R1/R6 Regulator/Rectifier Swap
04-15-2008, 05:47 PM
#1
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Location: Fulton, MO
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R1/R6 Regulator/Rectifier Swap
Link to regulator/rectifier swap using the Yamaha R1/R6 Reg/Rect:
http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/
UPDATE: The link swaps to a non-MOSFET R/R. For more info on current MOSFET R/R's click here.
So I'm(Wolverine) going to share my R/R swap, kind of mirroring the link contained within the thread. This is solely for helping someone out who is searching for more info. I am by no means responsible for your mistakes.
Here is a pic of my R/R.
It's labeled and bought as being removed from an 03 R1. The markings read FH001. I also picked up a plug kit from ebay. jasonmotoelectrix was the user name to order from. Furukawa connectors of the same quality as Jim from Eastern Beaver sells. A couple bucks cheaper too.
First things first. Disconnect your positive battery terminal.
Remove the rear body plastic to expose the OE R/R.
Unbolt and remove the stock piece. Grab the wire snipers and cut off the harness plug. One of my wire showed a bit of discoloration. Good timing for an upgrade I guess.
Strip the wires
Solder the ends so they do not fray.
Slide your boots and/or shrink tube on. Then crimp on your spades.
Solder the wire to the spades.
Push into the plug and heat up your shrink.
Mount it back up, relocating the relay further back on the subframe.
You'll need a longer M6 thread bolt to mount up the new R/R.
Next I got out the multimeter. 12.2 with the switch off, 11.8 on. Then I started the bike.
Plastics back on and I'm done!
http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/
UPDATE: The link swaps to a non-MOSFET R/R. For more info on current MOSFET R/R's click here.
So I'm(Wolverine) going to share my R/R swap, kind of mirroring the link contained within the thread. This is solely for helping someone out who is searching for more info. I am by no means responsible for your mistakes.
Here is a pic of my R/R.
It's labeled and bought as being removed from an 03 R1. The markings read FH001. I also picked up a plug kit from ebay. jasonmotoelectrix was the user name to order from. Furukawa connectors of the same quality as Jim from Eastern Beaver sells. A couple bucks cheaper too.
First things first. Disconnect your positive battery terminal.
Remove the rear body plastic to expose the OE R/R.
Unbolt and remove the stock piece. Grab the wire snipers and cut off the harness plug. One of my wire showed a bit of discoloration. Good timing for an upgrade I guess.
Strip the wires
Solder the ends so they do not fray.
Slide your boots and/or shrink tube on. Then crimp on your spades.
Solder the wire to the spades.
Push into the plug and heat up your shrink.
Mount it back up, relocating the relay further back on the subframe.
You'll need a longer M6 thread bolt to mount up the new R/R.
Next I got out the multimeter. 12.2 with the switch off, 11.8 on. Then I started the bike.
Plastics back on and I'm done!
Last edited by Wolverine; 07-26-2012 at 06:04 PM. Reason: Updated R/R info + how-to
07-10-2008, 01:10 PM
#4
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 59
Thanks for the link hawkrider! I did this mod today and it went off without a hitch. I found the '07 r6 model for $50 on ebay. I followed the directions of the link and it is really a good secure way to fit this yamaha RR. I only used the top mounting hole with a lock washer and a little bit longer M6 bolt than the original. I zip tied the turnsignal relay really tight to the frame and she is good to go. All together it took less than an hour and a half. Some of that time was spent drinking coffee too so its really simple. Thanks superhawk forum!
07-10-2008, 04:54 PM
#5
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: South Central Indiana
Posts: 30
I know this has been beaten to death but I just bought the Hawk three weeks ago, so bear with me. I have a 98 and when I went to start it this morning it wouldn't turn over. Dead battery. The guy I bought it off of said the battery was replaced this past winter. So it makes me think that the R/R is bad. When I put the new battery in it started right up. What should the voltage reading be at 3k rpms? If I remember correctly mine read 12.9V. What is everyone's thoughts.
07-13-2008, 03:54 PM
#6
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 176
I've been looking at these since I might be replacing my R/R. I'm hesitant to buy one on flea-bay so I've been looking at new from BikeBandit. Most of the ones I've looked at for the R6 are similar to what the link shows. The ones I've seen for the R1 are different, have two connectors and cost almost double. Does anyone know absolutely for sure which R6 versions work so we can have a flea-bay/store list?
08-04-2008, 10:52 AM
#7
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SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
Thank you for posting the link, it was a breeze to do the upgrade to the new R1 R/R i bought with this link.
