Installing VFR 750/800 bars
06-01-2005, 09:22 PM
#1
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nananimo, B.C.
Posts: 764
Installing VFR 750/800 bars
So what’s involved in putting them on and what are the positives and negatives? It’s not quite a simple “bolt on” affair but its something anyone can do in no time at all.
Bad news first, the stock brake lines don’t reach the new bar’s higher position by about 2”, so you’ll need after market steel braided lines. Most people already have these, or are going to get them so this is not a big deal. I went with Goodridge because they had an option to go +1 or +2 inches on their order form. I went +2 which turned out to be totally unnecessary as my lines are now +2 inches too long :P Better long than short hehe
So assuming you have after market lines on, take all the **** off your old bars and plop on the new naked ones. You will note that the little male sticky downy thingy on the bottom of the new clip-on (where it fits into the triple clamp) is on the opposite side of where the stock one goes. This doesn’t matter as it clears the top of the triple tree mount, but just not quite enough, so you need to shave a little off the inside of it with a hand file or dremel -easy as pie. Now the clip on will sit flush on the fork tube top/triple tree.
When you begin to bolt on your throttle, kill switch and turn signals you will notice that they have nipples inside that fit into holes in the clip-on’s. Well they don’t match up anymore. I filed off the tabs on my turn signal mount and my kill switch but I didn’t on the throttle as it really needs to be there. Just mock it up, mark where the hole goes and drill it out with the same diameter drill bit as the male tab. If the hole’s too big your throttle could wiggle. If the hole’s not in the exact spot, forward or back, then you may not be able to open your throttle wide open without readjusting your hand on it and if the hole is too far left or right then you might show too much bar or bunch it up against the bar end.
Once you have all your stuff on then crank your front end over to the left and set your left clip-on as close to the gas tank as possible. The horn button will touch first. Tighten the bar up then set the right bar accordingly.
So the other bad news, which is dick all imo, is that the right bar clears the fairing and tank by a mile but the left bar slightly nicks the bottom of the fairing where the hi-beam switch is. This means that unless you either, shave off a bit of the bottom of your fairing OR, put a bushing in between where your fairing meets your mirror mount to push the fairing out a bit, whenever you crank your bars all the way to the right, your gonna flip on your high beam switch…big deal.
The good news: I’m 5’9” and with my stock bars the palms of my hands would ache horribly, eventually go numb and throb. I couldn’t ride far and even though I loved my bike, I dreaded the riding position for any distance. People say you get used to it. Well I rode all last season and I kinda did by the end of it. The day after I installed these new bars I rode from 9:30am till 8:00pm taking short stops for gas, lunch and a beer in complete comfort. I couldn’t help but notice all the other riders around me shaking out their hands during the day.
If you compare these VFR bars with Heli bars you will see that they are much more robust and WAAAY cheaper. Also I’m sure they’re higher and angled as far back to the rider position and you can possibly get, as well as angled more horizontally to the earth. They polish up great as you can see in my pics.
After doing this mod, along with my Sargent seat and Puig double bubble style windscreen, I can honestly ride in complete comfort for hours on end and concentrate on having fun and riding better.
Bad news first, the stock brake lines don’t reach the new bar’s higher position by about 2”, so you’ll need after market steel braided lines. Most people already have these, or are going to get them so this is not a big deal. I went with Goodridge because they had an option to go +1 or +2 inches on their order form. I went +2 which turned out to be totally unnecessary as my lines are now +2 inches too long :P Better long than short hehe
So assuming you have after market lines on, take all the **** off your old bars and plop on the new naked ones. You will note that the little male sticky downy thingy on the bottom of the new clip-on (where it fits into the triple clamp) is on the opposite side of where the stock one goes. This doesn’t matter as it clears the top of the triple tree mount, but just not quite enough, so you need to shave a little off the inside of it with a hand file or dremel -easy as pie. Now the clip on will sit flush on the fork tube top/triple tree.
