Ignition and steering lock fit with CBR triple
 

I have bought a complete CBR 1000 fork but not yet started wrenching and came to think of one thing I haven't researched. Will the stock ignition lock fit?

...and are anyone reusing the (ugly) steering damper?

well on my 954 setup all I needed was some washers to make the stock ignition / steering lock fit. not sure w the 1000

as for the steering damper, I am fairly sure the stock one from Honda is electronic, so that would be a real trick to get working right as the SH ecu knows nothing of dampers.

Thank you.
Maybe the 1000 is different?

Yes there is a electric connector in the bottom of the steering damper, so I guess I'll just scrap it.

Cheers

Nuhu... no scrapping... Let me play with it a while... I have had ideas on that damper but not had one to play with...;)

The CBR 1000RR triple is different, but the same... I had mine one, and it needed a few washers to line up the lock pin with the hole in the neck, but other than that bolt-on...

Actually the ignition bolts right up to the 1000RR triple.No fuss no muss. But you do have to grind down the steering stops on the bottom triples if you want to turn

Iv'e heard those electronic dampers are crap and are set up really stiff. What would you do to it?

I'd figure out how to get a signal to it for swapping the highspeed/lowspeed signal... And then test it out... I'm an electronics engineer, so that part is easy to me...

I have now done half of the swap. The steering stops did not need grinding. After relocating the coolers 15mm there seem to be no interference with anything. If the issue use to be the fairing brackets then maybe there is a difference between years. Mine is a 2005.

Also the ignition lock did not fit without drilling new holes in the steering head.

Picture steering lock
 

Maybe I will need to trim the stop tabs on the outside to turn more. I will know if it is possible when I have put on the tank.

I trimmed the left side steering stop about 1/4 inch, but I barely overdid it. So be careful. I moved the left radiator back about 0.8 inches, but now after trimming the steering stop, the lower triple is barely making contact with the radiator hose (not too bad).

Also, my ignition bolted right up to my top triple. Mine is aftermarket though, but the holes should all be in the same place.

1/4 inch? that's 6mm, i.e. the whole thickness of the stop. Or am I missing something. I plan to grind 1mm at a time.

I'll post pictures of the ignition lock.

I just got everything bolted up, and if I could do it over, I wouldn't grind very much at all. 1/4 inch was too much. I might even add some back.

Yeah, I think it was Greg that said he used self adhesive wheel weights to build the stops back up. I have had no issues with my ground down stops.

I have now tried some custom handle bars but it looked ugly. I put the CBR 1000 HB's on and they seem to work ok actually. I took away the tabs for locking the position and moved them slightly forward. I also routed the wires upwards. Only a test ride will tell if the position works in a riding situation. Now I will scout for pictures of other's handle bar fixes.

Well... Unless you plan on going naked with the bike it won't work... The stock CBR 1000RR clipons sit below where the fairing starts...

I have riser clip-on's and have them set just above the upper tripple and at full right the brake banjo bolt hits, so remember everthing hanging off your clip-on's too.

If you have them above the triple then you have major geometry issues. The fork legs are too short to have them pushed up through the top triple clamp. Your bike will be dangerously low in the front and unstable.

With the 1000 the forks need to be flush with the top triple, and in that state are still shorter than stock, but manageably shorter.

Maybe I have bought something else than a CBR 1000RR 2005 fork? The fork is in place, the fairing is on and the clip ons sit below the triple. Nothing is interfering yet. I haven't put on the brake lines but the banjo is there and free. I haven't shaved the steering stops yet though. How much steering range do one need?

No no, i meant clamped underneath the upper tripple and then the risers set at flush with the upper tripple.

My understanding was that the angle of the stock 1000rr clip-on's where too steep and they hit the fairing. I know when I took out mine for the first time with things hitting the faring stay on both sides, I almost wrecked turning out of my driveway. Slow speed turning will be a bitch with limited steering. I guess as much steering as you can get...

Yeah, dont you guys remember me telling the "crashed my bike due to steering lock" story? If you dont have the steering lock you used to it can crash you when you dont expect it.