I guess after 10 years the original R/R decided it was time to go, even though i had here finned for most of those years. I Really think the battery is what got here. I got a little lazy in keeping the charge up as i have been playing on the Wife's SV650S and the SuperMoto, while the VTR sat in the garage waiting for attention.
Thanks again for all who contribute to the site!
I guess after 10 years the original R/R decided it was time to go, even though i had here finned for most of those years. I Really think the battery is what got here. I got a little lazy in keeping the charge up as i have been playing on the Wife's SV650S and the SuperMoto, while the VTR sat in the garage waiting for attention.
Thanks again for all who contribute to the site!
08-08-2008, 07:02 AM
#9
Post Whore Junior
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Triad, NC
Posts: 4,825
Ok, last thing.. there is a diagram showing the plug configuration...
If you hold the locking mech as it states.. are you supposed to look at the wire entrance end or the open end (that you insert into the R/R)?
If you hold the locking mech as it states.. are you supposed to look at the wire entrance end or the open end (that you insert into the R/R)?
08-15-2008, 06:49 PM
#12
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SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: moncton nb canada
Posts: 1,269
why is it that the r/r shown in the 2000 r1 fiche on www.mrcycles.com looks totally different than the one shown in the mod link above?
does anyone care to put up a list of exactly which r/r s work for the superhawk?
thanks
does anyone care to put up a list of exactly which r/r s work for the superhawk?
thanks
08-15-2008, 07:22 PM
#14
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SuperSport
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 758
well, for the older models of the r1 r/r (i think 96 to '01 or something) are cheaper. the newer ones are around 60 bucks more. i dont know what the difference is, but i just got one of the older ones and threw it on.
08-16-2008, 12:20 AM
#15
Josh
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Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
08-18-2008, 05:31 AM
#17
Post Whore Junior
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Triad, NC
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Yeah.. I went with a 2001 R1 r/r also.. five wires.. bought the plug also.. spliced in my wiring.
I week later, everything seems fine. May be in my head, but the hawk doesnt want to stall as much either.
Also, I enlarged the holes on the '01 R1 r/r so I could use BOTH factory mounting holes. There's a wire that you need to ground using one hole.. and I figure the frame sucks some heat from the r/r also (helps disapate the heat) so a tighter mount means more heat transfer.. (=better.. maybe?) No worries.. there's no electronics to hit if you're careful.. It's just pot metal, so it's easy to drill.
I week later, everything seems fine. May be in my head, but the hawk doesnt want to stall as much either.
Also, I enlarged the holes on the '01 R1 r/r so I could use BOTH factory mounting holes. There's a wire that you need to ground using one hole.. and I figure the frame sucks some heat from the r/r also (helps disapate the heat) so a tighter mount means more heat transfer.. (=better.. maybe?) No worries.. there's no electronics to hit if you're careful.. It's just pot metal, so it's easy to drill.
08-20-2008, 05:04 PM
#18
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SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: moncton nb canada
Posts: 1,269
i ordered the r/r for the 1998 yzf600r. the fische pic shows it with the cooling fins and it looks just like the one in th eabove link. it also shares the same part number as the r/r for the 2000 r1, 4JH-81960-01-00.
09-05-2008, 08:23 AM
#20
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Squid
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Urbana, Il
Posts: 3
the YZF600r and R6 ones are about 80 bucks brand new FWIW
<- yamaha nerd, sorry
01-13-2009, 09:24 AM
#22
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Superstock
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Independence, Oregon
Posts: 367
Links
Hey Greg.
the link below won't work for me. Or you hawk link.
Is it me?
Carl
the link below won't work for me. Or you hawk link.
Is it me?
Carl
01-13-2009, 10:58 AM
#23
Post Whore Junior
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Triad, NC
Posts: 4,825
It's not just you... It may be part of his "Greg's liter bike" website.. seems it's down righ now. He has been notified. He switched servers, and hasnt had time to get it up and running.. (from what I've read)..
04-17-2009, 06:52 AM
#24
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Squid
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Brighton, UK
Posts: 28
The website seems in working order...
"Greg's liter bike"? Whos that?
Nah its mine, carried out this mod a few years ago now.
Could do with a little updating i suppose.
Glad ya'll found the mod useful.
Will add this forums link to the top of the page later...
"Greg's liter bike"? Whos that?
Nah its mine, carried out this mod a few years ago now.
Could do with a little updating i suppose.
