Anyone running hyperplates?
 

http://www.hyperplates.com/

thought these might work well with my lightened bits (flywheel, rims, rear brake rotor, sprocket and chain...)

Finished my tax return last night and have a bit of extra disposible income to play with :)

Hmmmmm......... $153.00 USD.

I am guessing that the 65% lighter claim is for the friction discs? Is that right? Because the clutch plates don't have any steel in them anyway as far as I know. I think they are ally.

So if it is only the friction discs, how much weight would it be that you saved?

Might be worth getting them if you had to replace a worn out clutch. Or had money burning a hole in your pocket. :cool:

Hi Shayne,

these are meant to replace the steel plates. I have read up on them on the Speedzilla site and folks using them (in RC51s) are happy with them and report that the engine spools up noticeably faster.

With my engine (and clutch) now having over 110,000 km, I think a clutch re-build is probalby a good idea anyhow (especially since the negine will be apart for the re-build and I''ll soon be pumping out an additional 5-10 hp and 5 lb-ft of torque through it). Plus, it falls in line with all my other efforts to reduce rotating weight.

Anyhow, as I just received a generous tax return, I decided to order a set.

Well it can't hurt, and any weight saving adds up.

I'm running them on my rc51, but installed them this winter along with another weight mod, so i cant really remember how it was running before, but it feels like its different while riding, but perhaps its the placebo effect who knows.
and yes the plates are made of alu instead of steel, i saved a few 100 grs, of rotating mass.

It ain't that generous when it's your money to begin with.;)

Good point Greg. There are years, however, where I have gotten less of my own money back so I`m quite happy anyhow.

cheers

Just ordered Barnett springs for the clutch. My rebuilt clutch will thus consist of Hyperplates, OEM fibre plates and Barnett springs. It should be more than up to the task of handling the power from the modded engine (soon to have JE high-comp pistons).

cheers

is sit necessary to drain the coolant when removing the clutch cover? i know the haynes manual says it, just didn't know for sure

Hyperplates came in yesterday (sure are light!!!!!) along with the Factory Pro detent arm kit. The latter, along with my needle bearing-mounted Jamie D shift lever and Heim joint linkage, should make for a pretty sweet shifting VTR :) As for the clutch, the Hyperplates will reduce rotating weight significantly for a faster spool-up of the engine. Me likey :)

Ok guys, here's my question......

If these plates are aluminum, how can they not contaminate the oil? That's one of the big problems with forks is that any bare aluminum will turn the fluid dark pretty quickly. Anyone who has polished aluminum knows that your compound turns black almost immediately. The only way that I know of to prevent is would be to have the plates hardcoat anodized. Is there any indication that the parts have been plated?

yep, they are hardcoat anodized. Do a Google search and you`ll find info on their site. I did a fair amount of research before ordering and they seem like a safe and durable product (only caveat is that they don`t recommend them for drag racing, but that is not in my plans anyhow).

Here you go, directly from their Web site:
"Hyperplates utilize a dual coating that has proven extremely effective in protecting aluminum drive plates from the rigors of race conditions. Hyperplates can offer the benefits of decreased weight without the worry of wear typically associated with aluminum. An excellent replacement and upgrade for that old and heavy steel technology. Hyperplates will assist with that edge you've been looking for.

65% Lighter than steel plates
Better acceleration
Improved throttle respone
Reduced inertia
Dissipate heat 10 times faster
Less clutch fade "

Do a search on the Speedzilla site, many (including a chap by the name of Thorsten who builds some rather exotic stuff) use them in bikes having much more power than the VTR and are happy with them.

I checked out their website once but didn't remember seeing anything about the hardcoat. I wonder how easy it would be to warp them. Maybe that's the "no drag racing" part.

A lot of guys on Speedzilla use them for track duty with no complaints. AS my use will largely be confined to street riding, I should be on very safe ground (I am very easy on clutches, no burn-outs or wheelies for me).

Sure is mate. Water pump has to come off first.

Did you consider getting the Factory Pro Shift Star as well? Might be worth doing while it is all disassembled.

I thought about the shift star but one has to draw the line somewhere. Besides, it shifts pretty darn well now and the detent arm isn`t in yet. Of course, I still have time to change my mind, lol

It is a quality component. I did both at the same time on my bike, and you can certainly tell the differnece in the quality of the manufacturing just by looking at them. The stock detent arm looks like a pizza cutter!!! I could not believe how poor it was for the job it has to do.

I cannot remember the exact differnces in the Shift Star compared to stock, because it was too long ago now, but I think the ramps were smoother.