Let's put it this way... If the fork legs isn't a hairs width from hitting the hose on the raditors you will be paddling back and fourth a lot in anything less then a roundabout...

And like I said in another thread, to get the handlebars in a position that will work for riding, once you have full lock to the point where you are almost hitting the rad hose, set the handlebars so that you can get 2-3 fingers between the end of the handle and the tank on each side... Then make small adjustments on it from there...

And if you have the CBR 1000RR front end whatever year with those triples, you will not be able to put the fairings on without trimming at the bottom, and the handlebars will not clear the top "shelf" of the fairings in a rideable position... Neither will they clear the fairing by the windshield once all controls are mounted...

Well... I tested those things before leaving the garage... And set the clipons accordingly... But your way seems more interesting...;)

First test ride tonight round the block. Everything working but might hit stops in slow turns. There is still room to shave off a little without hittting. I think I'll make adjustable stops to be able to set them exact.
Yes I had to trim a few mm off the inner black shrouding.
Every handle, lever and wire have to go in exact location or it will hit something. Do you know if there are any clip ons from another bike that are just a few cm higher?

There are adjustable one's... Lookie here... https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ight=fork+swap

In the end it became a lot of fabrication. I have used Vortex clamps, handle bars from an adjustable TT-bar and homemade angled tube from stainless steel. But now fits superb and is fully adjustable. Maybe not so beautiful though. I have 954 clip-ons on their way home just in case.
Cheers!

Hmm... It seems you are doing the same thing as all the others doing similar swaps... Are you going touring or racing?

The angle of those handlebartubes are considerable less than stock... That makes the "stance" wider between the arms, and more problematic to fit stuff behind the fairing without hitting stuff...

Considering that you are already making the bars sit wider and further back by putting the standing tube outside the forkleg instead of in front like "stock" on both the VTR and the CBR's you could have made things easy and used a superbike bar setup instead... Would have given you about the same riding geometry with a lot less work... And a very nice touring feel for distance riding...

Look below, see the difference to mine... They are measured to be close to stock position, since I liked that position (actually a bit lower than stock, but otherwise the same)... Much more swept back, closer together and more forward... Gives you much more room to clear the fairing as well...

Oh, on a more positive note though, nice innovation with the handlebars... It doesn't look that hideous, turn them around with the lower clamp ahead of the fork and it's a bit more hidden (same geometry if you prefer that) and pain them a nice black and they will look like stock...

Attachment 10581

I don't know what a superbike bar is and the therapy is just what I need this time of year, so no problem. The reason for having the Vortex clamps sideways is that I then can adjust the bars up/down. I found that I much prefer a flat angle to a downswept. The alubars are adjustable forward/backwards. I just loosened everything, closed my eyes and got into position. Then I fixed it there. If it is correct when driving remains to be seen in better weather conditions.

Next are a SP2 swing I just bought on eBay. Should be home by christmas.
Tweety, go and make some new mods I can copy ;-)

Bah, you keep going... You still have a few more on the current list to tick off... Plus I might have added one or two more mods on the sly, just to too keep people guessing... Oh, and let's not forget the mod's I forgot to list... Or forgot that I have made... ;) And I still have some stuff lying on shelves that I haven't gotten around to modifying yet... Argh... So much idea's and so little time...

Right now I'm trying to teach the electronics new tricks... The GPI is one of them, (or two if you count the shiftlight separate) and somehow my ignition maps may or may not have ended up being adjustable... Just by accident, you understand... ;)

I don't use the steering lock on my bike, so it's not a big deal. Everything else fits/works perfectly so all is well in my mind.

I have similar question with a slightly different angle...I just picked up a complete 2007 CBR1000rr front end, and I'm wondering if the steering lock pin from the CBR ignition line up with the VTR ignition-steering-pin-lock receptacle? I suppose I will find out soon enough...

There is a 2007 gsx-r 600 front end for pretty cheap here. Will this work with the superhawk?