Glad ya'll found the mod useful.
Will add this forums link to the top of the page later...
05-10-2009, 02:13 PM
#27
Josh
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
I guess i spoke too soon. 
Well, my darn rectifier seems to have gone bad again !
I did the R1 mod only 2 years ago and it already had died. It still is functioning, but my lights are flickering if i am not in bright mode and today as i was gearing up to head to church, my bike wouldnt start. Well, i cranked it about 3 or 4 quick tries, and i forgot the choke. I put on the choke and there wasn't enough juice to get it to run. So clearly it doesnt seem to be charging
So, it is funny how in the write up it says " i have never heard of one failing" Well, it seems like mine has. I just had a few quick questions. Are the R6 and R1 models the same. I thought they were, but i just checked bike bandit, the R1 model is 180 and the R6 model is only 100 bucks. They have different part numbers. Also, what happened to the prices. I think i got mine for like 15 bucks shipped 2 years ago. Now i see tons for like over 100 bucks on ebay. Well any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am going to order one up tonight.
Last edited by viperkillertt; 05-10-2009 at 02:20 PM.
05-10-2009, 03:03 PM
#28
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Brighton, UK
Posts: 28
Soz to hear it bud...
You must be the first, as everything else usually dies before the R/R... unless its just pot luck...
They should be exactly the same or maybe design has slightly changed for improvements over different models and years. But they all do the same job.
Alot of manufacturers stamp on different part numbers for different models of bikes and charge higher or lower prices but at the end of the day its the same part.
Example... R1 R/R - 150.00 or GSF600 R/R - 80.00 = Same part.
Its what the manufacturers dont want you too know and you end up parting with more notes for riding a superbike instead of a tourer.
Honda are pretty good and usually use universal or same part numbers accross most models.
You must be the first, as everything else usually dies before the R/R... unless its just pot luck...
They should be exactly the same or maybe design has slightly changed for improvements over different models and years. But they all do the same job.
Alot of manufacturers stamp on different part numbers for different models of bikes and charge higher or lower prices but at the end of the day its the same part.
Example... R1 R/R - 150.00 or GSF600 R/R - 80.00 = Same part.
Its what the manufacturers dont want you too know and you end up parting with more notes for riding a superbike instead of a tourer.
Honda are pretty good and usually use universal or same part numbers accross most models.
05-10-2009, 05:14 PM
#29
Josh
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
Soz to hear it bud...
You must be the first, as everything else usually dies before the R/R... unless its just pot luck...
They should be exactly the same or maybe design has slightly changed for improvements over different models and years. But they all do the same job.
Alot of manufacturers stamp on different part numbers for different models of bikes and charge higher or lower prices but at the end of the day its the same part.
Example... R1 R/R - 150.00 or GSF600 R/R - 80.00 = Same part.
Its what the manufacturers dont want you too know and you end up parting with more notes for riding a superbike instead of a tourer.
Honda are pretty good and usually use universal or same part numbers accross most models.
You must be the first, as everything else usually dies before the R/R... unless its just pot luck...
They should be exactly the same or maybe design has slightly changed for improvements over different models and years. But they all do the same job.
Alot of manufacturers stamp on different part numbers for different models of bikes and charge higher or lower prices but at the end of the day its the same part.
Example... R1 R/R - 150.00 or GSF600 R/R - 80.00 = Same part.
Its what the manufacturers dont want you too know and you end up parting with more notes for riding a superbike instead of a tourer.
Honda are pretty good and usually use universal or same part numbers accross most models.
05-11-2009, 07:23 AM
#30
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Brighton, UK
Posts: 28
Make sure its not just your battery thats dropped a cell.
Use a multimeter and give the bike some revs to see what voltage comes through, around 15.5v should be normal.
To be honest most RR's fit... just make sure they have connections, 1x positive, 1x negative and 3x for the pulse generator.
These R1 or R6 units are suitable because of there decent size and large heatsink to disperse the heat.
You will probably find that they are the same on most Suzuki's like the GSXF, Bandit etc.
Ebays your tool for pics and details.
Use a multimeter and give the bike some revs to see what voltage comes through, around 15.5v should be normal.
To be honest most RR's fit... just make sure they have connections, 1x positive, 1x negative and 3x for the pulse generator.
These R1 or R6 units are suitable because of there decent size and large heatsink to disperse the heat.
You will probably find that they are the same on most Suzuki's like the GSXF, Bandit etc.
Ebays your tool for pics and details.
