vtr cutting out
 

Right here goes i have a 1998 vtr firestorm which on occasions cuts out, usually at juctions or traffic lights, its starts up stright away after and might not do it for ages, then all of a sudden with no warning cuts out again again starting up with no problem. Could this be the R/R or something else. I dont have any problems with clocks or lights going off which ive been told is a common problem if the R/R is on its way out. Any help would be great....

Make sure your idle is set at 1200rpm's.

does it only cut out when you have the clutch pulled in?

No it even cuts out if i let it tick over now and again, going to increase the tick over just to see if it makes any diffrence

They talk funny over the pond :) . I'm guessing tick over is what we call idle?

Forgot to welcome you to the forum. Post up if you still have trouble with her.

It's ok, i watch a lot of Top Gear so i'm fluent by now :).

i was going to say check the idle speed. Mine will cut out now and then but only when i have the clutch in. I haven't rejetted after the high mount cans went on... i was thinking that might be the culprit here as well.

I keep the idle speed set to 1,000 rpm without the annoying stall problem. It has happened before several times, but always in the time after jetting changes but before I have had the time to tweak the pilot mixture screws. In my experience with this bike, adjusting the fuel screws properly while the engine is idling (at tickover) goes a long way in stabilizing the mimimum rpm.

Cheers guys, Its the Yorkshire coming out of me. I've now altered the idle, let see if it make the diffrence. I usually visit the states in Feb, for bike week in daytona but this year had to change due to travel company going bust.

I read in ozfirestorm that it is to do with the carburetor synchronization.
Mine has been doing the same. So I just made up this tool http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp and proceeded to sync the carbs by following this http://ozfirestorm.proboards.com/ind...ad=1165&page=1 will need to find out during the week whether it has done the job.

The hardest part was trying to make some thing to fit where the 5mm allen head screw at the base of the front cylinder is, to connect the air tube.

Robo - Welcome to the forum, and thanks for the tip on the sync tool. I'm going to make myself one. Your second link is best understood in the original Klingon - http://www.superhawk996.net/
The Greg ozfirestorm refers to is the one who runs this forum.

Great to have you on board

Thanks Stevebis1. I'll give that site a good read.:)

When making the final adjustment of the pilot mixture screws at tick over, what exactly should we be trying to achieve by doing that, apart from getting the air petrol mix correct. What I'm trying to say is, is there a way of knowing we've got that final adjustment right?

Cheers,

Chris.

exhaust note variation
 

What you are looking to accomplish is setting the mixture screws to achieve the highest RPM. I do this by listening to the engine while SLOWLY turning one screw. I usually start turning one IN first until the engine starts to really noticeably drop in RPM due to overly lean condition. Then I go back the other way, counting the 1/16 turns until I reach the point where the engines stumbles slightly again. Now I have the RPM drop point where RICH is the cause. This gives me the range where the pilot screws COULD be set correctly, and I know that if I go anywhere beyond that range the engine will run poorly.

Then divide the number of 1/16 turns in half and turn the screw back that amount to reach the median. Repeat for the other screw.

Each screw may have a different median range, and that is OK. Do not be too concerned with differences in Front to Rear settings. THEY DO NOT NEED TO BE THE SAME since each cylinder has slightly different fueling requirements. These requirements will change with normal engine wear (valve lash, carbon deposits, etc.)

This point could be used as final if a person was not too picky or simply does not have enough time to deal with it on that particular occasion (or if very lazy!).

I then go back to the first screw and while turning IN (lean) one 16th at a time, listen to the exhaust note. I am trying to find the point where the rhythm sounds the most even. Kinda like a drummer hammering on his set at a steady pace. If I go one or two notches beyond the right setting the "drums" will sound to be suddenly out of synchronization.

Another way of going about it is to lower the idle speed, using the idle set screw, as far as you can get it without killing the engine. Then start adjusting the pilot screws by ear. If you get more than half a turn in or out without killing the engine then lower the idle speed a again (black plastic knob) to the point just before the engine stalls out. Do this until you can not get the engine to idle any lower and you should have the best settings possible.
Return the idle speed to 1,200 RPM and you should be happy for quite some time.

There are other ways of adjusting the mixture screws, but this way has worked out the best for me. The engine idles reliably at 1,000 RPM, does not die when I pull in the clutch while slowing from high speed, and reduces the CLUNK when going from neutral into first gear (lowered idle RPM).

Many thanks Tim (BeerHunter) for taking the time to post that reply, not the easiest of procedures to describe.

That's the best explanation I've seen yet!!!

Cheers,

Chris.

It is nice to be able to help out occasionally. Having a loud exhaust system amplifies the changes made by the tweaks to the pilot screws. :burnout:

beerhunter, what tool do you use to adjust your mix screws? I have been looking for a relatively inexpensive 90 degree screw driver for mine as I have already slotted my mix screws.

Is this a thread jack?...sorry

I ponied up for the relatively expensive Motion Pro tool. It is around $100 at many on-line retailers. The "D" shaped socket included in the tool kit is somewhat thick-walled, so slotting the screw heads and using the proper driver bit would work very well. For me, I filed down the outside of the thick socket to get the proper clearance.

That motion pro 90 deg tool with the blue anodized parts is top notch.
good quality tool, used the hell out of mine so far.
Wouldnt(couldnt) touch goldwing carbs without one.

Yeah I should pick up the motion pro tool sometime too. Also for build it yourself sync tools I made mine from some cheap vacuum gauges on ebay. Then used the motion pro in-line insert that reduces bounce, and this is what you get for under $30.

Gauges are NOSHOK brand made in germany and seem to be good quality.