TPS ambiguity . help! im sinking
 

ok guys, in the knowledgebase, the TPS adjustment is written very well.... HOWEVER , this part seems unclear and you guys have helped incredibly in the past so i hope you do the same here.

heres the part of that post about TPS :
The TPS is located on the right side of the front carb. Remove the electrical connector. Place a shop cloth under the carbs. Center punch the shear bolts and drill them to about 1/8 inch depth using the 1/16 bit. Then drill them out using the 1/4 bit. Some people have reported success using a dremel to slot the shear head screws and then removing them with a small screwdriver. Suit your self. Remove the shop cloth with the drill filings.

Once you have the TPS off you will see that the holes are elongated to facilitate adjustment. Replace the TPS using the 5mm screws with washers and set it to 500 ohms by rotating it on the screws. If you cant get it low enough then the tabs on the throttle shaft will have to be adjusted, Sorry but I forgot to take a picture of that! To get a larger range of adjustment downwards bend the leftmost tab to the left a small amount. reinstall the TPS and set it to 500 ohms. Repeat in small steps if your first tweak isn't enough. Tighten the screws and RECHECK.

can ANYONE explain this further pleasssseeee ?? im gonna do it on sunday... i just dont understand where i put the bolts im buying today (the 5mm with washers) . also , i have a center punch but dont know what to center punch. i guess if i had a piucture of this it would help (guys like pictures :D ) anywasy, how can turning a screw adjust the impedence? ? ? i got the tools, the voltmeter , etc. ready to rock... just the directions seem ambiguous. please clarifty for a fellow SH rider. thanks!!! :P

Re: TPS ambiguity . help! im sinking
 

I did this about 6 weeks ago. It worked wonders. I would check the resistance before drilling. You'll probably need to drill or Dremel, as i did, but if it's properly calibrated, there's no reason to drill. the screws that you drill out are what is left of a factory installed "tamper-proof" screws that have a breakaway drive head. They look like a series of concentric rings. The center point is the breakaway point and also the drill point. I think that if drill, you need a right angle drill for some control. I chose the Dremel, instead. The screws mount the sensor to the carb frame. I slotted mine to dial it in. If yours is off it will be like rejetting. Pull from a stop is flawless.

Re: TPS ambiguity . help! im sinking
 

you wrote:

The center point is the breakaway point and also the drill point. I think that if drill, you need a right angle drill for some control. I chose the Dremel, instead. The screws mount the sensor to the carb frame. I slotted mine to dial it in.

everything is clear EXCEPT a couple things. the two screws that hold the sensor to the carb need to be slotted and pulled out? in other words, theyre junk afterwards, and thats that the 5mm hex screws are for? to replace the two holding the sensor on? :oops: also man, you say you slotted yours to dial it in, meaning you used a dremel (which i have) slotted it and turned it to the correct ohm setting? are these the same 2 that hold it together to the carb? if so, do i even need the 2 5mm bolts if i dont drill? im all whacked out here man.... just dont see how 2 screws that tighten the tps to the carb can also be used to adjust impedence.

Re: TPS ambiguity . help! im sinking
 

the two screws allow the TPS body to rotate relative to the pin on the other side of the TPS. I think I elongated the left side of each hole to allow more clockwise rotation of the body. Push out the brass and use a round file to take out the necessary material. Then reinsert the brass. you should be able to dial it in using a digital meter and a little tension on one of the new screws.you can reach me direct at <thetophatflash@comcast.net>. I'll be home all day sunday if you need timely help.