KB Article #5 - Clutch Line Install and Bleeding
 

There have been a few threads lately about difficulty bleeding the clutch. I installed my new braided clutch line today and didn't have a single problem. The whole bleeding process took maybe 10 minutes tops. Here's what I did:

Before I broke any fittings I took a piece of latex hose and tied it around the clutch lever to hold it in. This prevents the master cylinder from draining out. With towels around the slave cylinder I loosened the lower banjo bolt and removed it. Next, I used more towels at the bottom of the hose when I loosened the upper master cylinder bolt. This allowed all the fluid in the line to drain. I carefully noted the routing of the stock line and then removed it. I pulled the rubber grommet off the stock hose and installed it on the new line and then routed the new braided line as stock. Using new crush washers and stock banjo bolts I installed the new line. There is a clip at the steering head for the grommet, a nylon tie wrap (reusable) attached to the frame, and one flexible retainer on the left rear fairing bracket.

Now, for the bleeding: The bleeder bolt on the clutch slave is 10mm. Hook up a Mighty Vac to the bleeder and draw a vacuum on the line before opening the bleeder. Fill the reservoir to the top and release the clutch lever. The fluid level will start to lower. Don't let it empty. Quickly crack open the bleeder for just a second then shut it. Top off the reservoir. Crack open the bleeder. Lots of air will come out if you have a new line but eventually a solid stream of fluid will come out. Again, don't let the level of the reservoir get too low, and it's a good idea to make sure the Mighty Vac has a good vacuum at all times.

Once you have no air bubbles coming out shut the bleeder valve and release the vacuum on the Mighty Vac. Now, just to be sure there is no air, bleed the clutch in a conventional manner (squeeze, open, close, release, repeat). You may get a few more small air bubbles. Clean the bleeder area and banjo bolt areas with some brake cleaner and ensure the bleeder is snug.

If you have a good vacuum on the bleeder nipple, you don't need to pump the mityvac.
Instead I pump it up, crack the bleeder nipple valve open, and simply refill the reservoir.
Then I close the valve, refill the reservoir, pump the lever a couple times(to make sure it is at full firmness, open the valve and depress the lever, close the valve, release the lever, and repeat this a few times.
I do this to get any extra air bubbles that might have been trapped around the lever out.