How hard is it to put 954 forks on the SH
#1
How hard is it to put 954 forks on the SH
Interested in upgrading my forks the previous owner to my bike was much heavier and I believe he only put dampers in and bigger springs he weighed 250 at least I weigh 150 wet after a large meal
#2
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...p-guide-23751/
Once you've read that if you have a bunch of money burning a hole in your pocket I have a complete RC51 SP2 front end (forks with custom machined lowers, triples, Convertibars, Brembo radial MC, billet brackets for the CBR1000RR radial calipers, carbon front fender (the brand slips my mind but it's not Chinese)… axle, Marchesinis, Braking wave rotors.... It's been a LONG time but you'd just need to swap the races in your frame and you're good to go. May also need to trim your steering stop and play with the adjustments on the Convertibars (otherwise tight turns in parking lots are a chore).
Or you could just refresh and properly spring what you already have for a lot less effort and money.
Once you've read that if you have a bunch of money burning a hole in your pocket I have a complete RC51 SP2 front end (forks with custom machined lowers, triples, Convertibars, Brembo radial MC, billet brackets for the CBR1000RR radial calipers, carbon front fender (the brand slips my mind but it's not Chinese)… axle, Marchesinis, Braking wave rotors.... It's been a LONG time but you'd just need to swap the races in your frame and you're good to go. May also need to trim your steering stop and play with the adjustments on the Convertibars (otherwise tight turns in parking lots are a chore).
Or you could just refresh and properly spring what you already have for a lot less effort and money.
Last edited by captainchaos; 09-12-2018 at 05:25 PM.
#4
I clicked on it and it works. Otherwise just search under "Modifications-Performance." It's the first item. Tweety's "Front Fork Swap - The Guide."
The last nice set of SP2 forks and triples I saw sold on Ebay for about $800... A set of SP1 forks and triples just sold 3 days ago for $700. (You can check the "sold" items). I mean I'm reasonable and it depends on what else you want but once you've done a little homework (since you asked how hard it is) and you're serious shoot me a PM and we'll work it out.
The last nice set of SP2 forks and triples I saw sold on Ebay for about $800... A set of SP1 forks and triples just sold 3 days ago for $700. (You can check the "sold" items). I mean I'm reasonable and it depends on what else you want but once you've done a little homework (since you asked how hard it is) and you're serious shoot me a PM and we'll work it out.
Last edited by captainchaos; 09-12-2018 at 05:36 PM.
#5
To answer your original question, as long as you're somewhat mechanically inclined it's not "hard" at all but it's something that needs to be researched a little so you know exacly what you're getting into.
#7
Well he describes any minor difference betters than I could. I know I did the swap at least 10 years ago (I'm currently parting out most of the aftermarket stuff I hoarded over the years and that bike is no longer together) and besides swapping out the races in the frame and I believe grinding down the steering stops a bit for better turning in tight spaces, my main issue was farting around with bars to properly clear the fairings, etc. I eventually just broke down and bought a fairly pricey set of Convertibars since they adjust in every direction. Otherwise it's a pretty straightforward swap. Again forgive me it's been many years. I also want to say there may have been a better option (954 I believe due to the gullwing shape rather than flat) with the lower triple regarding fairing clearance of the small inner pieces. I'm just super **** and like everything to look factory rather than have to trim or cut anything up.
Last edited by captainchaos; 09-12-2018 at 06:04 PM.
#9
Shoot me a PM and I'll shoot you my cell. I'm about to go running and then to bed but I'll be happy to talk to you tomorrow while I'm driving around for work, or whenever else. I'll pretty much sell anything as long as the price is fair. Fair meaning I've always tried to sell stuff cheaper, and cleaner and in better shape than you can find it anywhere else.
#10
Not hard to do, but the easy way in not the right/safe way.
Any front end you choose will need new springs and a full revalve to work correctly. Considering all that is involved you probably need $700-800 for a complete swap. The performance is not much better than investing ~$300 (what we charge) for a spring and upgrade on your OEM forks.
I have an inverted front end on my VTR and if I had it to do all over again I would have stuck with the stock forks. The money I invested does not justify the minimal gains over a properly setup conventional set of forks.
Any front end you choose will need new springs and a full revalve to work correctly. Considering all that is involved you probably need $700-800 for a complete swap. The performance is not much better than investing ~$300 (what we charge) for a spring and upgrade on your OEM forks.
I have an inverted front end on my VTR and if I had it to do all over again I would have stuck with the stock forks. The money I invested does not justify the minimal gains over a properly setup conventional set of forks.
#11
Not hard to do, but the easy way in not the right/safe way.
