aftermarket Master Cylinders?
 

Anybody tried these:
Clutch Silver Brake Lever Master Cylinder Reservoir Fit For Honda VTR1000F 98-05 | eBay

They're aftermarket M/C for both the clutch & front brake, kinda like the 05 models?

Please post your opinions/thoughts?
Thanks,

Hesitant to post as I don't have an answer to your question.
They look nice, except for being spoiled by "Racing" on the reserve cover.
At that price your not out much if they turn out to be complete junk.

Unless they cause a crash.

Brembo 19 RCS Clone POS
 

Brembo 19 RCS Radial Brake Master Cylinder For Kawasaki Z1000 SX Z800 ZX-10R | eBay

I bought one of these and ended up having to completely rebuild it and machine bits to make it serviceable but have not tested it yet. I ended up getting refunded the price which still does not cover my time even at $5 per hour LOL. I kept at it just to see if I could make it work.

Others have done the same thing.

customretro: A look at Chinese Brembo Master Cylinder Copies

fake Chinese Brembo copies

And it did not come with the brake light switch as indicated or use Brembo 1.0 thread pitch fittings, which is actually a good thing because the OEM Honda banjo bolt will work with it.

It's as if they had some photos of a real Brembo 19 RCS but only from certain angle views to work from. For example, the lever was supposed to pivot in case of a tip-over but only one side of the clevis was radius-ed so it could not flip up or down. Just Weird and even it I can get it to work I don't know if I'd trust it. better to get a real unit...

Hmmm... On further examination, I'd pass.
A clear case of "you get what you pay for".

Build issues aside, if you are running stock calipers, a Brembo 19- RCS will not improve your braking. In fact. it will reduce your braking power (way too big for the stock caliper pistons). Your lever will be firm as f**k, but braking power will drop dramatically....

I've been running the CBR600F4i calipers for eons, first with the SP1 MC and for much longer the SP2 MC. After rebuilding the calipers last year and installing EBC pedal rotors front and rear (105,000 miles was not too bad for the original rotors), I've had iffy MC feel and stopping power with too much and inconsistent MC lever travel. When I pull the MC lever statically I hear a click from the left caliper as if one or both pistons on one side has retracted back into the bore more than the others, and then jumps out when pressure is applied (and retracts back again when I release the lever). I need to have someone pull the MC lever while I see if I can slide a piece of paper between the pads and rotor, or at least try close-up to better determine what I'm actually hearing. I could be one or more pistons and/or the MC; which probably has 45,000 or more miles on it. I have the OEM MC and the SP1 MC to install to test functionality but the noise from the left caliper makes me think it may also be an issue with the rebuild. I installed new O rings after a careful cleaning, and did my normal refill and vacuum bleeding, then did the prescribed pad bed-in but stopping power and feel are just off.

Thoughts?

Caliper pistons and bores worn a bit and the piston is slightly cocked in the bore? Or calipers have reached the end of their service life?
I assuming that it's not the rotor float making the noise.

I checked the cylinders and pistons when I replaced all the seals, and all the pistons seemed to be retracting and extending properly but I can't yet be sure without another set of hands (as I said). I know the rotors are true and square drive buttons are free.

I just bought them, they are decent and look good but there was a few chips where the black paint is and where the lever bolts the perch is plastic. Also I'm not sure if they are rebuildable. If I were to do it again I would research better for an oe master cylinder with reservoir integrated

Are you saying that the ears where the levers pivot are made of plastic rather than metal? If I've got that right, I wouldn't put them on my bike.

Yes plastic where lever mounts to master

Just to confirm, for those of you with F4i calipers: They are a direct bolt on? I thought I recall someone saying something about light machining?

Yes F4/F4i/929/954/SP1/SP2 calipers need a little massaging to make room for the lower fork mount. The stock calipers are narrower between the pistons, where the F4 etc do not narrow at all. You can either remove some material from the caliper or from the mount on the fork leg. I did the latter with a hand file, 5 minutes work per side, leaving the visible outside untouched, and carving a small step into the mount behind that.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sup...03cfd202b6.jpg

Think I'd find other places to save money besides my brakes... Sorry I'm far from Daddy Warbucks but I'll pass on Chinese RRRRRacing brake components...

That aside, what's the point over what you have now?

Stay away from Chinese Crap when it comes to brakes!

Trust me I know, a cheap set of Chinese adjustable levers almost killed me when I did I my USD swap.

F Chinese cheap crap !

This is all that needs done. I used a dremel, but a file would work just as well. The area between the black dots is where material needs to be removed. Good upgrade, works with stock MC, but a lot better with a MC with a larger bore (17mm). Makes the ratio to the calipers more favorable.
Attachment 31950

I agree with Xeris on this; the 954/SP2 caliper and master are a better set-up than the F4i, the 954 uses a larger master/smaller caliper pistons, and IMO has better feel than the F4i which has larger caliper pistons/smaller master. The latter provides maybe too much hydraulic advantage and makes for a grabbier brake. Some may prefer that, but I like the 954 set-up better, I do have an F4i set on my VFR800 but with a larger (CBR600RR) master replacing the F4i master.