fork spring swap
 

so guys, i dont have the service manual and i want to do the fork spring swap, is it as simple as forks off, old springs out, new springs in, fill with correct fluid and correct amount, and install?

IF money permits this winter i want to send them to JD and get them done up right but if not i want to do the install myself

Thanks guys!

+1 I'd also like to know the answer to this. I swapped the springs in my VFR800 easily enough, but I don't know what complexity the pre-load and rebound adjusters make to fork disassembly on the SH. I want to try putting the OEM springs from my VFR800 in the SH forks as they are a closer match to the spring weight my weight requires.

To swap the fork springs in the stock forks, loosen the cap then take a 14mm wrench and hold the nut under the fork cap and then remove the cap.

Then the springs come right out.

Then screw the cap back on, hold the nut and tighten the cap. Then thread it back into the fork. ;)

You can also download the service manual here: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-manual-11365/

Well, apart from cutting/or at least installing the correct spacers, that's about it for a basic installation... It's however a very, very good idea to swap out the valves and shimstacks once you are in there... You can get a decent setup with the online calculators from Racetech, but Jamie or Hawkrider does it better...

Thanks 8541Hawk that's exactly what I was looking for, I have the service manual but I guess I missed that part. I personally may go with different valves later but the spring swap is so quick and easy that I can do it in a few minutes and I think the VFR springs will firm it up nicely, even though they are still a little under the desired spring rate suggested by RaceTech, but at least not as woefully under as the OEM ones.

It's much easier if you remove the forks from the bike. You can then pump out all the old sludge that is honda fork oil, and then measure the fork oil height a lot more precisely with the springs out and forks collapsed.

Hope this makes sense. It's really very simple once you have done it. No special tools required. A front end stand would help a lot.

If you swap for linear springs like racetech, cut spacer for total length 410 mm (with spring, without washer). Oil level is 130 mm, oil 10W for oem valving, or 5W for racetech internals. Look also method how to correctly setup preload and adjust it to 26-30 mm, this is quite important.

and if you want the rebound adjuster to work:

back it off to full soft and the preload adjuster as well,

turn the lock-nut beneath the cap down as far as the threads allow on the top of the rod,

screw the cap down the rod until there is an 1/8" gap(or the same amt the rebound adjuster protrudes above the preload adjuster), that is, the gap between the lock nut and the bottom of the large alum fork cap.

Now run the lock nut up the rod until it touches the underside of the fork cap and snug very gently with two 14mm open end wrenches, the second one holding the preload adjuster.

Can the oil be changed without removing the fork from the bike?

I believe you need to remove the forks and pump them out.

You can do it with the forks still on the bike, but it will be a giant PITA, and you will get to clean oil of a lot of parts... Make it easy on yourself, and take them out...

And besides, if it's because you don't want to use a front stand lifting at the triple, or hang the bike or similar... You still need to do that regardles... So it save no work there...

Figured as much, my old NT650 Hawk had drain plugs at the bottom of the legs, was hoping I was missing something on the SH.

if you don't have the financial means for USD forks, or to have JD or Hawkrider to do your forks, you might want to do what I did and opt for the DIY mod in the link below:

VTR1000F FireStorm Suspension Mods!!

you need to make sure you have the correct springs for your weight and a little mechanical savvy. Things to be careful with are the procedure for installing and aligning the forks, setting the rebound, and steering stem bearings which should be inspected when you have the forks off. There's plenty of info written on the forum and help if you need it.

I'll just throw this bit of info in here: I installed the OEM springs & spaces from my '99 VFR800 into my SH yesterday and the difference is amazing. I'm sure racetech springs might be even better (I have them in the VFR now) but those OEM ones work great in the SH. The bike is MUCH more planted in the corners.

Wait till you replace the valve stack it just keeps getting better