Any front end you choose will need new springs and a full revalve to work correctly. Considering all that is involved you probably need $700-800 for a complete swap. The performance is not much better than investing ~$300 (what we charge) for a spring and upgrade on your OEM forks.
I have an inverted front end on my VTR and if I had it to do all over again I would have stuck with the stock forks. The money I invested does not justify the minimal gains over a properly setup conventional set of forks.
Any front end you choose will need new springs and a full revalve to work correctly. Considering all that is involved you probably need $700-800 for a complete swap. The performance is not much better than investing ~$300 (what we charge) for a spring and upgrade on your OEM forks.
I have an inverted front end on my VTR and if I had it to do all over again I would have stuck with the stock forks. The money I invested does not justify the minimal gains over a properly setup conventional set of forks.
Personally I think the only better reason for the swap is if your looking at a wheel or brake set up that requires different forks...Or the very real and personal choice to do it just for looks if thats your thing.
#12
Not hard to do, but the easy way in not the right/safe way.
Any front end you choose will need new springs and a full revalve to work correctly. Considering all that is involved you probably need $700-800 for a complete swap. The performance is not much better than investing ~$300 (what we charge) for a spring and upgrade on your OEM forks.
I have an inverted front end on my VTR and if I had it to do all over again I would have stuck with the stock forks. The money I invested does not justify the minimal gains over a properly setup conventional set of forks.
Any front end you choose will need new springs and a full revalve to work correctly. Considering all that is involved you probably need $700-800 for a complete swap. The performance is not much better than investing ~$300 (what we charge) for a spring and upgrade on your OEM forks.
I have an inverted front end on my VTR and if I had it to do all over again I would have stuck with the stock forks. The money I invested does not justify the minimal gains over a properly setup conventional set of forks.
Last edited by captainchaos; 09-16-2018 at 10:40 AM.
#14
He has a drop in DIY set now or send him your forks...the DIY set works as long as you have the long experience needed to see what many will not..a wrong part here, a missing part there because the last PO was a hack. And the general experience and knowledge to work on the forks, proper tools, ect.
IMHO, if you don't have V blocks and dial indicator, or a lathe with centers and a dial indicator, seal and bushing drivers tools, sonic tank,or heated aqueous wash tank, ect to service the forks.... your doing less then a full service and could benefit from having a pro do the work.
#15
Having bought the bike with the forks on the loose side (PO cheapend out and only replaced the seals the year before), and having hit a large number of bumps and potholes at fast speeds (making the forks even worse), servicing the forks and steering bearings is mandatory regardless, and it'd be a pity not to improve the valving and add a stiffer spring.
IMO, the 300USD (256€) quoted by Jamie in this thread, if they include springs + revalve + labor would be very good value- the cheapest I could get a set of spring and compression valves is around 250USD. However, I cannot send the forks to Jamie- the shipment alone would cost over $250, there would be issues with the customs as I'd need to declare the forks a "temporary export", and so on. Not to mention that it'd be impossible for all this to take less than 5-6 weeks from removing until reinstalling the forks on the bike.
So far I've successfully rebuilt a few forks, such as R6 forks and rockshox air MTB forks, and I do have enough tools for a job like this . Taking it apart, measuring trueness, cleaning, and reassembling is not too hard.
The hard part- what I need and can't find is specific info regarding:
-what shim stack (or what pre-made valves) to get
-what orifice size is needed (if the stock one needs modifying)
-what oil viscosity
-what spring weight
All that for the best possible performance, while still holding on- not launching off the road on these shitty Eastern-European roads, for a rider around 90kg/200lbs.
IMO, the 300USD (256€) quoted by Jamie in this thread, if they include springs + revalve + labor would be very good value- the cheapest I could get a set of spring and compression valves is around 250USD. However, I cannot send the forks to Jamie- the shipment alone would cost over $250, there would be issues with the customs as I'd need to declare the forks a "temporary export", and so on. Not to mention that it'd be impossible for all this to take less than 5-6 weeks from removing until reinstalling the forks on the bike.
So far I've successfully rebuilt a few forks, such as R6 forks and rockshox air MTB forks, and I do have enough tools for a job like this . Taking it apart, measuring trueness, cleaning, and reassembling is not too hard.
The hard part- what I need and can't find is specific info regarding:
-what shim stack (or what pre-made valves) to get
-what orifice size is needed (if the stock one needs modifying)
-what oil viscosity
-what spring weight
All that for the best possible performance, while still holding on- not launching off the road on these shitty Eastern-European roads, for a rider around 90kg/200lbs.
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