To those with UNDER-undertail exhaust (a la ducati/yam r1)
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To those with UNDER-undertail exhaust (a la ducati/yam r1)
To those with UNDER-undertail exhaust (a la ducati/yam r1)...
1) hows the heat?
2) are you running 2-1 or 2-1-2 exhaust?
3) did you do a subframe swap?
4) could you share pics plz?
1) hows the heat?
2) are you running 2-1 or 2-1-2 exhaust?
3) did you do a subframe swap?
4) could you share pics plz?
Thats Mr Dill hole to you
Superstock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 389
From: Sioux Falls, SD Beeeotch
It appears Those fancy undertail's are all the rage ....looks like everyone's jumped on the band wagon... the Response to this inquiry is over whelming. archist May have to hire an assistant to dig though all of these people's vast knowledge of undertails.
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FTR: ive only found 1 person (bdizzle) with an actual undertail (plenty of hours of digging deep through the search results)--he has an r1 tail section modded to his bike. i think what i really meant from with the post is the opinion of those who have done precisely that. a tail swap with the accompanying exhaust, NOT a leo ultra high mount exhaust type thing--ive already seen plenty on that
evil man of nothing
MotoGP
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,516
From: Boynton Beach, FL
I have the common carbon leo high mounts 
but previous experience with exhaust in very close proximity to fairings (and common sense) tells me that if you simply line the inside of whatever tail you're using with a good heat reflective product like the sheets made by thermo tec you will not have a heat problem. I had a header almost touching a sharkskinz lower and simply glassed in (it's self adhesive but I wanted it to stay put) some of the shielding and it was only warm to the touch outside. Where the header was much farther away without the shielding the fairing was hot. It really is an amazing product that does the job. It always baffles me to see really nicely painted bikes with holes burned in the lowers because people are too lazy to use this stuff inside the fairings.
but previous experience with exhaust in very close proximity to fairings (and common sense) tells me that if you simply line the inside of whatever tail you're using with a good heat reflective product like the sheets made by thermo tec you will not have a heat problem. I had a header almost touching a sharkskinz lower and simply glassed in (it's self adhesive but I wanted it to stay put) some of the shielding and it was only warm to the touch outside. Where the header was much farther away without the shielding the fairing was hot. It really is an amazing product that does the job. It always baffles me to see really nicely painted bikes with holes burned in the lowers because people are too lazy to use this stuff inside the fairings.
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my power bronze is melted from the piping not that i was lazy, i just didnt know about the stuff.
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From: Essex, UK
Last edited by Wicky; Oct 11, 2008 at 09:45 AM.
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Squid
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 56
From: Manchester UK
Not quite finished yet but gives tou an idea. I am running 06 R1 rear end which is subframe, plastics and custom exhaust cans.The exhaust is going to mimic the Mario Nava design and will be a 2-1-2. Not got the link pipes done yet thats the next job. Enjoy
And the plan for the link pipes.
And the plan for the link pipes.
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 103
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
That looks really good vtrsteve. I'll have to take some newer pictures of mine and post them, because it's different now than the pictures i have up here. I was thinking of going the way you did vtrsteve, but i couldn't find or win a subframe on ebay, and i did not want to spend the money for a new one if it didn't work, so i fabbed upped my own subframe. I'll try to get some pics up soon.
evil man of nothing
MotoGP
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,516
From: Boynton Beach, FL
Really the company making the lowers knows how close they sit to the header-they shouldn't sell them bare inside knowing they'll burn up. They factory panels all seem to come with some sort of heat reflective lining inside them, at the least any of the ones I've seen over the years. The aftermarket ones should too.
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Squid
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 42
Wolf Racing pipes & Carbon Cans: http://www.wolfracing.co.uk/main.html
No heat from cans.....pipes get pretty hot on rear of boots which is why I installed the cheesy cruiser bike heat shields.......system attaches to stock header pipe.....no subframe swap required....some minor mods required under seat.....weighs next to nothing/sounds great/looks good (though carbon cans are fading a bit after ~10 yrs and ~30K miles)....tweaked jetting and squeezed out a tad more Hp.....I'd have to dig out the Dyno charts to remember where it wound up at....
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SuperBike
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,611
From: Belgium, WI
Honestly, I guess that if I had to do it again, I would search until I found a Moriwaki system, stick a bunch of dough into that and call it a day. Its not cheap to do, and can be very frustrating and may require alot of trial and error. I have over 10k miles on mine which entailed making my own exhaust header from the factory y pipe back, my own cans, modding the subframe, making a new undertail, etc etc. I am now remaking stuff again. trial and error.
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marmaladedad
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Apr 7, 2006 07:26 AM
