Dyno run results
 

Its been awhile since I posted, but I finally got the 'hawk on a dyno :)

First run was a 4th gear run after it had been sitting 30~45 min.(not cold, but not above 180 deg)

Second run, bike at 180 deg, 4th gear run.

Third run was a 1rst thru 6th gear run :p

first and second run:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ke/shdyno1.jpg

third run:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ke/shdyno2.jpg

Mods:

Moriwaki stage 1 cams, JE pistons, Dynojet kit, Long velocity stacks, BMC air filter, 4 deg advancer, Factory Pro Star Shifter, APE CCT 's, Throttle positioner mod, GP shift mod, Leo Vince slip ons, Race teck fork springs, Gold valve compression/rebound valves, RC45 throttle tube.

i am not sure but am i reading this right? 114hp ? thats with pistons and cams jet kit. i figured you would have got alot more than that. im real new to super hawks but i thaught stock superhawks put down 100-103hp at the rear wheel?

cameron: It's not uncommon to see peaks after the gear change during an all gear run like that. Have you ever up shifted before getting the clutch in and felt the bike kick?

Nice, what elevation were you and how high was the humidity or are those corrected numbers? I have been wondering how mine stacks up against other 'Hawks. I want to get mine checked again on a DynoJet dyno, but here is what mine put down on a SuperFlow running DynoJet correction.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...6&d=1227997648

General informationModel:Honda VTR 1000 FYear:1998Category:SportRating:78.8 out of 100. Show full rating and compare with other bikesEngine and transmissionDisplacement:996.00 ccm (60.78 cubic inches)Engine type:V2Stroke:4Power:110.00 HP (80.3 kW)) @ 9000 RPMTorque:96.00 Nm (9.8 kgf-m or 70.8 ft.lbs) @ 7000 RPMValves per cylinder:4Cooling system:LiquidGearbox:6-speedTransmission type
final drive:ChainStarter:ElectricPhysical measuresDry weight:192.0 kg (423.3 pounds)Seat height:810 mm (31.9 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting.Chassis and dimensionsFront brakes:Dual discRear brakes:Single discSpeed and accelerationTop speed:255.0 km/h (158.4 mph)Power/weight ratio:0.5729 HP/kgOther specificationsFurther informationAsk questionsEnter the 98 Honda VTR 1000 F discussion group,
the new Honda forum at Bikez.name or
the new Sport forum at Bikez.name.Related bikesGet a list of related bikes for comparison of specsParts, gear and accessories http://www.bikez.com/newflag2.gif Check out offers from our webshop partners. Only in the US and Canada yet.Insurance, loans, tests Search the web for dealers, loan and insurance costs, tests, customizing, etc.

He told me these are corrected numbers. He also computed the SAE numbers which were like 151hp.:eek:, but those are unrealistic.

I had read a 3 part article in Americam Iron magazine (IIRC) by Dr Dyno. that was the best explanation I have heard/read about dynos. So, I could go to the next dyno down the street and get different numbers without doing anything to the bike. Or I could go to a dyno and the operator could just manipulate the numbers and get more Hp to.

He said that the af ratio was good so I do not need to adjust anything.

Dynos are manipulatable and aren't always correct when it comes to bragging rights. They are great for tuning and diagnosis to know which way you are going. I'm sure if my bike were up there it would post some sad numbers.

I have been thinking about dropping a main jet size, I believe i'm running 195/198, as you can see i'm a bit on the rich side in summer weather. Although I do get about 38-40mpg around town with a bit more on the interstate. Unless i'm above 90mph, I never use sixth or hardly fifth gear. I find the best economy for my bike is between the upper end of three grand to almost 5500.

I'm still saving up and planning for the fuel injection conversion I want to do, but it's been slow and dwindling since the downturn. Also, my project numbers keep going up as there are other things I want to try (undertail radiator is just a sexy idea). I'll never have to worry about most weather or altitude correction issues during traveling as everything will correct itself with a proper ECU. I've even considered running two wideband oxygen sensors to tune for each cylinder. Then I got way ahead of myself when I started to research superchargers. 8D

I'm sure the plan could move along a bit quicker if some of the European riders could find a mate some deals on 2003+ Varadero parts. It becomes hard to search when English is the only language this chap speaks.

That HP curve is really linear

That's very comparable to my old bike. Nice numbers.

yes, comparing dynos is pretty worthless for numbers. But yours really is a nice smooth straight power curve, and the jetting can be hard to get in my experience. I'm sure it feels a lot more than 10 hp over stock as well. Mine with similar mods (except stock filter and no 4 degree advance) on the exact same dyno from beginning to end was 100 baseline to about 118 max at end of project.

I personally saw HP change on dyno run on a Duc 999. The increase was 1hp. This was due to an increase in the air pressure in the rear wheel, everything else was the exact same.

Somewhere I have the dyno run of my bike, bone stock with about 1,000 miles on her. If anyone is interested I can post it.

Linear HP curve and Flat Torque, that's what I love about the SuperHawk!:cool:

There are many things that can affect a dyno run. Condition of the bike between baseline and final run. Loaded (resistance type) and unloaded runs will show a difference. Configuration and setup of the dyno can be changed quite easily.

I've been present or involved (I work at a small bike shop as a mechanic, we recently had to sell the dyno :( ) with plenty of dyno runs and i've usually told people one thing: When it comes to comparing numbers, different dynos and/or different days will always have different numbers. Without stating all the environmental variables including the dyno and it's location, your number should mean nothing to anyone but you. This is YOUR state of tune. I usually follow that with you can tell people whatever you like as long as it isn't something negative about me. :D


For this reason, I only pointed out the fact that my fueling looks rich. That reminds me, ride57, any chance of getting the Air/Fuel reading for those runs?

I thought about building a true dyno that would measure torque x RPM with a simple wheel RPM to engine RPM conversion, just the roller mass equation, voila true dyno. Simply a spring loaded roller with a computer controlled truck air brake sensing the spring elongation.
With a known spring elongation table, real torque can be calculated.
No rocket science there