5k rpm fast launches. She will now leave from a stop uphill in second with zero chatter or protest. She will leave from a stop on level ground in third with zero chatter or protest. She is much easier to ride at low speeds, i.e. parking lots etc due to the very wide engagement window on the new mods. so all-in-all very happy! |
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Just curious, why do you want to leave stops in 3rd gear?
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Originally Posted by Wolverine
(Post 406794)
Just curious, why do you want to leave stops in 3rd gear?
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Ah, ok.
My bet is it's the added amount of slip from the full syn used for break in. Makes it nice and smoooth. |
Here we go.
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Originally Posted by VTR1000F
(Post 406813)
Here we go.
Modern Triumphs come from the factory with Castrol Power 1 full synthetic oil , service manual covering new clutch installs specs that same oil and no special pre soak or break in oil. Every modern Ducati (Yes the wet clutch motors as well...lol) comes with Shell Advance full synthetic oil, service manual covering new clutch installs specs that same oil and no special pre soak or break in oil Other bike brands and models do as well. End of the day, I think its a single issue for SOME clutch disk types being improperly applied to all mistakenly. |
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