R/R replacement
 

I'm righ in the middle of replacing the OEM R/R on my 2002 VTR. I'm replacing the OEM unit with a new R1 unit. The R1 unit is larger. When I pulled the stock unit it was small but had fins and a nice aluminum backing plate for the unit to make contact with between the R/R and the4 frame. Also, there in no ground wire. All the wires are very tight as far as length, I'm going to need to add length to the wires for the new R/R unit. Most of all, is it common for the 2002 to not have a ground wire? Is that want the groovy plate is for?

The plate on the back has no purpose if I am not mistaken. Ground should be connected to one of the bolts that holds the r/r in place. Can you see a ground wire anywhere near there?

no ground wire anywhere. I expected there to be one on the mounting bolt from the pix I've seen but there was nada. No ground to be found. Did anything change from '97 to 2002? There was the hot, the neg, (is green) and 3 yellow wires. I hooked them up with the new plugs for the new R/R. There is now power to the pos wire at this point. All fuses are fine. I guess I need a schematic.

As far as I remember, it will work without the ground wire the same way

Older bikes do not have the ground wire at the R/R

Is a 2002 considered an older bike? The R/R for this bike seemed like a nicer unit than the ones being replaced in the informational post. Those have no fins and the loom comes in from behind the R/R. This bike, the R/R is about the same size as the others but it has cooling fins, NO. SH693-12
5 pins, er, I mean spade connectors. No ground wire and the loom comes in other end, in front of the R/R. Also, there is a large box towards the tail on the sub frame, it has a connector too. The photos of the other machines show no such box there. I guess I need to go back and check me fuses. I did forget to mention that I did disconnect the battery neg. terminal, but, while I was soldering my connectors I got a spark. My neg terminal managed to find it's way back to the battery. I disconnected the pos at that point and set it outside the frame so that wouldn't happen again. Did I blow something up? Just a little spark. On a beemer that can cause the diode board to take a crap.

Check your main fuse, it may have blown.

Not true, my early 98 does.

Then maybe it is the newer ones that don't.

Yruyur and I both worked on ours, one had it, one didn't, his was a 98, mine a 2000. I forget which didn't have it, but assumed it was the older. Perhaps it was the newer.

These pics are from my 2000.
Attachment 24337
Attachment 24338
Attachment 24339

those are the photos I referred to. My bike is a bit different. There is a large metal box about where your signal rely is and the wire loom come from the where the coil lives. That isn't really an issue. I was remarking on the absence of a ground wire for the R/R. I'll snap a pic and load it later.

I want to thank those who made comments and gave me a little advice. I also just realized this thread probably belongs in the technical thread.
My problem was, indeed, the main 30A fuse coming from the battery. I replaced that and all is well. The battery is charging at 14.10 to 14.17
The change was really painless and the only hard part was trying to figure out where to put the relay since the space was so tight at the R/R and the wires were very short making for tight fit everywhere. I ended up mounting the relay under the set behind the rear coil. Everything is nice and tidy and I won't have to worry about the R/R failure now. Next project is CCT's I don't have my garage any more so it's a challenge to find a place to work on it. I am confidant of my skills but I need a place to work.

I did my ccts in a four foot by 6 foot concrete area outside, it was not fun. I even knocked my bike off the stands because of the little space, but luckily I had all of the plastics off so no damage done.

Ccts are easy if you are prepared, shouldn't take more than a couple hours, and most of that is removing parts that are in the way

the problem with where I am is, we are in a condo building with secure parking. The HOA's are explicit about no working on vehicles. Changing out the R/R is one thing since I didn't really have to take much off the bike. CCT's will require a bit more and it take a lot of time and effort to try to be discrete. I'm torn between having a shop do it and doing it myself. I'd rather do it myself. I like to do the basic stuff myself. I may be able to get my ridding buddy to let me use his garage, I'll need to appease his wife tho.

This.

?:confused: