oicdn

For people who are curious, I searched and couldn't find anything....here's a list of cross referenced oil filters we can use on our Hawk.

I will never again, goto a dealer to buy a filter and dino oil (non-syn) for $25 ever again.....Well, atleast they helped me get a part number so I can cross reference stuff.....a buddy helped me find this info:

These Oil Filters
have 20 x 1.5mm threads,
14 psi by-pass valve,
anti-drain back valve,
2.3" O.D. gasket
2.5" to 3.5" long.
If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters.

Motorcycle Filters.
None are recommended.

* AC Delco PF2135
* AMSOil SMF103
* Carquest 85358
* FRAM PH6017A
* Honda 15410-MCJ-000
* K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal.
* NAPA Gold 1358
* Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator.
* STP SMO 17
* WIX 51358

Recommended filters.
All have superior
filtering.

About 2.5 inches long.

* Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
* Mobil M1-108, about $12.
Made by Champion.
* Bosch 3300, about $6.
Made by Champion.


About 3.25 inches long.

* Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
* Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
Made by Champion.
* Bosch 3323, about $6.
Made By Champion.
* WalMart SuperTech ST7317,
about $2. Made by Champion.

Automobile Filters, about 2.5 inches long.

* AC Delco PF1237
* Baldwin B1400
* Firestone TF2876
* Hastings LF113
* NAPA Gold 1365
* Purolator L14612
* STP S-02876
* WalMart SuperTech ST6607
* WIX 51365

Automobile Filters,
about 3.25 inches long.

* AC Delco PF-2057
* Auto Pro 2356
* Autopride CF240AP
* Baldwin B1402
* Carquest 85356
* Carquest Red B4620
* Casite CF240
* Castrol 7317
* Champion Labs Ph2867
* Defense Filters Dl7317
* Deutsch D-370
* Federated Filters LF240F
* Fram Double Guard DG7317
* Fram PH7317
* Fram Tough Guard TG7317
* Fram Xtra Guard XG7317
* Group 7 V4610
* Group 7 V4620
* Hastings LF240
* Mighty M4612
* Motorcraft Long Life FL-821
* Napa FIL1356
* Napa Gold 1356
* Parts Plus PH2867
* Pennzoil PZ-109
* Penske 7317
* Powerflo SL14610
* Powerflo SL14620
* Pro Gauge PGO-4620
* Pro Tec 164
* Promotive PH4610
* Pronto PO3593A
* Purolator L14610
* Service Champ OF-4622
* Shell SH48
* Shell SH529
* Stp S-02867.
* Valvoline VO50
* Warner PH2867
* Wix 51356

-----------------------------------
Hope this helps...now you can just goto Autzone or whatever and snag up some filters...might help out the SHawk noobs (such as myself)

Randman

so what you are saying is, you can use any of these filters on the bike...Does it matter what yr?

What kind of Oil do most folks use?? Just curious....The original owner only ran Honda regular through it...first 5500 miles, now I have it and want to change to a semi-senthetic.....Any suggestions on Brands (opening can of worms, standing back!!).....lol....

oicdn

The Superhawk has been unchanged since 98, filter wise, and for the most part, overall.

So yeah, don't buy into the "Motorcycle filter" hype. And deinfitly avoid a Fram. A guy ont eh R6 forum bought a ton of filters and just hacked away at them for the filtering element, and found that Frams, was almost like running no filter at all, lol.

The reason I posted this was because on my previous bike, there was cross referencing for everything, R1 throttle tube for a quick turn throttle, R1 fork conversions, and for oil filters, it was a Mazda MX3 V6 oil filter. I'm all about using what works.

The oil debate is mainly preference. I use Mobil 1, as it's proven and readily available. Some people swear by Royal Purple, Motul, etc....I'll stick to the best that I can get EASILY...Mobil one can be had at Walmart, and even grocery stores...so I'll stick to that.

But yeah...this is a cross reference to oil filters that can be used on the hawk, that can be found at the local auto store....

Randman

That is freaking awesome!! Nice job on the research!!

I was leaning towards the Mobil 1....

Correct me if I am wrong, but I was reading that with synthetics it doesn't matter if it is made for cars, or motorcycles it should work well....ie the same Mobil 1 that you would put in your car will work fine for the bike....

Also----what weight should I go with, as I live in Tx, it is winter now(that's a joke) but it should be mild...and the summers are Dadgum hot...well at least for me they are.....10W40?? 10W50?? or is there a better one to go with....

Thanks for the help....

oicdn

I would go 10w40. I live in Florida, and it's like you, winter is a joke. And the summers, it's like driving in a blow dryer...

Don't also buy into the hype of Motorcycle oil. Oil is oil in that respect.






See the difference besides the weight? When you get oil, make sure it's #2. You find that seal on the back of the bottle or jug of oil. You don't want oil that has the Energy Conserving on the bottom portion of the API seal. The energy conserving oil has preservation detergents in it that are harmful to your clutch. Stay away from this, as it will make your clutch feel like it's slipping all over the place, and it's a PITA to flush out even over time with using the correct oil.

9 times outta 10, with the heavier weight oils, you won't have the energy conserving status on it for the obvious reasons, lol. But check the back anyways anyways just to be sure.

Hopefully this helps out.....

superbling

I can't believe no one really jumped on this thread especially since it's in the middle of PMS for lots of folks! What a great fourm.

On the VFR forum, there is a research engineer who lives right up the road from me (in Texas terms) who eats and sleeps engine oil properties. He runs dyno's 24/7 for a research instititue and analyzes chemical breakdown specimens of all kinds of oils.

I'll save you TONS of reading from that site: mobil one gold cap (used to be a red cap) 15w/50 synthetic. Their m/c specific oils do return better analysis but not enough to justify the much higher cost. He's **** enough to run the V-twin formula tho'. He also says a very good and much cheaper alternative is shell rotella synthetic (about $12 a jug at wallyworld). Don't use energy conserving (EC) oils. Change frequently. That's it.

Another story that "sold" me on mobil one years ago. I personally know a former owner of a top level open wheel auto (not formula 1) US race team who's main sponsor was an oil company. Late at night, they would poor mobil one (zero weight!) into the company's yellow (hint, hint) empties to use in public!

superhawk22

Thanks mang, this list goes in the saved file!

oicdn

Yeah...I was kinda wondering why nobody jumped on this thread...I was like..well, i guess people prefer the honda oil/filter, lol.

Randman

Guys, Thanks for all of the info....I am not going to analyze this topic to death....I will see what I can pick up locally at what price, from the given sugguestions, and that will be that...lol....

One more, how often is often enough, and what is over kill for changing oil and filter on these things?? Like I said, previous owner changed every 6 months...not because of mileage, she put 1500 miles on it in a year and a half.....they used the reg Honda oil....

oicdn

Dealer said every 4K...manual says every 3K(not that I really listen to the manual) but I do it religously at 3K. Why not...it's a good "normal" number.

I know oils like Redline say you can go 10K miles between oil changes because of the lubrication properties of thier oil, but I call BS....if not BS, I wouldn't do it, even with thier racing oil.....

I have a buddy who has an aircooled VW (where oil is of utmost importance, probably 10x more than a watercooled engine) and he hasn't changed his oil in 15K miles of weekend trackdays, and daily beatings of the motor opening her up on every straight and redlight...his car is still running, perfectly fine, lol.

So I think 3K-4K is a safe number...anything more is overkill, and anything under I think is a bit risky...just my personal opinion though....

Randman

That is kind of what I was thinking 3 to 4K....

Thanks

superhawk22

Beleive it or not, Sportrider mag. said you should change the oil before and after every trackday because of the extreme beating the engine puts the oil through. Of course being the cheap sob I am I've done 4 trackdays on this oil change.

CNI Dawg

Interesting he found the K&N oil filter 'sub-standard' not recomended !
I would have thought K&N would make a good oil filter......go figure !

Randman

I know, same thing with the AMSOIL, thought they were supposed to be great....who am I to say, I am just sheep.....BAH BAH.....

Riccardo

On my VTR I've always used (>50.000 Km) Mazda MX5 (Miata) oil filter bought at my local car spare shop. It works perfectly!

Shell Advance VSX 15W/50 (Semi-synt) is the oil I use.
Ciao

Randman

Thanks, Good to know....

Randman

Well I changed the oil, I know not a big deal for most....first for me...

FYI the Supertech oil filter fits, but is smaller than the oem filter...but for $2.08 at wal-mart you can replace it 2 or 3 times in between oil changes if you feel the need..lol....no, I am not that ****...er yes I am.....and I found the mobil one gold cap at WM 5 quart jug $25.....grand total $27. and some change....

beats the heck out of going to the dealer and paying $60+ ...with the smaller filter I only used 4 quarts, not 4.1 so I still have 1 quart left for next time....

CNI Dawg

Here's the link for our VTR's AND other motorcycles too!

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

Randman

You gotta love a $2 filter that kicks A$$ !!! I chuckle a little.....

CNI Dawg

Here's more info on oil filters.
Some seem to contradict the previous information.
(This guy Likes the K&N filter)
Lots of pictures !

http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml

Randman

Dawg, really....

Are telling me you are gonna trust a guy with a hacksaw, beer, and a balcony....Trust me, I've seen plenty of these nuts at Mardi Gras, hell man I have been that nut....

I am sure it is like anything else, eat salt this week, don't eat it the next...rat poison is bad for you, I mean where do they come up with this crap....lol

For now, I will stick with my Supertech filter, as I have seen several reviews and this one is usually at or close to the top....And $2.00 wow...

mdbuehler

Just did the oil on mine last week. I've run 10-30 or 20-50 (summer track days) in all my bikes with 0 troubles.

They didn't have the m1-108 when I hit the Autozone, and being in a rush I grabbed the m1-110 instead. I did have to trim about 1/4" off the chin spoiler so it would clear (seconds with the dremel). Figured I just increased my options, and a larger filter might even be better, who knows?

firebolt

May not be the right question to be here, but since this thread is all about Oil change, I am shooting it here.

Is it necessary to change the oil filter everytime you do oil change?
How often (miles/duration) should an oil change be done?

(I am a newbie and directed by people to post in this forum, wow! I never knew the existence of this forum before that... great job folks)

CNI Dawg

I change the filter at each oil change @ 3000 miles just like the manual says.

Changing the oil & filter is probably the cheapest maintenance you can do on your motorcycle (or car for that matter)

You might get away with changing the filter every other oil change but why risk it?
Plus you will leave a small amount (1/3 to 1/2 qt) of dirty oil in the old filter to mix with the new clean oil you put in.
Dirty oil is dirty oil!!
Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or 'dino' oil it's still carrying microscopic dirt particles thru your engine increasing the wear unnecessarily.
The filter only takes out the big crud & lets the little crud pass thru.
If the filter gets too dirty it goes into bypass mode & doesn't filter the oil anymore when the pressure gets too high in the filter.
With proper care these motors will last many times longer than an air cooled motorcycle engine.
Keep your oil clean!

I remember my old Laverda 750SF2 did not have an oil filter.
But that was 1974 technology & oil changes were every 1000 miles.
It also used 2 sets of points & condensers for the ignition
Now that was interesting setting points & timing on that motorcycle!

MisfitToy