JetKit confirmation
 

Was going the lazy route and started the project of shimming the stock needles -didn't want to/don't have the time to pull the carbs multiple times to perfect the jetting. Instead of stock needles I found aftermarket groves :shock: -guess I'm going to have to get good at yanking the carbs after all!

Searched the forums to decipher which jetkit it has and/or if installed correctly;

Can anyone confirm a couple of discrepancies from this thread?
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...drilled+slides

Factory: 5 Grooves, stock (ridiculous) length springs, 3 holes on slide

DJ: 6 grooves, short (5.5in) springs, drilled slides (4 holes in bottom of slide)

Mine has 5 grooves (clip 1 up from the bottom of needle #4 groove?) and stock springs. Didn't check the drilled slides yet and haven't pulled the carbs yet to check mains.

Starting to working on the jetting originally to solve: hunts slightly at 1/8-1/4 throttle, occasional clunk-die, and HOT pipes. Actually BURNT/BROWNED the carbon fiber MIGS :eek: (Damnit!)

Otherwise pulls hard, no rough running etc. Stock air filter, Header wrap up to midpipes, MIG exhaust, PAIRS disabled, CA sea level Suggestions? THX

By the way, it's been said before but bears repeating, This site has a bunch of info, some great local 'experts' and good threads!! Thanks to you all who have added over the years!!!

You have a Factory kit. You should not have drilled slides. The mains will tell you for sure the type. DJ goes by 5's (180, 185, 190...) and Factory is like stock Keihin (180, 182, 185, 188, 190).

Ensure PAIR is still disabled and that the PAIR valve covers have a good seal/cap. Adjust mixture screws about 1/4 to 1/2 turn out. Leave everything else as-is. Remove header wrap as that is the cause of too much heat at the cans. Heat and CF is never a good combination.

Finish up with a carb sync.

+1 on the heat wrap. The purpose of the wrap is to contain the heat in the pipe and push the heat out the muffler instead of letting the heat dissipate near the engine which would make the engine hotter.

No drilled slides, +1 on the factory kit.

Ran out of time again so checking the jets will have to wait. Did however get around to removing all the PAIR equipment, adjusting the TPS, new plugs, oil, coolant and carb sync. Also swapped out the short velocity stack for a tall one while the airbox was open. Only made a quick run around the block but it's running smoother and stronger than before. Well worth the time spent. I'll remove the wrap next time I get into the bike and check the mains. Thanks for the replies

jet kits
 

when all of you guys jetted your bikes did you change any other jet than the main not counting moving your clip and the reason not to have exhaust wrap is it does keep the heat in pipes and they burn up from the inside out heard it from a exhuast pro

i changed the pilot jet to #48 and after fussing around ( long story ) ended up going back to the #45 ( 2.5 turns out ).

the 48 was too rich at idle but the transition ( off idle ) was great. now that i'm back to the 45 i need to move the clip down 1 notch as i have a bit of a hole off idle...

tim