When you begin to bolt on your throttle, kill switch and turn signals you will notice that they have nipples inside that fit into holes in the clip-on’s. Well they don’t match up anymore. I filed off the tabs on my turn signal mount and my kill switch but I didn’t on the throttle as it really needs to be there. Just mock it up, mark where the hole goes and drill it out with the same diameter drill bit as the male tab. If the hole’s too big your throttle could wiggle. If the hole’s not in the exact spot, forward or back, then you may not be able to open your throttle wide open without readjusting your hand on it and if the hole is too far left or right then you might show too much bar or bunch it up against the bar end.
Once you have all your stuff on then crank your front end over to the left and set your left clip-on as close to the gas tank as possible. The horn button will touch first. Tighten the bar up then set the right bar accordingly.
So the other bad news, which is dick all imo, is that the right bar clears the fairing and tank by a mile but the left bar slightly nicks the bottom of the fairing where the hi-beam switch is. This means that unless you either, shave off a bit of the bottom of your fairing OR, put a bushing in between where your fairing meets your mirror mount to push the fairing out a bit, whenever you crank your bars all the way to the right, your gonna flip on your high beam switch…big deal.
The good news: I’m 5’9” and with my stock bars the palms of my hands would ache horribly, eventually go numb and throb. I couldn’t ride far and even though I loved my bike, I dreaded the riding position for any distance. People say you get used to it. Well I rode all last season and I kinda did by the end of it. The day after I installed these new bars I rode from 9:30am till 8:00pm taking short stops for gas, lunch and a beer in complete comfort. I couldn’t help but notice all the other riders around me shaking out their hands during the day.
If you compare these VFR bars with Heli bars you will see that they are much more robust and WAAAY cheaper. Also I’m sure they’re higher and angled as far back to the rider position and you can possibly get, as well as angled more horizontally to the earth. They polish up great as you can see in my pics.
After doing this mod, along with my Sargent seat and Puig double bubble style windscreen, I can honestly ride in complete comfort for hours on end and concentrate on having fun and riding better.
06-05-2005, 07:14 PM
#5
Moderator
MotoGP
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,553
Re: Installing VFR 750 bars
AFAIK, all VFR bars from 1990-2001 will fit. The only real differences that I know of are styling and the method of end weight installation which is typically different than the SuperHawk. If they are from an 800, you need to find out if they are 98-01 (will fit) since 02 to present will not work because they are 43mm.
06-06-2005, 10:30 AM
#6
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nananimo, B.C.
Posts: 764
Re: Installing VFR 750 bars
Thanks Superbling 
I'm pretty sure the bar end changes from '95 -> '96 to use a larger bolt as it becomes a heavier bar end so you need to verify the year your using. Don't assume you can use your Superhawk bar ends.
I'm pretty sure the bar end changes from '95 -> '96 to use a larger bolt as it becomes a heavier bar end so you need to verify the year your using. Don't assume you can use your Superhawk bar ends.
07-28-2005, 09:45 AM
#7
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 442
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
Bars:
600 F2/F3 will fit, similar height to stock, weights like stock (stockers should mount dependent on year)
CB1 (400F) will fit, higher than stock (clearance issues w/tank), weights like stock
Hawk will fit, WAAAAY higher than stock (serious clearance issues), stock weights bolt up
CBR1000F will fit (similar to CB1 height), weights stock
VFRs from 90-2001 will fit.
90-93 are medium height (similar:CBR1000 & CB1), weights should fit.
94-96 are medium height with different weights (stock WILL not bolt up), solid aluminum and very pretty.
98-01 are slightly higher than others, weights like stock; not solid, but pretty.
NOTE: Throttlemeisters for stock VTR work for 600F2/3, Hawk, CBR1000, CB1, VFR800 (to 01); all these end weights should be direct bolt-ons.
