Notchy shitty feeling shifts....

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Thanks Man

So by extension, any diesel oil will be ok as long as it doesnt have friction modifiers?

I cant say that for sure but rotella has worked for me.

I don't know if its due to this thread but suddenly I am noticing the clunky shifts. I also need to align my linkage but it does seem notchy. Hmmm.

Psychosomatic? Conspiracy? Cuckoo for Cocopuffs?

Oil Thread-Opportunity-FWIW
I used to use Mobil 1, Switched to Amsoil 10-40 Synthetic Motorcycle oil. Shifting improvement noticeable, snicks into gear. Just look for an oil with the JASO MA/MA2 rating as follows; There is more than just this one.
GL-1 • API SG, SL/CF • JASO MA/MA2

Oil: Castrol 20w50 motorcycle specific.
Shifting: smooooooooooooth!:)

I use Red Line Racing Oils.

I call them, ask to speak with an engineer, and get their recommendations. Then I buy that and run it. Never any problems for me going this way in my cars, or motorcycles.

James

Just curious if anyone has used Royal Purple Max-Cycle in thier Superhawk?

Put some diesel oil in my Bandit 1200 yesterday. Seems to run just fine. Got a 200 mile ride today thats 2 up on it so that will see if there is a clutch issue.

If ok then I will put some in the Hawk.

Thanks to everyone that responded. I selected an oil I can sleep with. I'll make sure I never post a thread about the "O" word or the "T" word.

Hey MIHAWK... What tire pressures do you run?

James

And what color are you going to paint your oil pan?

Man... A guy can't even joke around here......

James

I don't think oil or tire threads are verboten. I mean how else would you exchange info?

If you don't want to be involved, you sure don't have to be.

What kind of air filter do you guys use? Lol

James

I'm totally kidding... Just trying to have fun and fit in with these crazies around here :)

I guess I will throw another oil joke, an old one, but still funny:
If a Harley doe's not leak oil, that means there is no oil in it...
Like these Hardly sportsters...

Agree, it's all just fun, see how people react to opinions, one may even say it's a social experiment... So, if you don't like it, why you even read my post right now? :roll:

Oh man, so I was in the parts store the other day stocking up on a bunch of things I needed and I found myself in the oil section just staring for minutes, trying to figure out what oil to buy for the bike... I made the switch to rotella 2 years ago but now they have all these different grades of the same weight, some offer high heat protection, some offer wear resistence etc... and I for the first time was baffled about oil. I dont think any of them said friction modifiers but most of them say something along the lines of "extreme wear resistence"or something like that. It makes me question that there might be friction modifiers i'm just not seeing the fine print...

Now I dont know what to think lol

I've had good results with Redline 20w50

I just changed oil for the first time on mine.
This stuff is surprisingly cheap compared to all the expensive bike oils!

I managed to let this one slide since it came out, but, as Wolvy said, 'Everyone's got an opinion'

High RPM's and heat are 2 of the worst elements that distroy oil. If buying the 3$ a liter(quart) oil is smart, well think again. This is a sports bike, that cruises an average 4500rpm's and can spin to 9500 no problem. If you think for one moment that the thin layers of metal that sit between the rod and crank that act as the bearings can resist to heat producted by high revolutions with cheap oils, well, chances are no. Short term, yes they will. But tens of thousands of miles down the road, no.

I see it everyday in my business with cheap skates that try and squeeze a few extra dollars out of their budget on cheap oils. They all come back to see me with nice engine rebuilds. If you can't afford the money to buy the right oil to put in these racing machines, then you can't afford to own a bike. I don't mean to be a prick about this, but this is not your run of the mill car that cruises at 1500rpms, and never see's 3500rpms, but just once in a while.

My 0,02$, you may do as you please. ;)

NOTE TO SELF: Don't buy any of these bikes !

Whoa there! You've really gone and done it this time! :rolleyes:
5W30????

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...763325&alt=web

I heard this is a great way to reduce friction and binding. Also only have to use a third compared to other manufactures. Rumor is it even smells pleasant.

Side note I would not recommend this or using 5w30 in any performance engine. Personal preference of me and my bike.

It lubricates the clutch really well and I get better gas mileage because it's a thinner oil.
I was told to add a Pint of Coolant to help keep the transmission gears cool. I'll let everyone know how that goes

Please post picture of the guy who told you, probably I´ve never seen such an expert.

I tried Rotella once - shifting immediately got clunky and stiff. Use Honda HP4 semi-synthetic 10w-40 - shifts nice and smooth for about the first 1500 miles, then gets a little clunky until I change it at 2000 miles. It does cost $23 for a gallon, but oh well.


Had a friend who tracks an R6 experience the same when he tried Rotella. He then believed the hype about Mobil 1 15w-50 not having friction modifiers because the little circle doesn't say energy conserving - boom - slipping clutch on the track! Changed his oil to Mobil 1 with the picture of the motorcycle on the bottle - no more slipping clutch.


My advice - use 10w-40 oil with a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle, and you will be a-ok. Synthetic will last a little longer, semi-syn not as long, 100% dino not as long as that.


Change it shortly after you feel the clunky shifting arrive.