Upcoming mods
 

With winter upon us here in Canada, my mind has begun to wander into the realm of mods.

Here, then, is what's in store for the coming months:
- building, powdercoating (satin black) and installing a braced swingarm (900RR brace)
- replacing the bent left side footpeg bracket (was that way when I bought the bke eyars ago, figure it's time to finally make it right), then having both brackets powdercoated (satin black)
- installing new shift lever (thanks Jamie)
- replacing top triple clamp (noticed it has a slight crack in it) with one from a 94 CBR900RR (seems sturdier) and installing a carbon fibre cover on it (for bling and to protect it from swinging keys)

I may also look at having my shock re-built and re-valved (slightly)

cheers

wheres the turbo?

sounds good ,best of luck.

you should powder frame black also.
looks real sharp when done.

Mikstr, you're lucky to have time for mods...I'm riding mine today:(

LOL! Just busting on ya up there in the great white north:)

It really is a problem, but I've figured out a way around it! I'm looking at buying a second bike so I can do mods and ride at the same time:cool:
RC

I'd love to get the frame done but that would mean taking the bike completely apart, something I am not willing to do at this point. Of course, if I ever get around to dropping in a set of hi-comp pistons, that may change... :)

It's riding season here too, but for snowmobiling. I hope to get out for a ride this weekend (as I am back working for a sled magazine, I have a pick of five new models to ride, including a new turbocharged 177 hp Arctic Cat and direct injection two-stroke Ski-Doo)...

How did that happen?

I'm lookin for alternative motors for a dune buggy project that me and a drinkin buddy are building, and was wondering what kind of torque that artic cat put out.

In regards to the crack in the triple clamp, it was like that when I bought it (sleezy eBay seller); it was but one of many f**k ups in that entire transaction. It is a slight crack where the clamp wraps around the left fork tube but I don`t want to risk anything bad happening as a result.

In terms of the big Cat engine, I haven`t seen a dyno chart for it but it pumps out 177 hp at a modest rpm (@ 8000 or so) so torque should easily be at or above 120 lb-ft range. I rode the sled last spring in Colorado and the thing hauls! The turbo kicks in around 4,500 rpm then hang on!!!!! Very little turbo lag too, a nice engine.

I'm jealous as the only thing I stear is the snow blower.

Sending my oe forks to Greg though (have been running RT .90 springs & my own preload spacers + fluid combos for years but the bushings and damping is oe 50K miles) and while apart replace my driving lights & direct headlight relayed loom with heavier gage wire or buy Eastern Beaver's kit cuz it has smaller relays. May replace my slides & jet needles with over 50k miles on them too. Hopefully will inegrate an GPS mount & wiring and re-do the heated grips.

You need a pair of ft peg brackets, I bought a set for the brake lever?

I just need the one bracket but if I can get the two for a decent price I'll buy them both and just send them off to the powdercoater along with the swingarm once it's done. That way I can swap everything over in one fell swoop...

RE: FL02SupaHawk996 ... you're lucky to have time for mods...I'm riding mine today:(

You cut me deep on that one. We'll get another 8-10" of snow tonight.

Nothing wrong with winter.... especially from the seat of a snowmobile :)

Sorry guys, rode again today (Sat. 01/10/09) and inadvertently powered up the front wheel running 50ish, gotta work on my control...LOL!
RC

Mikstr,

I see you have: Hyperpro shock spring with 8 mm spacer. It is a stock shock, or another manufacturer? If it is a stock shock, can they be re-built and re-valved?

By the way, Greg has just shipped my forks back. I am awaiting them, should be here in a day or two. He re-valved them and put springs to carry my weight (1.0kg springs). I'll be adding some SS front brake lines to go with my 900rr MC and 600f4i front calipers. That should about do it for my winter mods........

Yep, stock shock can be re-built. The shock I am currrently running is fitted with a Race Tech Gold Valve kit. I have a buddy who has a suspension shop and he claims that there is nothing wrong with the stock shock expect for the stock valving calibration. In other words, it is a decent re-valve job away from working very well. One thing I may have him do to mine is add a reservoir, adding compression adjustment in the process.

Don't forget that since the stock shock doesn't have a reservoir it's more difficult to modify. This is because you have to drill the shock body to release the nitrogen and then install a schrader valve to recharge it. Since there is no reservoir, the shocks are also prone to fade when pushed hard. You are correct, with the addition of RaceTech valving the shock can be made to work pretty well.

Does anyone know what doing this to a stock shock my run $$$?

Retail on the RaceTech Gold Valve alone is $200. I discount those to $170 when I do the installation. Normal installation is $50, adding a schrader valve is another $25. Total would be $245. For reference, most shops would probably charge $300-400 for this type of service.

Jamie,

Do you know what a heavier spring goes for? Im about 230 w/gear.

Sure, I sell springs for $85 installed.

So Jamie, am I understanding the latter part of this thread that you can rebuild/revalve the stock rear shock to perform better?

You bet, shock modifications are probably 75% of what I do!

Well, mods are mostly all done. Here is what is new for 09:
- braced and powdercoated (black) swingarm (along with powdercoated caliper bracket)
- powdercoated footrests (black)
- new upper triple clamp from 95 CBR900 (painted black, added red carbon cover); previous one had a hairline crack in it, the 95 is a nicer, fuller design
- dropped gearing back down to 15/43 (was running 42 rear)
- went back to stock airbox lid and brand new OEM air fliter (last dyno run showed dip in torque curve between 5-6.5K, likely a result of the turbulence in the aribox caused by modded lid)
- HRC 1/6 turn throttle tube on (carb synch performed too)
- Pazzo-style levers
- replaced shifter linkage joints with Heim joints

still waiting on:
- the machinist to be done pressing in the needle bearing on my new Jamie D shift lever
- need to replace one front fork seal (new last year?????)
- installation of remote reservoir to shock (will give me hi and low-speed compression damping adjustment)
- replace HYperpro progressive shock spring with linear OEM unit

In the longer term:
- engine rebuild and installation of custom 0.5 mm over JE hi-comp (11.5:1) pistons (can you say torque, muah ha ha ha...)

You didn't use Honda seals, did you?



What remote reservoir are you going to use that has both high and low speed adjusments?

Hi Jamie,

I bought some seals from eBay (forget the brand; my mistake I guess but the seals were all replaced last Spring before I had the forks installed). In terms of the reservoir, it comes from the front shock of a Ski-Doo factory snowcross sled (likely a Kayaba). My buddy just ordered the connecting hose (6" long with two 90 degree ends, will fasten the res it to the underside of the right side subframe) this week so as soon as I can get out there he'll fix it all up for me. Should be sweet when it's all done :)

cheers

Pretty typical. The aftermarket brand fork seals usually only last about one year. DOn't ever waste your time with anything other than seals that come in a bag that says 'Honda' on it.

Pictures....... PLEASE!! Wanna see your swingarm.

Pics will be coming soon. I want to wait until I get everything done (soon, very soon!)

I see you have done my heim joint mod on the shift rod. Pretty good mod I reckon, I am surprised more people haven't done it (that I know about anyway).

I reckon it was a great improvement for minimal cost and time. What do you think of it?

Hi Shayne,

I am currently only running the front Heim only (on shift arm) as I'm using the stock shift lever as I await my Jamie D unit to (finally!!!!!) return from the machinist. Between the two Heim joints and needle bearing on the pivot, there should be practically zero play and smooooth friction-free action. Will let you know once it's all together.

P.S. to Shayne: I PM'd blackvtwin on the OzFirestorm site, am looking for info on his interesting 2-1 exhaust (looks he is using a modded collector design). Hoping to hear back from his soon....