Height can be a major issue allowing limited adjustments, and contact the fairing. Mounting holes for switches, master cylinders, throttle housings, etc. may need to be drilled/relocated. I've also had to grind various parts of clutch & brake MCs to allow clearance for fork adjusters. I've had F2, Hawk, VFR (2 yrs) and older Heli bars mounted on my '01 SHawk with varying success.
I now use 98 VFR bars, with a Throttlemeister, and like where they "put my hands" for commuting/corner carving. I'd consider older (96) VFR bars, if I could replace the Throttlemeister cheaply. I use them on my 88 Hawk, they're the best I've found for my "Jr Hawk".
Just my 2 cents...
600 F2/F3 will fit, similar height to stock, weights like stock (stockers should mount dependent on year)
CB1 (400F) will fit, higher than stock (clearance issues w/tank), weights like stock
Hawk will fit, WAAAAY higher than stock (serious clearance issues), stock weights bolt up
CBR1000F will fit (similar to CB1 height), weights stock
VFRs from 90-2001 will fit.
90-93 are medium height (similar:CBR1000 & CB1), weights should fit.
94-96 are medium height with different weights (stock WILL not bolt up), solid aluminum and very pretty.
98-01 are slightly higher than others, weights like stock; not solid, but pretty.
NOTE: Throttlemeisters for stock VTR work for 600F2/3, Hawk, CBR1000, CB1, VFR800 (to 01); all these end weights should be direct bolt-ons.
Height can be a major issue allowing limited adjustments, and contact the fairing. Mounting holes for switches, master cylinders, throttle housings, etc. may need to be drilled/relocated. I've also had to grind various parts of clutch & brake MCs to allow clearance for fork adjusters. I've had F2, Hawk, VFR (2 yrs) and older Heli bars mounted on my '01 SHawk with varying success.
I now use 98 VFR bars, with a Throttlemeister, and like where they "put my hands" for commuting/corner carving. I'd consider older (96) VFR bars, if I could replace the Throttlemeister cheaply. I use them on my 88 Hawk, they're the best I've found for my "Jr Hawk".
Just my 2 cents...
08-20-2005, 07:42 AM
#8
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 200
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
What did you pay, on average, for your bars? I assume you didn't by them new unless you got some serious bank!!!
I am still struggling to find bars at my local (within 150 miles from me) salvage yards.....man, it isn't so easy.
I'm 6'2 and I'm looking at getting a double bubble or touring windscreen and I want to raise the bars for sure to make the bike more sport touring oriented. I think I'm just to tall and rode motocross / off road bikes for too long to get into the sport riding position.
08-20-2005, 08:34 AM
#9
Moderator
MotoGP
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,553
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
Let Ebay be your friend. Finding matched unbent pairs will certainly be harder but if you don't mind mismatched styling singles are more common. They are a very worth while mod. If you just can't find them, then pony up for some gen-mar risers.
Because of your dirt bike background, you might also want to consider going with superbike bars. NOTE: this is the land of no return as you will need to trim the upper fairing for clearance but it will give you that position you're really looking for. Add the db screen and corbin/sargent seat and it's nirvana IMO.
I have a write up on it in the mod's section somewhere.
Because of your dirt bike background, you might also want to consider going with superbike bars. NOTE: this is the land of no return as you will need to trim the upper fairing for clearance but it will give you that position you're really looking for. Add the db screen and corbin/sargent seat and it's nirvana IMO.
I have a write up on it in the mod's section somewhere.
08-23-2005, 10:09 AM
#11
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 442
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
I think the most expensive set was $100 (yes, set).
I personally feel anything over $50 per side is pricey. If you're patient, you can get them cheaper on Ebay. I recently got an old set of Helibars, for an SH, for about $75. I've studied them awhile, and know what all of them look like. I can tell you what they're off just by looking. Most people don't even know what they're selling, let alone what it'll fit.
I'd go back w/ $100 cash for the CBR bars, and see what they say? Cash sometimes talks. CBR bars are kinda tall, though. About like VFR 750 bars (remember, all require minor modifications).
