another n00b - from WI
 

I was the one that picked up superhen's '98 Streetfighter Hawk (with the fender as a flyscreen).

I've browsed your forums once in a while throughout the years and I see it is quite a great resource for SH owners! So much so...it lead me to buy into one.

I have some plans for my 7th Honda.
I hope to convert this one to a track/street bike and sell my track-only F3 and then possibly my '02 CBR1100xx.

I will pull the complete F4i front end off the F3 and move it to the Hawk.
(Traxxion Dynamics 1.05 springs / traxxion shim stacks / Galfer lines / Galfer race pads / F4i wheels & calipers / EBC rotors)

I have ordered an F4 shock from Daugherty Motorsports for the Hawk. :D
I picked up a race upper and tail from Stumpy shortly after getting the hawk.
Ordered some LED blinkers for the upper.
New AllBallz steering head bearings are here.


Now, I need to figure what else to do....
Do I get manual CCT adjusters?
Do I get Dr Honda velocity stacks? (I don't know if this thing is even jetted)
Do I get an RX-1N Koso gauge or try to piece together the hacked gauges that came with the Hawk?
Do I need a new R/R?

I need a fairing stay - anyone have an OEM or suggest an aftermarket?

It also appears that I need all the mounts/bolts for an upper fairing, too.

ordered the Kreiger CCTs
researching the R/R. sounds like you guys really suggest that be replaced.

Welcome aboard!

we don't typically allow people from Wisconsin on this forum. Their too friendly, drink too much and have wedge shaped heads. We'll make an exception in this case if you promise to keep up those good habits. Welcome!:)

Hey! My head's only kinda wedge shaped! If you sell the XX I call dibs!

Welcome
It sounds like you have a good idea what you need or should I say want.

thanks for the welcome !

I promise to keep the wedge-shaped head in these parts :)

@kendrick - hehe...might be springtime before I get around to deciding on that. she's been a great bike to me. RaceTech 1.0 springs, gold valves / jaws preload adj. / speedohealer / power commander / pair delete / modulating head & tail ligts / throttlemiester / always Repsol Synth / K&N filters / saw 3 or 4 trackdays / crash free / Ixil Ti Race oval pipes

@D - well, I'm convinced there are always certain things that just need to be done with a bike. 'specially after you've been riding for a while, or intend on track riding.

I may still have some n00b questions as this is a new model to me.
....like....where do find the mounting stuff for the fairings?? nuttin on ebay...

And keep this around too ;)

Ceann - Pabst Blue Ribbon - YouTube

This is a pretty inexpensive OEM parts site:

Hollister, California, Honda, Motorcycles, ShoreLand’r, ATVs, Watercraft, Utility Vehicle,Trailers, Dealer, Used, Parts

and a big +1 for CCT's and R/R. Check out tweety's MOSFET R/R thread if you're a little fuzzy on what you want

@7moore7 - <phwew> I read that thread. my head kinda hurts.
I'd definately will look at the mosfet version and replace connectors and wires where I can.

Velcome 2 d'neighborhood!

See red below

Look into a cbr gauge swap, also...

@skokievtr - nice post! couple "?" 4 ya.

1-what do you mean by "but try a RC51 SP2 MC"? - you mean a master cylinder? If so, I'm using a ZX7 master with remote res. right now (I know...the blemmish of all blemmishes)

2-I have some resistors already, but PO may have a relay in there already (according to another post he had in here). I just wanted a basic blinky to do some street riding.

-taking notes on torque and have been shopping R/R's.
-I need some seat time to see how this thing runs, but it's beer season here. I may need to take it in to be tuned, if I do, I think I'd opt for the alum. stacks.


and a 2nd 'dibs' on the XX....LOL. interesting that it is still sought after.
I went to the crud-run the last couple years and I see people pointing at it and whispering to other people, then they would walk over and start the usual questions..."How fast have you gone on it?" - "Does it handle well?" - "How much does it weight?"...etc

looking at the schemo, is this a list of what I need to mount a track plastic (no headlight - one piece upper).

