New Clutch???
 

Does this seem like a worthwhile purchase or should I go with 100% OEM Honda stuff?
BARNETT CLUTCH KIT HONDA VTR1000 1998-05 VTR 1000 | eBay
Thanks,
Rob

Well it is a good kit but what is your reason for changing the clutch?
Just asking as I have 85K miles on my stock clutch and it is still going strong.....

That's a good question... I shot you a PM about it. We had talked back and forth about the fluid levels and the lever being tight. I mean I'm not quite sure what else it could be if I have changed out the entire hydraulic system. I am almost thinking the clutch plates are shot because the bike sat for 3 years without being driven. I mean everything else is tip top but my clutch slips after the bike reaches operating temp and cools off (sits for about 10-15 mins) then I jump back on it while the bike is still warm but not operating temp. The handle is then tight as hell with NO PLAY at all and when I gun it the clutch slips. After it gets back up to operating temps the slipping stops and the clutch lever gains the original play at the top end. Does that make sense?

Oh ok, hey I'm getting old and forgot about all that or that it was you that had that problem. ;)

So in your case, it's a pretty good deal and yes I would replace at least the friction plates at this point but changing the steels couldn't hurt.....

Though I do like the OEM stuff with the Barnett springs also.

So you would be good with either set up.

quick question do you think it could be just the springs? and none of the friction materials?

My dipshit mechanic replaced a perfectly good stock clutch because it was slipping only to find someone had installed a spitball in the clutch lever to change the geometry of the lever. The Barnett replacement is very good. If you don't like the "all at the end" of the lever throw of the stock clutch you will like your Barnett. I'm glad that I did the replacement even though it wasn't needed. It's just a better part.

Well it's at the point where I haven't seen or heard of a VTR with your problem & set of issues.

So here is how I see it.

What you do know depends on if you don't mind taking the clutch cover off and if you want to do it budget or just get it done.

If you want to do it the budget way and don't mind pulling the cover would be first replace the springs, I would use the Barnett springs . If you still have issues, then pull the clutch pack. It is hard for me to say if the steels are good with out actually seeing then. The service manual does tell you how to check them. If they look good, clean them really good and replace the fibers. If you go this route and are comfortable checking the steels. I would run the OEM fibers.

Now if you just want to get it done. Buy the Barnett kit, it is a good price for it. Pull the cover once, replace the bits, and problem solved.

The choice is yours at this point. ;)

Kit was purchased this AM. I'm the kind of person that would rather buy the kit than sit here and F with it that much. After the other person said he likes his kit I bought it. Thanks for the advice guys.

check your slave cylinder. mine did the same sort of thing and to find out that the slave cylider was gumed up really bad and did not let the clutch fully disengage.. cleaned iit up and put new seals in it and works fine now. mic out the clutch plates to see if they are good if you want piece of mind.

i rebuilt the master and slave cylinders a month ago and i also replaced the clutch hose at the same time. the problem only happens when the bike goes from hot to cold and then it goes away once the bike is hot again.

does it still do it after the clutch change?