BTW, are you in northern Virginia? I live in Hagerstown, MD and occasionally get into DC. Want to arrange a meet? I have the higher bars, DB screen, and Sargent seat setup already; I'm only 5'11", but I prefer the upright position also. You could have a sit and see what you like?
Andy
8)
I personally feel anything over $50 per side is pricey. If you're patient, you can get them cheaper on Ebay. I recently got an old set of Helibars, for an SH, for about $75. I've studied them awhile, and know what all of them look like. I can tell you what they're off just by looking. Most people don't even know what they're selling, let alone what it'll fit.
I'd go back w/ $100 cash for the CBR bars, and see what they say? Cash sometimes talks. CBR bars are kinda tall, though. About like VFR 750 bars (remember, all require minor modifications).
BTW, are you in northern Virginia? I live in Hagerstown, MD and occasionally get into DC. Want to arrange a meet? I have the higher bars, DB screen, and Sargent seat setup already; I'm only 5'11", but I prefer the upright position also. You could have a sit and see what you like?
Andy
8)
08-23-2005, 03:42 PM
#12
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 200
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
Hey Andy,
Sure man, lets get together for a ride some time. I responded to another post for delmarva riders but nothing ever came of it. We gotta do it quick before it gets cold man!!!
Sure man, lets get together for a ride some time. I responded to another post for delmarva riders but nothing ever came of it. We gotta do it quick before it gets cold man!!!
02-01-2006, 05:21 AM
#15
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 147
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
What keeps the VFR bars from turning? The tab that is a safety against rotation on the stock bars is not used. Proper torque would be critical I would think. Anyone know proper torque figure?
02-01-2006, 06:17 AM
#16
Moderate-whore
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Leander TX!!
Posts: 9,049
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
So the other bad news, which is dick all imo, is that the right bar clears the fairing and tank by a mile but the left bar slightly nicks the bottom of the fairing where the hi-beam switch is. whenever you crank your bars all the way to the right, your gonna flip on your high beam switch…big deal.
So you were able to use your stock bar ends?? Mine have the larger screw so I have to find VFR bar ends that will fit....not so easy, as I have been looking.....
02-01-2006, 06:26 AM
#17
Moderate-whore
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Leander TX!!
Posts: 9,049
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
02-01-2006, 09:49 AM
#18
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nananimo, B.C.
Posts: 764
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
Since you don't have the locking tabs you can set them where ever you like. The only time they touch the tank is walking it around the garage if I let it.
As far as worrying about them wiggling around because there are no locking tabs, I wouldn't. I had a pretty heavy low side and not only did they not move but they didn't bend either.
As far as worrying about them wiggling around because there are no locking tabs, I wouldn't. I had a pretty heavy low side and not only did they not move but they didn't bend either.
02-01-2006, 05:20 PM
#19
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 442
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
Torque value isn't VERY important. I just make sure they don't move by hand.
I do make sure they move when you tap them with a rubber mallet. I've saved many a clip-on when a bike fell over with this trick. If they're snug, they'll move and save the bar, although they may hit the tank ($$ replacement).
Just my 2 cents.
I do make sure they move when you tap them with a rubber mallet. I've saved many a clip-on when a bike fell over with this trick. If they're snug, they'll move and save the bar, although they may hit the tank ($$ replacement).
Just my 2 cents.
05-02-2006, 07:09 AM
#20
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 206
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
Thanks for this post it helped a lot in deciding what to do for bar ends. I ended up buying a set of notched (hollow) bar ends and cutting the tab off, then drilling it out. I actually only needed to do one beacuse I picked up a throttlemiester off ebay for $1.99 last year not even knowing what it would fit. Low and behold, it fits the 94-96 "big hole" VTR bars! I may set the other bar end up in case I want to take the miester off, but that's another project for another day.