4 - #32 (fairing screw)
2 - #44 (frame-side screw for stay)
1 - #12 (L stay)
1 - #13(R stay)
2 - zip ties for the mirror holes (to main fairing stay)

do I need #10/#11 (stays) and another set of #44 screws? (are there 4 stays to mount the upper?)

pulled the fender/flyscreen off and started to clip zip-ties all over.
found out the wiring harness is still intact and looks like the gauge plugs are ready to go. blinker plugs are there and I think the headlight plug?

I also pulled the tail section off to see what I had for an R/R...looks like the OE, so off to get a mosfet version.

I measured the opening (center bolt to center bolt) of the front fairing stay, seems to be 50mm. still hoping to find an OE for cheap, but may just opt for the GPTech (if it fits).

bought a mosfet R/R
FH012AA on ebay. comes with waterproof connectors.
WOOT!

found a deal on an OE upper fairing stay/bracket ($50)
another deal on OE hawk gauges ($60)

CCT's, R/R, blinkers, resistors, bag-o-bolts, spare windscreen = all here.

still trying to find those fairing stays on ebay....starting to look like they are the 'fish-lips' of this bike ?

Jamie said the shock is done - paid - and should be in the mail !

Pretty much done with the new-2-me Hawk.

1st track day may be this Wednesday. I need to hit up my suspension guys at the track to check/set sag, then I can start slowly opening this up.

I'm loving the sound of this thing! OMG this is awesome!

Looks like my sig is up to date.

To Do:
Sharkskin lower - Shindy(?) or some other damper
Swap out coolant for Engine Ice
paint & various stickers.

Also got the rim stripes on and a tank sticker that gets a lot of comments :)

sounds like you're ready. Might wanna think about t-rex sliders. Are your galfer fronts the ceramic sintered 1375s?

Hey have you put some miles on the bike? Does it survive with just the single front rad? I am thinking of adding a front ( but keeping the sides). Is it a stock left rad?

nath981 - um...in the race pads, Galfer had 2 options iirc. it was the 1375's and another one. one was more reasonable with cost. I went with those. kind of brick-ish until they get heat in them.

smokinjoe - no miles yet, just a little tootle around my block. PO did the single mod.
left or right....hmmm...it's the one with a radiator cap? I guess I would need a reference point as this bike is new to me. It is a SH rad, btw, and I have the other one in the garage so, I might be able to figure out left/right for you.

I didn't anticipate too much city/street riding (if at all), so with a single rad, moving will be imperative.

edit: Forgot the wonderful product from Eric (Woodcraft), in my sig

not sure about frame sliders.
I had them on my f3 trackbike...low-sided at Putnam. when the bike got to the grass = FLIP. Causing even more damage. luckily the frame-mount didn't break.

A lot of racers & regular trackday guys I know have had the same experience. Not always, but enough that it becomes a discussion akin to 'what oil should I use?'.

Oh, so as you pull up to the unexpected stopped traffic you will just turn the bike off and push the next few miles? That sounds like a plan......

Can only lead to great unhappiness.......IMHO

just about playing probabilities. You see bikes slide and flip w/o em too.

I just got a set of 1375s(white ceramic back) but didn't get em on yet.

I never said it was a great plan :eek:

So far, its a trackbike. As time goes, it might get street duty. Most of my street rides are in alphabet soup in the rolling hills of sw wi. Very little to no traffic even, 'cept for gas in podunk towns.

I'll get a good idea how the single rad does very soon. If this previous mod sucks....then its back to dual rads or a bigger single?

I had to look at my old orders...but, yes. 1375's.
for some reason I thought it was a set above this.

so far, very good pads on my 1st trackday with the SH.

from Galfers site:
1375 HH Track
Aggressive performance
Track day/privateer racer
Street use ok, but 1370 is better
Requires higher brake heat to work well

My Trackday @ Blackhawk Farms in South Beloit, Ill
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Sessions 1 & 2, I took it easy. (signed up for novice instead of Intermediate). I slowly brought the revs up in the 2 sessions. Same with speeds. Each time back in the pits, I got down and looked everywhere for any leaks or anything loose.

My GiPro gear indicator programmed itself (as it should have?). That was nice to have - getting used to the SH and the low-end torque.

The drive out the turns was awesome - I had a number of the control-riders telling me "that thing really pulls hard. I had a tough time catching you". 2 of them were on 600's, one on a 675.

