Cams arrived today
 

The Moriwaki ST1 cams came today :cool: and here is the instruction sheet:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...y/IMGP0136.jpg

Thats probably a spec sheet (?). If I really wanted to know, I'd break out my Japanese books (if I still have them)(which would probably be more confusing, don't ask how I know this)

Anyway, I can get going on these and the Star shifter/Airfilter should come in soon. I already have the APE CCT's

haha!

I just got my Yoshi cams and the instructions are also in Japanese :)

I have the Moriwaki instruction sheet, in english I believe it you want a copy of it I can dig them out and scan it.

bill

I basically says these cams are for moriwaki piston kits or stock piston kits,they have the same diameter as the stock cams base(presumably to let you know they work with stock sprockets), to install them per your service manual instructions,the intake cams are marked IN and the exhaust are marked EX,and to make sure after you install them make sure the pistons aren't hitting the valves. It also says that the front and rear bank cams are the same,where the yoshimura are different front and rear,maybe yosh times them differently front and back.

I got 1 set (head) done tonight w/CCT:cool: . Tomorrow the other head and CCT. No jet kit/airfilter/star shifter yet:(

But I will check the throttle sensor resistance. And Ive been thinking about the spark plug resister removal mod. ~and~ since the long air stack is only $17.................................

I am not 100% certain but I think that the Yoshi's are the same for both cylinders too (there is only one set of cam profiles featured in the instructions).

Sweet, I remember getting those instructions with mine too... funny. Yep the stage 1 cam goes in just like the stock ones, I used the factory sprockets which as you know are not adjustable so it was for the most part a no brainer. Did you do a baseline dyno run?

no, :( no $ for a baseline. No $ left for a after mod either.

How does 180/182 needles set 3rd clip, 45 jets sound? I picked those up on the forum and it seems to be a common jetting?

The mods are stg 1 cams, kn filter, and the jetting. It has Leo vance slip ons.

Just be aware that Dynojet and Factory do not measure their jet sizes the same way (Factory uses same system as OEM/Keihin)...

If there is anyway to check the valve timing when you put the cams in I would recommend it. I'm sure it depends on engine mileage and individual engine tolerances, but when I put mine in using the stock sockets they were off by 2-3 degrees (can't recall specifically). While it may not sound like a lot, it is nearly the difference from stock to Moriwaki and between moriwaki and Yoshi - little differences do mean a lot in this. They may be spot on, but worth checking if you are going to all the time to do the engine work.

so Cliby did you buy the aftermarket adjustable cam sprocket? i know mine were not spot on, but really close... so I just used the stock sprockets.

OK, guys... ears are perked up.. What does camming the hawk do? I know open the exhaust or intake for longer period.. Does it make it "lope" some? Does it still run smooth, or feel like a harley at a light? Does the power come on even more sharply, or does it smooth it out some?

And how much gains can one expect? (in HP)..

And finally who's better performer... Yosh or Mori?

Stage 1 cams give about 5-7 hp, the lift does not increase, only duration which allows a little more air flow. No increased lope, bike runs really about the same. I said before the only diff I noticed was a bit harder pull and I'd outrun other SH's a little. Its not huge but it does give you an edge on similar bikes. I think the dyno showed an increase across the entire rpm range, but that was a few years ago. As for which cam... dunno. I have Mori's.

Thanks.

Every post I've seen regarding cams have all been referencing stage 1 cams. My experience is with V8 cammed cars and the spectrum there varies greatly.... does anyone have info on stage 2 or greater cams and what to expect from them?

both horsepower and driveability wise?

everybody I talked to said to just slot the stock ones, but I didn't trust my own ability to get them on a radius properly so finally found some that falicon still carries for the bike. I'm sure I was just being paranoid. I couple of degrees is a tiny adjustment so they don't need much room - if you have a die grinder you could easily elongate the hole I'm sure.

Here are the cam specs (thanks Cliby):

MORIWAKI:
Open/Close/Lift (mm)/LC (my calculations)
IN::BTDC 22/ABDC 53/10.3/105.5 (255 deg. duration)
Ex::BBDC 53/ATDC 16/10.1/108.5 (249 deg duration)

YOSH:
IN::17/53/10.7/108 (250 deg duration)
EX::55/15/10.7/110 (250 degrees duration)

Stock
IN::20/45/?/102.5 (245 duration)
EX::50/15/?/107.5 (245 duration)
From RollingAlong's post: intake @ .040 is 249 with .400 (10.16 mm) lift / ex is 272 with .435 (11 mm) lift
note the discrepancy in the numbers

Anyhow, it seems there are differences across the board in terms of duration and lift. Interestingly, it seems the Yosh cams have the same lobes on intake and exhaust, they are just timed differently.

This is meant to be a test. You have to show that you are passionate and committed enough to at least learn japanese to be allowed the honor to install these. I heard Yosh has that motto in their slogan. Yosh goes back to the days of the Samurai.

"Learn japanese if you want the speed"

Damn... guess I'll have to hand them over to my karate instructor and have him decipher them, lol

Seriously though, I e-mailed Yosh HQ in Japan and asked them if they had the sheets in English, or if they could give me an overview of the important stuff anyhow. We'll what (and if) they reply.

They might send you Reon Kadena to help with the install

I am (for now) just use the stock cam sprockets.

I measured my throttle sensor, its at 860. So I will adjust it to 500.

Still no jet kit:(

I think I messed up the jets, I think it should be 182/185. ?

Finished the cams today, only had to dick around with the front exhaust . Stripped a thread in the sprocket :evil: fixed, got it torqued and it wouldnt move :evil: :x crap, the zero was off of the torque wrench, retorqued and everythins fine, spun it over a few times and the front exhaust was off a tooth :evil: :evil: got that done, spun it over by hand a few more times checking and rechecking the front and rear cylinders.

Of course I had no problems with the rear cyl. I think its because when working on the front, Im on my knees bent over to the point my herniated disc decides that its uncomfortable and is going to make me pay for its discomfort.

Now, its on to the carb jetting. Looks like I need to take the carbs apart to get at the jets? Going by dyno jet my jet #s are going to be different as someone already said.

Still no airfilter:(

crap again:banghead: I got the jets/needle/spring/ drilled out the slide on 1 carb done, went to do the second, and while drilling out the slide, broke the flat piece on the part that has the neede spring in it. oh well, its onle $14 bucks or so.

screw itm Im gonna watch tv.

I heard about drilling the slides to help with rattle and initial throttle response... but its been years since I thought about it. Whats the benefit again? where do you drill and how big?

your buddies don't call you hamfist do they?:)

Drilling the slides is only a part of installing the Dynojet kit. You should not drill your slides unless doing the full install.

What does drilling the hole do?? I dont know. I am going to guess it changes how quickly the slide reacts under a vacuum.

Im putting the kit in per the directions, hence the drilling. I have heard that some people just put in the jets and not drill. ( that was on a Harley forum, so a little bit different carb. The slide on my Mikuni HSR42 goes up with the throttle. The VTR goes up by vacuum)

Well, now its just wait for the rest of the parts.