Looking for Super bright head light any help
 

I don't know why but I'm failing at finding a super bright front head light for my 98 vtr1000f. Any links to point me in the right direction!

Fit an Easternbeaver relay kit and a xenon bulb or be a Guinea pig for this bulb….

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...adlight-31560/

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The way I see it you have two options (or be a guinea pig).

1: Get an Easternbeaver relay kit and put a higher wattage halogen bulb in it. The stock wiring on these things is inefficient, so you are getting much less wattage through it than the bulbs can use. A relay kit is basically beefier wiring and will make a big difference with even a stock bulb. That plus a higher wattage bulb will make a world of difference for a lower price/effort.
H4 Kits

2: If you get a xenon bulb and want to do it correctly, you must do a projector retrofit. Dropping in a different bulb technology in reflectors designed for a halogen bulb is brighter but less controlled lighting. If you want to know more here is a good article on it:Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

Or test the LED like Wicky pointed out to (but I still suspect that it will have the same problems that xenon would).

I like the Eastern Beaver kit. Simple, plug'n'play, but haven't heard of anyone here talk too much about it.
Who has one, and, was it worth the coin ?

I like the idea of a simple solution! I used the connections from Easternbeaver for the regulator upgrade and like it a lot. Great electrical products. I'll take the plunge and do it and come back when I'm done.

I didn't do it on the Superhawk but have done a similar setup on a few cages that I've owned (this upgrade works for those too!). You can build one too with a relay and plugs, but the EB kit is nice because it everything you need (you don't save that much $ by building your own). It is absolutely worth it IMO based on these. The gf's Dodge Neon had an HID "upgrade" kit in it and I tore it out and put in a relay kit and Halogen bulb and it made a world of difference. It's anecdotal, but when you see it in person it makes sense. The reason I didn't do it in the Superhawk is I put a projector/HID in it ;).

What I might have understated is that you can use a much higher wattage bulb with it if you want to. You can upgrade the stock 60/55W with something like a 100/90W and get all of the potential light out of it. Your stock harnass isn't even providing the full wattage to the stock bulb (due to the resistance from inadequate wiring and series of connectors it has to travel through), so if you put in a 100/90W bulb in the stock bike it is brighter but not by much, and not as bright as a relay kit with a 60/55W bulb. You may find this unnecessary after putting in the relay kit, though.

+1 on the Eastern Beaver kit. Add a PIAA 60/55W bulb and get brilliant white light. The only downside I've experienced is shorter bulb life than the stock bulb.

I have the Eastern Beaver kit and run a 100/55 bulb, so I get decent lighting on low-beam (and not too much heat, a factor around town when speed is low) but high beam gives me a good blast of light when travelling through the countryside at night (but good airflow to deal with the additional heat produced on the 100W setting). A win-win.

Yes, no, no.

YES; I installed one for a SH rider... it was worth it to him.
NO; I built one myself using the same relays Eb uses, no it was not worth it to me.

NO; On my 1998 SH, with stock wiring I get 14.6v at the headlight socket..... yup, full battery voltage.. My Sylvania Ultra Bright 9003 (H4) bulb is getting all of the possible voltage my system can produce, and there is no added resistance in the OEM system limiting required amps(wattage) the bulb draws.

If I was using a higher wattage bulb (using a 55/60 watt now) say a 55/100 watt, then the relays are a need. If a user measures less than full battery voltage (key on engine running) at the headlight socket, than yes relay set up will help.

One other note, while the LED option looks expensive.. at $79,, a Sylvania Ultra Bright 9003 (H4) bulb is about $29 or so... and has a OEM rated life of 150 hours low beam, 50 hours high beam.

That LED light need only last 3 times as long to be worth it... I go through one or more Sylvania Ultra Bright 9003 (H4) bulbs a year right now on my SH alone.. then there are the ones on our GT500, GT, F350.... I'd SAVE $$$ by switching to the LED option if they last 1/10 as long as the seller states.

After those bulbs were mentioned a few days ago I've been looking into the claims that they can be dropped in standard housing and I'm not convinced they project well. There doesn't seem to be a way to adequately imitate the light output shape and spread of a Halogen bulb. Brighter, yes (although bright LED's are pretty hot... much hotter than HID's).

It's essentially trying to put a square into a round hole. It doesn't matter how efficient the square is or what color it is or how heavy it is or what it's made of. Fundamentally the shape doesn't fit and because of this it:

a) Doesn't project a pattern with the most usable light for riding.
b) Can cause glare to oncoming drivers.
c) Creates a false sense of security to the user.
d) Is illegal for these reasons (at least worth mentioning this ;))

Halogen bulb goes into halogen designed housing/projector (Superhawk)
HID bulb goes into HID projector.
LED bulb goes into LED projector.

There's always the chance that someone knows something that I don't, but this is what I've seen to date!

Interesting that you had 14.5v to your headlight, Eric! My Jeep definitely had much less (about 12.5v if I remember correctly), and I didn't even check the Hawks' before I replaced it.

I would agree, in theory, except, I've seen posted pictures of the LED bulb in a OEM housing H4 design .. and the cutoff and pattern were spot on.

Ha, me too so i built forts, then during pre install, to have a know to compare against, I measured, measured again, tested resistance, check wattage draw of a 55/60 bulb and a 55/100 bulb....
Darned if the OEM system was not providing everything possible from the system to the stock headlight plug. As I'd already built it, I installed the relay system anyway.

I've seen one on another forum review as that was very close on the Cree bulbs... I'm still not convinced enough to recommend it to someone else because I hate it when theory doesn't line up with reality! But as long as it isn't the company selling it telling me it works... I've been wrong more often than I've been right...

