Carb question
 

There may be other symptoms but rough idling or dying at stop lights is when I usually when I re-synch. And just doing it once or twice a year is not a bad idea.

The only good way is to know what one feels like when its adjusted right.
All it is doing is balancing the amount of intake charge each cylinder gets per stroke.
If your bike runs like shit, its probably not carb syncronization by itself.

Well, this is my first non-injected bike so I really don't know for sure but it seems to run fine, it does not miss or stall at anytime. If I had to really pick, it kinds of quietly pops (not a backfire) when using the engine compression to slow down but I have kinda come to like that sound.

Part of the many odd but healthy superhawk sounds.
Grinding noises or obnoxious metallic clicking are red flags.

I don't know other than if it is stalling out or idling rough. I never syncd mine for 20,000 miles but I do run the idling at 13-1400 rpms to avoid periodic stalls and it works.

I've noticed high rpm vibration when the carbs are out of balance.

I wouldn't be able to argue that until I get around to syncing mine and find out if it smooths things out more, although it seems smooth to me now. The questions is, does carb sync affect operation at all positions or just at lower engine speeds? i'll have to defer to those who know for the answer to that.

If you have to ask, you need to adjust them. No, seriously if they have not been done or you don't know if they have been or not, it should be part of your regular service.

Link for a inexpensive set up: http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp

the rule of thumb is if you pull the carbs ( or do any carb work ) then resync them. imo they'd have to be pretty out of wack to notice any changes.

the sync does change a bit throughout the RPM range. some people adjust it at idle some turn it up a bit higher.

tim

You can sync the carbs at either idle or at 4k rpms. Ebay has the carb sync tools for $36 versus paying the shop $60 each time to do what you can perform in 10-15 minutes. An indispensable tool to have in your shop.

link?

This is the same company I bought my from, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carbu...motiveQ5fTools

I believe you'll need a fuel bottle also.

Nope i don't and mine is more like a 5 minute task.

Search the forum anddo the vacume line mode to run the front cylinder check point remote. Both of my lines are routed to to just behind the left frame. Simply reach in pull the lines out, remove the line plugs, hook up the dial gauges and sync with wrench.

done! no tank removal no nothing, just a gauge and a wrench.

you're the man! i will search the forum. I will be interested in learning your method. thanks.:):):)

you're the man! i will search the forum. I will be interested in learning your method. thanks.:):

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=6519

tim

thanks Tim. found it but haven't got to read it all yet. probably have to remove tank to set it up right?

see if you can find & pull down the rear cylinder vacuum line ( it's the one that runs the fuel petcock ). if not just unbolt the tank & lift it a bit... there is no need to remove it.

tim

OK, I think I'll go ahead and order the kit from the above link ebay and run the lines over and make a bracket so I'll be ready to sync when the kit arrives. thanks again, Nathan