Mods 4 Tx Fun
 

Newbie who just picked up a 2000 VTR1000 with 17k miles. Only performance mods I notice are D&D slips. Man they are loud (but aggressive). I use to ride GSXR's many moons ago and nearing a mid-life reality check decided to take on the hill country but save my back.

First and foremost, she is at the local shop getting a good check-up. I have about $750 to throw at the bike in mods. She needs a new chain so I am considering going 15/43 with 520. I am also considering a K&N filter. Should I look at suspension next?

Any comments/suggestions for this budget conscience DIY?

Careful with the filter.. It is likely to make the bike need rejetting.. more so than exhaust mods do. Suspension is a good thing to go with.

15/43 might be a bit too much. Stock is 16/41. Maybe try just the 15 first.

15/43 with the 520 kit seems to be popular, at least for me it was because it's a deal for the sprockets and chain from Sumofallparts (I think thats their name) on ebay.........I just changed the rear sprocket size, which they don't charge for....so you can actually order it with stock rear teeth.

If you are looking at the same kit that I ordered, SnapAttack, watch out for the rear sprocket, they'll send you an aluminum one! It's not worth the wear factor for me but I'm going to run it til it dies!

I'm 15/44, with a 520 RK chain, btw.

Don't worry about the filter. Get those D&D's repacked. Do the forks (springs, oil, at least; maybe RT gold compression valves). Get braided front brake lines, at least, and probably some EBC HH pads. Put some good tires on it. Call it a day.

I wish I could speak from experience, but if you have money still burning a hole in your pocket, you'll probably love an aftermarket seat. And when you have another $750 to burn, get a shock.

Thanks to all. Any good sites for the suspension upgrades? I ordered the 520 conversion from suomofallparts. I will then look at suspension and then cosmetics (lower fairing, hugger rear, raise rear). The blue pill can't get this old man smiling any bigger.

Fork springs (around $100) and fresh fluid, new brake/clutch fluids, front EBC HH pads, and if doing distance riding: sargent or corbin seat, DB screen, and VFR bars. Repack D&D's but they will always be loud.

Next level, penske or ohlins shock, upgrade brakes, jet kit......... It's a slippery slope. :-)

For the fork springs are we talking OEM or aftermarket? I am searching this site for DIY install for these.

http://www.racetech.com/

http://www.sonicsprings.com/

Use their calculators to determine the correct rate for you.

Put new cam chain tensioners on...either replace with oe parts or go to the manual/adjustable ATE version.
Enjoy the ride.
T

Fork springs for sure, go with the racetech. I'd stay away from the air filter, stock is fine considering the effort required to re-jet. After that just get some good tires and ride it until you find something you don't like. Then go from there. No need to spend money on something that might never be a problem for you.

You may want to consider replacing the stock throttle tube with a quicker action RC45 unit (do a search on the site). A very inexpensive mod that makes for better response (feels like you added some hp). I have a black Puig hugger that I am getting rid of (make me an offer) if you are interested (see pics in my gallery).

Another quick and easy mod is to remove the "deflector" (screwed in) in the top airbox cover and trim the tab on the OEM filter (known as the Bernie Morgan mod). You can also look at taking out the separator in the intake snorkel (frees up airflow into the airbox). Again, cheap and easy :)

Finally, for the front end, you have to replace the flimsy stock springs (I used Race Tech, as did many others). If you contact Roger Ditchfield from Revolution Racing in the UK (Google search, he is a very helpful fellow), he can give you specs for drilling out the cartridge to help alleviate the excessive high-speed comp damping that causes hydraulic lock-ups when braking hard. While not quite as good as a valve kit, it is cheap and works well (that is how mine is set-up). A fork brace, if you can get one cheap, is also a nice improvement.

Oh, and welcome aboard :)

what was that sandhill powersports place, whats the exact name of it, i found it somewhere on here, i thought it was on this topic but i can't seem to find it, thanks

thanks, i been lookin for that thing for the last hour

Thanks again for the quick responses... I guess I have to work this weekend to pay for the mods rather than ride... naaaahhhh.

I think I may have said this before...or maybe that was an email to Stumpy...either way, I don't mean to talk shit about Mr. Ditchfield. He is obviously a decent tuner and bike builder/modifier. However this business with drilling a hole in the cartridge though is just all wrong. You are creating extra bleed for compression, sure, but at the same time you're creating bleed for the rebound as well. This is a band-aid fix and is permanently (and needlessly) altering the cartridge. If you want to get your front forks working correctly it requires new springs and possibly a revalve, depending on the spring weight. Anything more than about .80kg/mm will need a revalve at least on the rebound side. If you're interested in getting this work done PM me.

Point taken, but he was looking for inexpensive mods, and that is one. Is it the best way to go? No Is it a functional way to proceed? yes

If it works that's great, but will it work for everybody and with a range of spring weights? I dunno. The problem I have with it is that it's irreversable. Thus, if you ever want to revalve you have to buy new carts. I guess you could JB Weld it but there's no guarantee, ya know.

This forum is a blast. I'm a member of another forum site for Nissan Maxima enthusiats boasted as the number one site but members hardly ever reply and always provide a one sided opinion. I have ordered the 520 conversion and sent PM for the front fork info. I'm 250 lbs (lean and mean I must add) so I believe a spring rate around .97 kg is what I'm looking for with 18.53 kg in the rear shock. I am lookiing for a RED seat cowl, hugger, lower fairing and undertray. With that said, anyone had an undertray installed and your thoughts? Gonna take advantage of the Texas sun and hit the hills. Oh yeah, that other forum I mentioned daid I could never get my 2002 Maxima (with Auto) to run in the 13's without serious modification/investment. Well, how does 13.82 et sound for under $4000 (naturally aspirated). Looking forward to future discussions with all of you and thank you for welcoming me to the group. Superhawk running 9's????

Welcome to the forums man, I've only been here a month or so but this is by far one of the best forums I've ever been on. I like sportbikes.net and all, but half the crap you post you get an informative reply, and the other half you get some dickhole cracking on you or trying to make you feel like an idiot. No thanks.


I'm a car guy too....and 13.8 with an automatic Maxima is hauling balls, that's pretty impressive. Sprayed? How'd ya get the power? V6 car?

Ill PM you on the Max so we can keep this thread Superhawk talk out of respect.

Did not receive a PM.

It was to me, when I asked him about what he had done to his car

Sorry, I should've quoted the first time.

That was a quick ride. Got the bike back from dealer after major tune up. Was running fine and then about 30 miles into ride it started knocking around 4k rpm. Idle and low rpms runs/sounds great. Incorrect valve settings I assume???? Taking it back to dealer tomorrow.