Old biker cheep Mods. first! advice feed back
 

First
THANKS!
I would like to develop a list of modifications that are forum/expert approved with "data" behind them or real time results as a close second.

I am grateful for the forum and your collective knowledge, experience and assistance! Thank you in advance. tell it to me like it is.

I would like to consolidate the findings and give back to the collective good

I am quickly realizing the VTR 1000 is a race bike wrapped in emission controls and production level compromises.

cost of mod - improvement category of performance - overall popularity.

I would like to start with the easy cheeper stuff i am aware of.

1. The airbox mod "removing baffle only" i Know air box Mod unadvisable
http://www.burniemorgan.com/firestorm/airfilter.html
2. TPS = a Must it works any body have hard results for the spread sheet
3. no resistor spark plug cap I did it for wet wether prob. Ft. Cyl Fouling
4. Full bafflectomy all good in my book feed back yes no and results
5. pro shift kit this = unacceptable klunk solved.
6. 4 degree advance is it all positive gain?
7. Barnett clutch springs $16 same time as Pro Shift kit and 4 Deg. Adv.
8. Jet kit- popularity -type -cost
9. Flow Commander it seems if you jet lean you could really have a good tool
10. Performance air filter popularity -type -cost
11. After market exhaust popularity -type -cost
12. Carb synchronizing / tuning flow chart advise standards for beginning
13. unknowen affordable gains
14. Valve clearance check suggestions..
15, manual Cam Chain Tensioner

Maybe for those who have the time the best order of implementation would help the GUys on a budget.

I have done the TPS 985 Ohms to 495 Ohms, Removed the Resistors from the Plug boots, 1 1/8" hole Three Baffle Bafflectomy, and oil K&N filter change to Castol 20/50.

I will perform 4 degree advance, Pro Shifter install, Barnett Clutch Springs, Performance Pro Ti 1.1 carb Kit,

looking at the: flow commander, the velocity stacks, Air box Baffle plate removal, Then tune up, Carb Sinc. re-jetting Ti 1.1

thanks again for any help, advice, or critique !

Ian 1998 VTR 1000 Honolulu Hawaii

I have done the mods listed below. Air filter mods are not usually recommended, unless you really like to play with the carbs.

One question: Why did you switch to 20w50 motor oil? 10w40, API SJ is what Honda recommends, and it works fine. I've got 41,000 miles using it. You may not get good lubrication between some close tolerance parts by using a higher viscosity oil.

this is exactly what i was looking for
 

i have always used thicker oil, but i used to ride in Arizona,
maybe it is a bad habit not a conscious screw up i will change it when i break the clutch side of the case. Soon!
Thanks! bad news never gets better with time!

The air box mod i was talking about was just removing some restrictions.

http://www.burniemorgan.com/firestorm/airfilter.html

i thought velocity stacks, flow commander, and BMC 14404 R jet once after all changes made.

Actually it's a great street bike, if used as a race bike there are many problems that need to be overcome.

No for the rest, well I'll give you my opinion but as always YMMV

Don't mess with the airbox. While you might get lucky, you have a much better chance causing yourself a world of trouble if you start trying to mod it. Also stay with a stock air filter.

Never bothered to do a before & after dyno run on this, so no help here

This really does nothing.

Doesn't change how the bike runs, just makes a bit more noise.

This does make the trans work a little smoother but keeping the oil changed also keeps the trans working smooth.

Only on '98-'00 on other years there is no real gain to be had.

No real point unless you have a built motor. The SH clutch is rather brabby to start with, heavier springs will only make this worse.

Some washers to shim the needles and a set of pilot jets. If you just have to buy a kit I would say Factroy Pro is the best bet. (Unless you can source an HRC kit)

It is good to fine tune after you have your jetting figured out.

One word here: Stock

Whatever makes you happy. Carbon cans can have problems with cracking on a V-twin.

Not sure what you are asking. Hook up the gauge, make them both read the same, that is all there is to carb sync'ing

There really are none

Get a service manual and follow the steps.

Some people swear by them. As you should change the tensioners on a used bike, as you don't know how they have been treated, install which ever type makes you feel better.

Well the first thing you should address is the suspension. After that is taken care off, then improve the brakes.

Once you have the suspension set up for your weight and riding style and good brakes, then you can think about getting more out of the motor.

The aftermarket airfilters doesn't have those restrictions anyways... Only the OEM filter... I still say the best filter on a stock engine is a a fresh OEM one... No fiddling...

If you go for the BMC airfilter, make that the "Street" filter... I have given up figuring out their numbers... The "Race" has a yellow stripe in the filtermesh, the "Street" does not... "Race" only works with a fully built engine, just like the K&N... "Street" should work fine with stacks, slipons and such, but is a bit more finicky to get right than the OEM... But once you get it right, you gain a little in combination with all the other stuff...

How about "Insert endless debates about oil brand and fuel octane level here." ;)

This seems like a weird list to me. I would start with the problems, move on to brakes and suspension, drop weight (yours and the machine's), then fiddle with the engine. (Or keep it stock, hone your riding skills, and eventually lose the 90s bodywork ;P) I think your goal should be 400lbs, 115-130 HP, modern brakes, forks, shock and suspension, and Honda reliability.

In a way, only HD people and squids go straight to the engine -- no offense intended.

When you ride the bike, you will notice the handling, and so unless you are 85lbs wringing wet, you can't go past a JD shock as a great mod that is not expensive and is a noticeable improvement when setup for your weight.

BBB

What he said

BBB

13. unknowen affordable gains

Actually I should have put lighten the flywheel but wasn't thinking about it at the time.

so is the fly wheel something a competent machinist can do with ease what is the best method?

Do a search on the forum and you will find specs and exact measurements for best results... Take those to a half competent machinist and he can't fail... Or he shouldn't be able too at least...

Front end work needs to be on your list.

One thing I have to disagree with you on is that the SH is a race bike in hiding. it's not. Buy an RC51 if you want a race bike. It's not perfect either, but most certainly farther along than the SH is. I'm not saying the SH isn't fun to ride on the streets or track, but I would not classify it anywhere near a race bike.

i guess i knew that it wasn't a true race bike by any means but all the easy gains with TPS,shifter pro kit, bafflectomy, and other cheep improvements really helped my bike come alive and i was happy with the power before i started checking this forum for pointers. it has become a real SUPER bike!!
As soon as i started researching i realized an RC51 was somewhere in my future.
i am becoming more of a realist and appreciate the grounding all of your collective experience brings newer owners and me too!
i almost feel foolish for leaving brakes and suspension out but they are for when i have some money. and before i invest in exhaust

thanks again for your candid advise and critique it really helps!
ian