Gold Valve installation questions
 

I've looked at the notes on line here and at other sites regarding drilling the hole in the Racetech Gold valve for the fork but still have a couple of questions for those that have done this mod.

1. In the attached picture I pointed the pencil tip at what seems to be the port they are referring to in the instructions and where I believe they want the bleed hole drilled. The detail drawing provided with the kit looks like it is pointing above the O ring groove to one of 3 ports. Am I correct?

2. I'm supposed to drill through the outer wall of this valve port. Am I correct?

I'm assuming from the drawing included in the package I've got the valve orientated correctly with the center recess facing up.

3. I'd thought about drilling the hole to the smaller size first (1mm) to see if I was satisfied with the result since others here have drilled it to the larger size first (1.3mm) then were unable to go back. I intend on doing a bit of track time on the bike and often ride 2-up. Any thoughts on drill sizing?


Thanks for your help.

you might wanna PM Hawkrider or James Daugherty. They are experts at these types of questions since they've done it many times. Many send their suspension parts to them for upgrades, but their very helpful with those who choose to go it on their own. In the meantime I would google "race tech gold valve drill hole" and see what you can find out.

Question:
What do those gold valves do to the stock forks?
Are really worth?

I may end up doing this mod as well. I had the same thoughts about starting with a 1mm hole and then increasing as needed. Please keep us posted - thanks! JB

to get a intelligent answer, google racetech gold valve forks. Otherwise, it supposedly improves handling, but i don't have them, so......

The hole size and disk stack are based on your weight. Mine are set for 210 lbs.

I installed compression gold valves 6 or 7 years ago. I checked the instructions tonight. The valve is oriented correctly. The location indicated with your pen is correct. Drill through the outer wall only. The material is very soft.
The compression valve in my 2001 Canadian model VTR was different than most Showa compression valves. The valve, valve stack and check valve were not held on to the base with a Allen bolt. They were held on by a nut that was peened on a shaft like the rebound valve. The only other compression valve like it that I've seen was from a Honda Blackbird shown on an Australian website. The shaft on my VTR's compression valve was hollow and had a 1 mm. bleed unlike most VTR's which apparently have a bleed shim that's not used with the gold valve. That's why you have to drill a hole in the gold valve, i.e. to get some bleed. The 1 mm. bleed worked fine for me. Provided you use the correct spring, valve stack and an oil of the correct viscosity, you'll have a plusher fork that's well-controlled. In my case, it was a definite improvement over stock.

Thanks for the feedback. I try to follow the rule "measure twice, cut once" where I can and this seemed to require it.

not to thread jack, but.................
can I drill the factory valve like this?

+1 on PM'ing JD, who apparently can do these to a tee in his sleep.

i did both compression and rebound RT valves and springs a little over a year ago. for the compression valves i bought a couple high-quality drill-bits. and went to a shop a buddy worked at to use their drill-press. i'd recommend a drill-press, because doing it by hand is much lower precision / accuracy.

take your time and be careful with those valves. they are soft!

the stock springs are pretty mushy. if you're going to the trouble, i recommend you replace them with RT springs as well.

--fred