Sandyback

Saige, many thanks for your quick reply. That's a relief

My winter project includes manual CCT mod, the R/R mod, full service and I should be good to go.

Wolverine

Updated post #1.

twist

OK, I'm ready to do the swap, but I have a question: is there a way to tell pos & neg on the R1 RR and does it matter what order the yellow wires plug in? I know the pix show everything wired up but I'm wanting to be certain about wire placement so I don't inflict damage to my bike.

7moore7

Yellow wires don't matter. Positive toward the inside, negative toward the outside.

twist

this seems directly opposite of the connection used by Hawkrider
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...er-swap-14380/
This part was pricy and I don't want to blow it up or my battery and other parts. I want to be certain I'm connecting everything right!

twist

OK, now I feel totally stoooopid. I posted before I saw your reply, 7more7.
Thanks for replying. It seems to reason that I would fit the wires same as oem connections, red to inside, but I want to be sure. BTW, what would be the result of reversing the power wires? (I have to plead confusion from my earlier encounter with a deer).

Tweety

Well, first a whole lot of nothing, then when you get frustrated enough, and look at the main fuse, you will find that it's burnt... That's about it really... Then you change the fuse and start over with the wires in the right place...

Wolverine

After viewing that ^, I see why you are confused. This is correct:


Guess I should edit out that diagram to end confusion, yes?

Tweety

Actually, both are correct... Albeit the first one is confusing, it's still correct... One is looking at the R/R, the other at the plugs...

Have a look at the little image and note the notches on the connectors, and then look at the photo below...

If you move the two connectors in the opposite orientation, ie swap them over, you get a better representation, still correct, but less confusing, as it then becomes more obvious that it's the connectors we are looking at...

Tweety

Or make it dummy proof... Black connector, positive wire on the end with double notches/cutouts... Negative wire on the end with a single notch/cutout...

Instead of "inside/outside" which only works if you look at the R/R, and not the wiring...

7moore7

I think we need a clever acronym about wire color placement on the R/R. Or maybe a song.

Righty tighty, lefty loosy!
Stalactites hang tightly from the ceiling. Stalagmites MIGHT... but they don't.

^ Something along those lines.

jdavidc85

I recently did this mod. Everytjing seems to be fine but my volt meter seems to be reading 15.1-15.6 volts when i check it after a ride with engine on? Is this normal? If not, in the thread it showz a green earth wire attatched to mounting bolt. I dont remember a any wire being attatchedto my stocker. Does the 03 have the earth wire as well? if so and its not attatched could this be my problem? Thanks for any info guys

Tweety

No, it's definetly not normal, that voltage is enough to slowly kill your battery, and rather quickly damage the electronics on the bike...

And yes, there should be a green wire that grounds to the frame close to the R/R on all years, but it's defiently not the entire problem...

jdavidc85

So i can run my own ground to the frame then right? Also any idea as to what could be making the voltage high? A loose connection On one of the pulse wires ?

Cyfac0183

So if an ebay R1 RR is roughly $40 and the connectors are roughly $25 and that involves cutting wires etc. is there any reason why this wouldnt be a good option? I understand that is essentially an additionaly $30, but... it should be every bit as good right? 1998 Honda VTR1000 SuperHawkStreet Bike OEM Style Honda Rectifier-Regulator Aftermarket Parts

I am just trying to get a better understanding.

Thanks

Craig

7moore7

Nope, definitely not as good. Even the older r6 regulator isn't the best option now because it's a shunt based one as well (just with huge fins). There doesn't exist a plug and play option that is optimal. It's about the technology inside of the unit. This thread will help understand more:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/

Cyfac0183

Thanks for the info- i went with the r1 rr and the connector kit from eager beaver or whatever that site is. and.. i saved some monies as well- now- i just have to sit and wait for everything to show up- and stare at my superhawk - stranded in the garage.

Craig

thedeatons

Question: the diagram above should be the same for the 04-05 zx10 regulator/rectifier i picked up, correct? Part number FH010BA.

It is low profile with cooling fins, and has a 3 pin gray connector, and a 2 pin black connector.

Thanks!
James

Cyfac0183

Another question. I did the r1 swap. How hot do these r/r get lets say... on a 30 min ride? Like really hot to the touch?

Just curious. Want to make sure I am not going to catch on fire

jonjonsocal

I dont think this diagram is correct, by looking at the pictures it looks like the green goes where the red dot is on this post..

Wolverine

It is actually correct jonjon as stated in an earlier post somewhere. Imagine unplugging the socket and looking "up in" it.


Note position of red wire and green in the black plug.

jonjonsocal

So the green wire (while plugged in) is on the outside of the r/r... Right? Also are they supposed to get some what hot pretty quick? Thanks i just did mine.

bigborer

Do you think a fh022ba would fit the 'storm? It'd be coming from a later mt10/r1

E.Marquez

It has a funky plug, no idea where bouts can source one other then cutting the connector from a wiring harness.

Its not an RR I have data on, so im not sure what the control circuit is, or wither it is thyristors, diodes, and MOS FETs, no idea what the rated capacity is, or if it is switched or shunt design.

Also don't know if they are prone to failure, or known to be robust when used on a VTR. so its a big if over all....

FH020AA / FH012AA is common, cheap used, and decent priced new, known to work well on this bike and known to be trouble free over all on all bikes it came on..they just are not known to fail... There is a lot written on the install of one making it pain free to do.

Folks have installed all manner of RRs on this bike, some work, some fail... BUT the FH022BA is an unknown, so

bigborer

Thanks!
In this case, I'd stick with the FH020AA / FH012AA.
The only advantage of FH022BA would have been it coming off a newer/lower mileage bike.

E.Marquez

Ive bought and used dozens of take off FH020AA / FH012AA. RR's Tested them all before use and all fine, tested after install or sale, all fine, and not a single one has been reported back as failed in a lot of years now. So long as it test and works fine on install, the install is done correctly I think there is no issue with a used FH020AA / FH012AA. Quality of the install is key

Wolverine

I agree 1000%

bigborer

How long do you think this job should take? Taking off the rear cowl, fitting the the "new" rectifier, cutting and soldering, mounting everything back up?

john the red

I'm expecting it to take me about an hour. This is taking my time and making sure I get it right. This will be the first time for me to "dig into" mine, so it may take longer as I am very curious when taking things apart. I will be able to let you know exactly next week, as I am installing one that I ordered from E.Marquez.

Then there's the MCCTs......

Wolverine

Completely depends on how efficient you are with your time. Don't rush it, get it right the first time.