After the 3rd session, I decided to put the lap-timer on and see where I was at. My last few TD's here were on my CBR-XX. At this track, I usually ran 1:30-1:33's...and only did 1 TD a year. Last year I had a track-prepped F3. I ran 1:38' as best laps for two different trackdays. I found that odd, but I felt HUGE on the bike and it was hard to find a comfortable position to ride it.

So, session 4, I clocked a 1:36. After the 4th session, I finally got my appt with the suspension guys and they dialed in the JD shock. Compression is all the way in right now...I had the street build, so I may have skimped a little too much there...? It is very close though.
5th session = number of 1:36's. 6th session = a 1:32!

So, in one day, I was almost back to my usual pace. That kind of made my day. The bike handled well. I felt good on it. Tires held great for a cooler day (mid 50's). The Rosso Corsas had very even (and barely noticable) wear. They didn't get a lot of heat in them, though (125rear/110front) after my best session. I was running with 32/32 cold psi.

The next time I get to that track, I hope to match my 1:30's or maybe set a personal best. I have 2.5 seconds to shave.
--------

I might be doing Road America next. Need to see if the wifey will let me spend the $200 fee (+gas, +hotel...)....?
My 1st time there was on the XX - it was my first TD. I got bumped to "I" just after lunch. I was running 3:01-3:03's by the end of the day.My goal might be to match that, but the SH doesn't have the top-end like the XX....so, we'll have to see.
----------

So far - I'm loving this thing!!

thanks for checking!

i think the set above the 1375 is carbon, but i'm glad to hear they worked well. Haven't got mine on the front yet but soon.

Sounds like it was a fun track day. Cold days like 50s might warrant lower pressures like 28 rear 30 front to get a little more heat in em and maybe help rear suspension as well. It's def worth experimenting.

the hawk's torque makes it a fun bike to rip out of the corners, esp nice when you slow too much for the apex, which isn't hard to do with all that engine brakin haulin you down fast, and you can easily find yourself one gear higher than optimum for drive out. Now if we could get rid of 75 pounds, this bike could really kick ass huh.

nath981 - I thought about doing a -1/+2 in gearing...that alone would have given me even faster accel out of the turns, & all other things the same, may have got me another second for the 7 turn track.

I noticed, exiting turn 7 (second gear), I had a little stumble in the carbs...about 4k-4.5k rpm each time I came out. I'm not sure what that's about, but no big deal, the rest of the range worked well.

next one up in the Galfer line is a carbon pad. I couldn't justify the $ for those.:eek:

Road A is out for May 4th for me = :( Scheduling issues.
Next day out should be end of May at Autobahn Country Club. :)
--------------
FYI:

1054 Semi Metallic / Cheap / Good for street riding / OEM on most bikes

1370 HH Sintered Metal Compound / Performance oriented / Heavy street use or light track day / For bigger bikes / OEM on newest liter + bikes

1375 HH Track / Aggressive performance / Track day/privateer racer / Street use ok, but 1370 is better / Requires higher brake heat to work well

1371-HH-Rear / Similar to 1370 but formulated specifically for rear application

1003-Full Race Carbon Pad / NOT for street use or bikes under 600cc / Grabby when cold / Requires high heat to work, the hotter the better

1532-Organic Kevlar Compound / Softest pad, least wear on rotors / Strong initial bite / Handles all the heat you can throw at it, but works right out of the garage / Ideal for road racing for lighter bikes

1300-Sintered Ceramic / Alternative to 1003 compound, same friction rating w/out the warm up time / For pro level riders who want more initial bite / For pro to semi-pro road racing & super motard

here was some info I put together a while ago looking at brake pads and talking to track guys & Am racers:

So, here are my best choices so far....according to me ~ for 'performance' track use
Vesrah RJL ~ $80 full set?
Galfer 1375 ~ $85-ish full set
(CL)Carbone Lorraine SBK5 ~ $65 full set

pricey options:
Galfer 1003 race ~ $180
EBC Extreme Pro ~ $136
FERODO XRAC SNTRGRP ~ $160
CL C59 race ~ $105
Performance Friction 95/99 ~ $120

ordered a new Sharkskin race lower - it shipped today!