another 520 qestion ..............
 

I,ve being reading up on the 520 conversion, in-regarding the gains and loss. i just need sum one to verify a few this for me. befor i get this mod done to my SH

First I'm scared s**tles trying to find out where dose my S.H top out at. people are telling me it top out about 170 on stock sprockets. is this true?

Second If i have the 520 conversion done to my SH. will lose 20mph on my top end but gain more geteuupp?

Third can sum please tell what yall think about this kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...Q5fAccessories

Well... Start by getting your facts straight... 530/520 whatever has absolutely nothing to do with top speed... It's like saying your new bling-bling rims increase the top speed...

520/530 refers to the chain size... A 520 chain is "smaller" than the stock 530 chain... It's also lighter and less strong... Swapping for a 520 setup means shorter life for the chain/sprockets and a marginal weight loss, in the order of 1-2% or so... But coupled with other mods it might actually become a measuerable difference... Who knows... Miracles do happen...

But a "520 conversion" has nothing to do with gearing, it's just a smaller chain... If you however change the gearing with different sprocket size it affects top speed... That's a real and measurable effect... But that's a "gearing change"...

The top speed of the VTR might be 170 or what-ever in theory... In practice like all the other vehicles the numbers at the end of the speedo range means squat... On a very, very long flat straight a stock VTR might hit 150-160 with perfect conditions... In most cases a stock VTR is capable of going just as fast in 5'th as in 6'th as it runs out breath before getting to the revlimiter in 6'th, while it's still powers on in 5'th until it hits the limiter...

Lowering the gearing gives more low end and less top speed, yes... How much depends on the gearing you choose... Do a quick search and you will easily find an excel spreadsheet that can calculate the exact effects on every combination imaginable...

thanx for the info, but damn i ask sumthing simple. any way the kit that im planing to buy on ebay say it : 15 tooth front 43 tooth rear. please just take a look at the link ........... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I looked at the link. You may loose a negligible amount of top speed. But you said yourself you too scared to top it out anyway. So what's the problem? The low end benefits will make the change satisfying. I haven't changed gearing that much yet but many people here seem very happy with it.

Price however seems a little too good to be true in my opinion. I wouldn't hesitate to spend that amount on a quality chain alone. They don't do a very good job of describing the products. I wouldn't jump into anything. Do some research.

I also checked out the Ebay link, and like mboe, I would be concerned about the quality of the components. It looks like the rear sprocket is aluminum......., not a bad thing, if you are very concerned about weight, but not as durable as a steel sprocket.


Rex

I've not bought anything from them, but I personally don't like their hard sell approach. They come off like experts when they are obviously not. They also point out in advantage 2 that changing your gearing to their recommendation gets your speedo back in callibration - This is blatantly wrong, so I wonder about everything else they say.

If someone does buy this, please report back on the quality

i've bought 2 of these kits. on the mechanical side i stay on top of things but chains are a bit messy... usually i'd only clean it before a trackday and thats about it. since i have all the tools i'd rather have a shorter chain life than spend time cleaning. with that said, this kit is fine for me 'cause i get a quality chain & cheaper aluminum sprockets ( i order cat5 last time ) that last about as long as my neglected chain. i do however keep the tension correct.

if your like me then it's a good deal, if you want to put 20k miles on your chain then you better not buy aluminum sprockets.

read this: i posted a couple of pictures
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14251

tim

trinc - just read though the post you linked. Looks like it has been just over two years. Still in good shape? what is your current mileage?

Max speed with a stock VTR is about 155 mph. Going with a 43 tooth rear sprocket might get you 160 mph. 520 vs. 530 has nothing whatever to do with top speed. If you're too scared to find out, why would you give a shit what the top speed is? Why would you give a shit anyhow?

"I thought about buying a VTR, but it only goes 155 mph. So I bought a bike that goes 160 mph instead!" Who even thinks like that?

Prolly a HugE percentage of the squidley types!!

Just sayin'. ;)


Rex

They used to have RK chains in these kits. I have never heard of TYC.

As for the weight advantage, Tweety mentions it is only minimal. Whilst this is true, it pays to remember that this weight reduction is in a reciprocating, and unsprung, component. It is not the same as a weight reduction on the frame somewhere, as the advantage is greater. Small weight savings in the reciprocating assembly, and any unsprung components, are always welcome, but will become more valuable when other components are lightened as well.

due to my crash at the end of '08 i've had very limited mileage... currently the sprocket has just over 6k miles & still looks good.

tim

his link listed the RK chain, where did you read TYC ?

tim

Of course it makes a difference to weight, and to handling when you remove unsprung weight... I was being slightly ironic though as I said it makes a very miniscule difference to acceleration vs topspeed... And referencing a gearing change as a better option for that...

As an over all performance upgrade it's viable though, but I prefer a 530 chain with a tri-metal rear sprocket... It's a decent compromise on weight vs wear to me... I do put on a decent amount of mileage each season on my bike both track and road...

I bought one of these kits a while back and i wasn't happpy with the rear vortex. After a few months of riding, the teeth showed wear. I couldn't believe it, esp since i never saw any sprocket deterioate that quickly. Consequently, I bought the best AFAM aluminum rear sprocket and the AFAM steel front as well. At this time. i also went to 15 front/44 rear and am happy with both the gearing and the components.

Also be aware that you will need a rivet tool to compress the rivet link or you could buy a master link and save yourself the expense of buying any special tools. You can cut the chain easily with a dremel or other cutting tool, so you really don't need a chain cutter. I did the rivet link myself, but it cost me approx $100 for a Motion Pro tool to install the rivets proprely. If you aren't careful installing the rivet link, results could be costly. Others swear by the efficacy of the master link, especially if you are not wild on the throttle.

Relative to the advantages of reducing unsprung weight of the spinning kind, I would spend my money on light weight components, i.e., wheels, tires (like the new michelin pilot pure), brake rotors, and drive train components(chains and sprockets), before just about any other mod. Benefits of the centrifugal/gyroscopic type pay huge benefits, esp when combined, in terms of everything a bike does: improves side to side flickability, stopping, accelerating, bump absorption, and the overall comfort of the ride.

That said, some riders wouldn't notice if you tied a log on the back of their bike while others are very sensitive to minor changes, so to each his own.

I have re-checked the link, and you are right. When I first looked at it I think it was expired and I was reading general info from the seller about what parts they used. They stated TYC was big manufacturer blah, blah, blah.

But it definately shows RK now, which is good. In regards to the sprocket, I got the PFTE one to get better wear from it. After about 4000 miles I could see no wear on it at all.