I am virgin so be kind...mod help!
 

Ok so I have had this bike 2 weeks..just finished brake line and sintered pads..race tech .95 spring upgrade..040 drilled 1.06 above alum boot and ground the rebound damper rods..8wt. fork oil..changed to a 15 t front...and tomorrow my Jardine Hi Mt RT 1 s go on......thats my next issue...regarding rejet..(I have a dynojet kit on hand) and a K&N to install...my question is..To install the K&N or new clean stock...jetting guidelines and I cannot find any info on removing the stock snorkel or leaving it in place........Any Input on all of the above mods..pro or con would be greatly appreciated....By the way my other ride is An R1...lol but have not ridden it but once since I got my hawk....I may be old but I can still push em into a corner a bit.............just new to Hawkdom thats all.......
Thanks to all....and yes I know this has been all covered before...I just could not find some of this info regards the snorkell ect..so be nice! lol

disclaimer: I have not done any of this, but from what I recall in reading this forum:

Leave the snorkels in, replacing the shorter snorkel with another long one might provide a minimal boost, but otherwise just leave them alone.

You should use the K&N since you are rejetting it. You can't just swap the filter without rejetting most of the time, and more flow is better. So do it all at once rather than rejet twice. (once for Exhaust, once for K&N)

K&N's are hard to get right with jetting. A lot of people have had much better luck, and in some cases more power, going with the OEM filter.

And yes the long velocity stack is already on the way.........I do remember from my old Norton days how sensitve these twins can be.........not looking for huge power gains here just smooth power all the way to redline...this is a fun bike to ride.....I just want to "squeeze" all it potential out within reasonable limits.....and the snorkel I am talking about is the airbox intake snorkel.....not the velocity stacks on the carbs

I took my snorkel out, not sure if it made a difference or not. Seemed to be fairly restrictive though.

ah my bad. I have no clue about the snorkel

K&N is the way to go, just exoect to pull the tank 2 or 3 times to fine tune her.

Once you get hewr tuned and carbs sync'ed you will never be in there again other than to pull tank to clean the filter once a year.

I can't offer much on the jet kit you bought as i am a Factory Pro ChickenHawker.

You might consider pilots that are 47 instead of the stock 45's or the kits 50's.

Also you do not have to drain the fluids like the manual says, just use a good set of needle nose style vice grips with a couple of layers of duct tape on the jaws and clamp off the hoses near the carbs.

One last thing and i will shut up, you should consider installing a vacume fitting where hte fron cylinders screw in for Carb Sync.

By installing a fitting you can then install a vacume line and route it back to the left side frame member along with extending your rear carbs vacume lline to the same location. Cap both of them off.

When you need tt do a carb sync all you need to do is remove your vacume line caps, hook up your vacume sync gauges and then adjust the carbs. No tank removal required, quick and easy.

Once sync is done re-cap the lines and you a re done till next time.

I have had mine that way since 99.