All said, about an hour of modification to the bar end, including making a wood holding tool so that I didn't scratch it up while using the sawsall to cut it down. I'll tell you what though, Cliffhanger was right, these buggers are hard. I think they'll still be around when the frame has oxidized into dust!
All said, about an hour of modification to the bar end, including making a wood holding tool so that I didn't scratch it up while using the sawsall to cut it down. I'll tell you what though, Cliffhanger was right, these buggers are hard. I think they'll still be around when the frame has oxidized into dust!
05-02-2006, 04:15 PM
#21
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 442
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
Greep,
I'm glad this helped. $1.99 for a Throttlemeister that fits those bars?!?!?You bum.
I have a HawkGT, and VFR bars are the hot setup for it also. I especially like the solid bars (less vibrations). I'd like a cruise for it, but TMs are $100 a piece, and it doesn't get enough miles now that I have the SHawk.
If you're selling, let me know.
Andy
I'm glad this helped. $1.99 for a Throttlemeister that fits those bars?!?!?You bum.
I have a HawkGT, and VFR bars are the hot setup for it also. I especially like the solid bars (less vibrations). I'd like a cruise for it, but TMs are $100 a piece, and it doesn't get enough miles now that I have the SHawk.
If you're selling, let me know.
Andy
05-02-2006, 11:28 PM
#22
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 206
Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
Well, if it makes you feel better I spent a little more than necessary for the bars. I got them from CNIDAWG, and he had just had them powder coated black so they matched the bike closer to a stock look. It was worth every penny!
05-25-2006, 07:11 PM
#23
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 200
Guys, Quick question for a Clip On newbie. How do you get the thingy out of the clip on? I got a brand new VFR800 bar of e-bay and it doesn't have anything to screw the weight into. My thought is to take out the inside of my VTR throttle clip on but I don't want to hack it all up trying to do it when I don't know how!
Any advice?
Any advice?
05-25-2006, 07:13 PM
#24
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 200
Oh, by the way, I finally grew a set and hack my fairing. I'll post some pic's tomorrow. It is just the initial cut with some finish work to come, but, no high beams when making a hard turn! :P
Also the VFR bars are only Temp. until I do Blings SUperbike Bar mod. I'm just waiting until I find the right risers and get braided lines! :P
Also the VFR bars are only Temp. until I do Blings SUperbike Bar mod. I'm just waiting until I find the right risers and get braided lines! :P
05-27-2006, 04:22 PM
#25
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 200
My VFR clip on experience
Well, I am following in the steps of my great mentor, Superbling! This mod to my bike is a stepping-stone to the Superbike bars modification. As you will see in the pictures, I've already trimmed the fairing to accommodate the Superbike bars and risers. But I think it wasn’t so bad for the tall VFR bars either. So, now that it is done, I have no guilt. I just need to take it out for a spin and see what damage I really did! :P
VFR 800 1998 bars, one was used and one new, both off ebay. I stole the bar weights from my stock clip on for the new VFR clip on. That was easier than I thought!
VFR 800 1998 bars, one was used and one new, both off ebay. I stole the bar weights from my stock clip on for the new VFR clip on. That was easier than I thought!
05-28-2006, 11:39 AM
#26
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 200
Awesome
Okay, here is my 2 cents worth. I think the difference from stock to the 98 VFR bars in strictly a must do! Bigger difference than I expected. If you thinking about doing it......DO IT! I don't regret it one bit. And, the faring had no problems at all, just like Bling said in his superbike bars mod thread. Since the cut is above the mirror bolts there doesn't seem to be any ill effects. At least none that I have noticed yet.
If you really want big change, go fo the superbike bar mod. I'm still going to try it!
I don't regret it one bit. And, the faring had no problems at all, just like Bling said in his superbike bars mod thread. Since the cut is above the mirror bolts there doesn't seem to be any ill effects. At least none that I have noticed yet.If you really want big change, go fo the superbike bar mod. I'm still going to try it!
