Ok so once again more people are interested. This is good makes price go down :).
I will talk to the shop on monday and see if I can add more sets to the order, don't see why not. If you want a set put your name on the list, if you are not sure or are thinking of getting one later put your name on the list as the more now the cheaper it is plus you know you really want one.

The shop should be starting to make these this coming week sometime so you have until monday to make up your mind one way or another, I will hold one for you if money is an issue as long as you are on the list it is yours until you either pay or say no thanks or I can't get a hold of you after a reasonable amount of time.

So far we have:

1)Me
2)bbancsov
3) HawkRider98
4) VTR1000F
5) VTR1000F
6)twist
7)sailorjerry
8)gab
9) Kurt999
10) wannabridin
11) CruxGNZ
12)kenmoore

1)Me
2)bbancsov
3) HawkRider98
4) VTR1000F
5) VTR1000F
6)twist
7)sailorjerry
8)gab
9) Kurt999
10) wannabridin
11) CruxGNZ
12)kenmoore
13)2whltuner

Do you have an approximate price yet?

yes when we were under 10 it would have been around $150
But now that there are approx 15 the price will come down not sure how much as I asked when there was only 8 people interested.
Good news though I will order a few more than the names on the list just in case but as of today no more names will be added to the list as they are making them this week.

I don't think there's a suitable plastic for the environment that an airbox could see. What with fuel vapors, elevated temperatures and some engine vibrations, I don't know if a 3d printer would be able to feed the correct plastics through correctly. I think a machined piece from Al is going to be the best bet.

Looking forward to getting them mate!

Great price too!

Airbox and stock stacks are plastic. :evillaugh:

Yea

Yes, but they are injection molded and more than likely a different grade of plastic that is heat and solvent tolerant. Injection molding can use a much wider variety of plastics.

would rejetting be necessary with the new stacks?

3D printing is an interesting thought, although in this particular application I'm not sure you'd be optimizing the benefits.

Most 3d printing does not hold the tolerance that you can hold on a lathe (by a long shot)- so it may have a slight "oval", one side be raised, etc. The overall dimensions will be fairly accurate, but nothing beats good old fashioned machining to hold exact dimensions.

The surface finish on 3d printed parts isn't nearly as nice unless you shell out big bucks for something like an objet product, and in that case it will definitely be more expensive than the aluminum version.

It's also not as structurally sound. It may not be an issue with velocity stack, but 3d printed plastic has a whole bunch of little stress risers relative to injection molded parts. I "think" the airbox is just ABS, which can be easy enough to 3D print so personally I'm not sure that the actual material would have any problems.

The part is easy enough to machine and the billet chunk is small enough that aluminum seems to be a good choice IMO. Now, if someone were to design part with runners in it and maybe oval or D shaped portal and did some flow testing, etc, and made a complicated shape, then you'd have reason to play with 3D printers...

Any updates on this?

Yws, they could... But the exactness of a surface is never the same on ABS and aluminium... So, it might be good, and it might not... But it's worth the attempt to try it...

Is it necessary to lift the toilet lid before peeing? No, but it's a whole lot easier than mopping the floor afterwards...

Excuse the rudeness, but some questions are just dumb... ;)

Yeh ! The Tweety bird is back....;O)

Well talked to the guys at the shop and they are in the machine as we speak.
So, they are starting being machined and will be done sometime tuesday if all goes well.
I will pick them up sometime on friday and will start pm'ing the guys on the list.
Thanks for being patient as this was not the short process I thought it would be but happily they are getting done. I will also throw up some pics as well when I get them home.

Sounds good! Thanks for being the point man on this.

excuse my stupidity. Let me rephrase my question:

What kind of rejetting is typical with these stacks?

You don't have to but the bike will run like crap so yes you should re-jet.

You should just have to raise or lower the needles and maybe adjust the fuel screws depending on how close/bad your setup is now.

Read here for a good, easy to follow and read, basic carb set up then go from there to dial in with the new stacks

Just saw this thread, What's the latest on the stacks?

Oops, just saw the latest posts:) Are anymore available if interested Mikael?

Hey so this is what is sitting in front of me now :)

I will message all who asked/interested in one, if there are any left over I will let you know.
I will be busy boxing these up for shipping in the next while.
They turned out great, they are both the same so doesn't matter which goes where, this made it cheaper to make as they just had to make one file and part instead of two separate ones.




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So since the shop has the all the drawings and files can they cut more at a later date if there is enough interest? Any word on final price as I might have to pick up one of the "extra" sets? And does them being the same height dramatically effect their performance? Sorry for all the questions but I'm fairly new to the platform and my performance tuning skills are pretty minimal

As a side note on tuning for these stacks.

It is "normal" for the bike to go rich in the mid-range when you install these stacks.

Depending on your carb set up it can usually be cleared up with a pilot screw adjustment.

Go in between 1\4 - 1\2 turn and you should be good. ;)

I would be interested in price to.

P.M sent, also what effect does the same length have?

Are they longer than the standard short one?

No biggy as I want them, just curious!

Im running your set up on the carbs. I have a set of these ordered. So as they will be the same length will I need to re-drill the plug in the front slide?

Well the billet stack change things slightly. I did touch on it slightly in the first post but on my set up I ended up running a single lifth hole on both slides.

I did have one that liked 2 lift holes in each slide but all the rest have behaved better with a single hole.

So if it were mine I would start by plugging a hole in the rear slide and go in on the pilots 1\2 a turn and it should be real close. ;)

Thanks Hawk. I will go with that.

So no before and after dyno numbers yet?
Come on- one of you has to be curious....