What Rims for my SH?
 

Hello all, just purchased my first SH (new to the site as of today). A 98 with jet kit, k&n air filter, D&D pipes, bent front rim, and a extremely stretched chain. I want to perform modifications and wondering if you folks would have input. I hear that front rims from a 95-98 cbr 600 f3 will bolt and play on the SH, is this true? I also heard that 95-97 cbr 900 rr rears rims work also, same question? This is purely cosmetic, minus the front bent rim I currently own. I would also like to do a sprocket conversion as well as upgrading to an X-ring chain (thinking -1 front, +2 rear) I know this will affect the top end, but I am in it for the torque, any thoughts on this? Thinking of putting some aftermarket turn signal mirrors also, does anyone have any suggestions? Basically I want to do a few things to it and ride it for the next couple of years, then I am hoping to go through the entire thing from front to back (including engine mods if possible), I love the v-twin powerplant compared to the 4's. All thoughts and recommendations welcomed. :D

Welcome to the forum, use the search tab, you will find allot of great info and all the know how.

welcome
wheels that fit without modification
Front 6s
Nc29 cbr400rr
Nc30 vfr400r
Nc35 rvf400
Cbr600f3

Front 3s
Firestorm
Nc23 triarm

Rear 6s
92-98 fireblade

Awesome, thanks for the info!!

What about the years for those rims?

You already know about the f3's and the rears, those other model weren't imported to the US although Canada might have gotten a few so for practical purposes they don't count.

As for the sprockets I have yet to hear a good reason to go down 1 in the front if you're going up 2 in the rear, unless you're just into wheelies or stunting which in my mind aren't good reasons to begin with.

Welcome to the forum. There have been quite a few new members from the great state of Michigan. GO BLUE!!!!!!



Tis true IMO. Go up +2 or +3 in the rear and see how you like it. I've always known +3 out back to be about equal to -1 in the front. Start with one or the other, not both.

And as far as torque goes, I don't think you're short to start with!

Is the VTR your first bike?

Sounds good on the sprockets, think I will just go up 2 or the 3 in the rear. No, this is not my first bike, it used to be my buddies. It was the first rocket style bike that I have ever rode though, I have owned a 03 R6 and a 2010 ninja. Not goin to stunt or wheelies, just want some more grunt, although it does have plenty.

The reason I run a +2 on the rear is that it gets 6th gear at @1:1 instead of an overdrive and that is the only reason. With the torque and HP of this bike nothing else is really needed or warranted.

Welcome on. Dont do -1+2or3 its way overkill & you will be redlining everywhere. You can do -1 on the front & really feel it.

Lots of opionions, thats mine. All my riding is NYC and -1 was plenty.

SmokinJoe has apoint in that he's in an urban environment and the shorter gearing probably comes in handy in cage avoidance and stop light hustling.

You however are in Michigan and you haven't said what your riding environment is. If it's not urban and has more wide open spaces riding then I still say +2 is the most you want to do. Lot's of free flowing torque and acceleration without needing to be a screamer between corners. The difference between twins and I4's!

My riding style varies, urban, country, just about everywhere and anywhere there is a road I will ride (live on the west side of michigan and ride to Detroit a lot). I got this SH to rip it up in my local twisties. It will however also go on long rides. I usually ride anywhere from 8 to 12000 miles in a season. I also own a cruiser so the SH will not be my main source for the longer rides, although it will see some longs here and there. Mainly I want to lean low an shred up the corners. Don't really care about gas range or mileage, just mainly looking for the performance aspect. Sticky tires, asphalt, and monster torque is the fun on my menu.

With slightly higher bars and cruise control, the vtr is way better than a cruiser for long miles.

Doesnt make you use your arms to pull against wind and is more ergonomic for your lower back (not slumped).

Hey I really like that seat, what is it? My cruiser is set up pretty good for long rides, mustang seat with driver back rest had to have been the best addition for myself.

Its a corbin.

Hey there folks, can you experienced SH riders and modifiers tell me is these rims will work for my SH. Check out the following links:

96 CBR900RR Rear Wheel Rim Blue Honda CBR 900 900RR CBR900 95 97 98 | eBay

3 5x17 Front Aluminium Alloy 6 Spoke Wheel Honda CBR600 F3 Super Sport 1995 1998 | eBay

The rims will work,,,period.

ahha! sounds like what i like. My recommds: 15/43 or 44, supersprox 520 set your ears back,... 190x55 Q2 stickkkkeee....squirt out of turns, yeah!:draggin::wheelie:

Nath supersprox? Is that the brand? I am soon needing sprockets & have a new 520 chain. Got my last stuff at sprocket specialist last time. What did you do on yours?

Welcome to SupersproxUSA.com

kinda the best of both worlds..lighter than steel, stronger than alum. If you go pure alum, AFAM or similar, no cheapie vortex.

I just took an AFAM off worn out at 17000.....good sprocket. I slapped on a steel 43 temporarily because i had to buy tires.haha

+1. Running one and it works great.

Nath, afam aluminum lasted 17k? Thats crazy long. I have worn thru aluminums in no time.

that's right......went thru a POS vortex in less than 3 thou. i did turn that afam around and the teeth were skinnneee.......oh carrozzeria wheels and 3 sets of power pures def helped. No way i'll get that with these heavy Q2s, but i'll pay the piper cause me love the stick.

yeah. say you get a quality Xring chain and even a superior alum sprocket like AFAM. There's no way the chain's gonna wear anywhere near the sprocket, barring serious neglect. A good chain can tear up an alum sprocket in no time.

Even with TLC you end up with a good chain and a good steel CS sprock and a shot rear sprocket. I took an 8 link piece of new chain(I cut off new) and aligned it with mine at 17000 miles on it and there was no detectable stretch, albeit, there is a little tight spot.

Anyway, it seems that the supersprox steel over alum may offer a better balanced combo in terms of wearing everything more evenly while still providing a measure of reduced unsprung spinning weight.

Okay this is what I have come up with. Curious on what you guys think as far as changing the gearing ratio. Meaning how will this affect the bike. I don't care about going 160 mph, but would like break neck acceleration when coming out I turns. Will this set up be okay for daily use, commute, as well? Thinking 15/43, I know many have said just a 43 in the rear but just wondering.

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/4730...00f-97-06.html

I love these sprockets , using them right now, good deal and last long, when you get the 520 chain, make sure you get the best of the bunch!

As for the ratio, just make up your own mind, you can go all day with opinions, but at the end of the day it is about your level of comfort ;)

Thanks, they had two different chains that I was looking at. One is a heavy duty for 1200 cc bikes the other one was for a 750, but they stated that many use these in liter bikes because of the lightweight. Is the difference that much?

looks like a good set-up. You're gonna be rippin it, so get the strongest 520 chain, esp since you got a steel sprocket. 15/43 is what you want for powering out of turns.

Well I have covered this one a couple of times but I'll try once more......

Running 15\43 is just silly IMHO. The reason I say this is if you go to a site like Gearing Commander and punch in the numbers you will see that compared to the stock 16\41 gearing you are at one gear ratio difference.

What this means is that if you are in say 3rd with 15\43 final drive you will have close enough to be called the exact same gearing as a bike with 16\41 gearing in second. Both bikes will accelerate at the same speed at that point so any gains are just a placebo.

You can go down 1 on the front or up 2 on the rear if you would like a little more punch.

Any more than that and all you get is a 1st gear that is unusable for all practical purposes and you give up your 6th gear......

For me it's just easier to down shift one and twist the throttle.....

Roger think I got it figured out.