There are a lot of people on the YZF forum that have cut up the stock headlight housing (also H4 bulb) and put HID projectors in them, I'm actually quite suprised I don't see more of that here.

Of course there are a lot of people here that do front end swaps and that never happens on the YZF forum so I guess it just has to do with the different characteristics of the bikes.

I find the headlight in BOTH bikes to be VERY lacking (and the YZF does have a power problem to the headlight, not that the voltage and amperage drops but the wires actually get hot enough to melt connectors in some cases because the wires are too small to carry the current effectively) I tried an HID swap and it helped a TON on my bike (one of the plug and play kits) but my kit had a bad ballast or something and after 30 minutes of riding the headlight would go out I assume because the ballast overheated or something, I never could find an answer but instead just went back to the stock light.. I don't remember the last time I rode at night anyway, too many deer around here to have fun at night and I don't use the bike for commuting anymore like I used to.

So I'm a first time bike owner and looking for a easy fix to the lack of light. Any links on how to install these and where to buy?

Which of these eastern beaver kits would I need?

I run the same set-up as mik. I use a Hella 100/55 and get awesome results w/ high beam. As someone put it... I can give a pretty good sun tan if I blast oncomers w/ the brights! :eek: :p

H4 single.

Here is where I got my Hella.

HL78158 - 100/55W H4, 2,900 Lumens, 100 Hr Avg Life (NOT LEGAL FOR HIGHWAY USE)

EagerBeaver H4 Single ‘In Fairing’ Kit. He used to do an H4 ceramic bulb holder but dropped doing them. so if you want to add one you'll have to source it from elsewhere and install it yourself.

Just an interesting bit of data... That $80 LED:

how does it compare to the stock Halogen bulb?
first # halogen 2nd LED
Compared to the 100/55w Hella bulb I have been running for several years:
HL78158 - 100/55W H4, 2,900 Lumens, 100 Hr Avg Life (NOT LEGAL FOR HIGHWAY USE)


OK, I get that the LED will last longer, I want the most output!

100 hours sucks..... thats a new bulb every 2 months or less.

Extra heat from that 100 watt light sucks (and will likely melt the bucket, mount and or lens if used for long periods)

Extra amps drawn to run um sucks

Required relay system to run um sucks

Though I admit the extra light ROCKS :D

Not sure the down side is worth it to many, but no doubt a few will deal with the crap to get better light.

The better 60/55 H4s put out 1000 Lumens and last 50 hours of high beam, 150 hours low.

The LED CREE H4 replacement 1800 Lumens, 25 watts (2 amps), life span in the multiple several thousands of hours.

That LED looks good but those offroad halogens are bright,just wonder about the heat and our plastic lens? I had had a 100/130 in my 900f and it kicked ass!

Which I assume ( i know... ass u me) is on high beam. I don't roll on high beam all the time, hence I get much more than 100 hours. ;) I've been on this same bulb for several seasons (I know, I know...which doesn't apply to you, grrr). And I totally agree, I wouldn't recommend the higher wattage low beam bulbs. The relay "system" doesn't suck, simple to hook up once and done. You really don't need to buy the Eastern, just make your own and save some coin. All my.02 and YMMV.

As for total lumes output... I win ;)

I don't know of any links, but they're incredibly easy to install. If you look at a picture of the "in fairing" kit, you'll see the standard H4 three prong plug. You unplug the stock wiring harness from the bulb, plug it into the relay harness, and plug the other end of the relay harness into your new or existing bulb.

That leaves the two extra wires- red and black. Run the red wire to the positive (red) end of your battery and the black one to any metal on your frame or the battery. Zip tie all the wires in places they won't interfere with anything and you're done!

You can see what's happening with the harness. The plug is using your stock light plug as a trigger for the relay, which takes power directly from the battery (rather than through the harness). Pretty simple!

I don't think it's the case with the Cree lights we're talking about, but many of the drop in LED kits come with a cooling fan. They get pretty hot. I know for off road lights most LED bars come with a temperature regulation built inside of them (they reduce the output of the light once it overheats).

Like I said, I don't know how much of an issue it is, but LED's aren't exactly cold... it's definitely not a benefit when we're talking about car headlight output quantities.

The LED H4 Im looking at has a fan as part of the assembly.
http://www.electricalconnection.com/.../hl-led-h4.jpg

The CREE site shows temps in the 150 deg range for teh CREE CXA1507 LED used.... that is MUCH less then the temp a 100 watt H4 bulb will produce.

Yeah 150 is nothing for plastic... I wonder why the fan is necessary?

This. https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...n-27804/page3/ Doesn't require any cutting. Just need to bake open the headlight.

http://images1.snapfish.com/23232323...33772325nu0mrj

Installed a headlight relay kit from Motorcycle Headlight Relay Kits I got the one with the ceramic connector.
Did not measure voltage before or after install. I ASSume the volatage has increased. The light appears to be brighter, but since I rarely ride at night (too many critters, drunks, etc.) the increase was just a bonus. The issue of running all the current through that little switch was the real motivation. Long term reliability.

Have not seen these mentioned <b>Osram Rallye 70/65w +50 H4 bulb</b> 64205
The possibility of overheating the housing, lens, and connector is a concern in my mind. I could be wrong, have been before.

Using an expensive, higher wattage bulb seems pound foolish without the electrical upgrades to get real change and reliability.

Life span of the LEd, and lumens available as well i think from reading the CREE tech data.

Life span is shortened if overheated, and light output is less as temp goes up..

The Retrofit Source. Bi-Xenon. They put out a lot of light and aren't too difficult to DIY.