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-   -   No power to front coil idk why (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/general-discussion-30/no-power-front-coil-idk-why-36342/)

Westuck Jun 13, 2025 02:28 PM

No power to front coil idk why
 
Help
2002 superhawk996 won't run coil doesn't have power rear does front does not .Does bike have one or two pulse generators?Why does bike have a CDI CONVERTER BOX and a ECM/ECU or ICU or whatever it is?.Also do both coils fire at the same time? I've checked all I know I NEED HELP ASAP

Westuck Jun 15, 2025 06:33 AM

Come on guys someone knows something surely.I want to ride this thing

xeris Jun 15, 2025 07:03 AM

Have you swapped the coils to see if the problem spark moves? Is the ground to that coil good? Is the lead to the coil within spec? Have you looked at the spark plug from that cylinder?

Westuck Jun 15, 2025 12:18 PM

I have swapped the coils the front coil has spark if you put it on the back.I have also checked the ground and both seem ok I checked for continuity from the ignition module converter too the coil and both wire seem good .The plugs well they don't look that good I cleaned them up but even then the spark looks a little weak but that might be from a weak battery

xeris Jun 15, 2025 01:18 PM

Check the wires from the pulse generator and ICU for continuity. Resistance of those wires, not knowing what value, you could compare to each other. Ideally you check the output of the pulse generator with a DMM with peak voltage capture done at the generator and the ICU while cranking (white/yellow and yellow at the ICU). It's 0.7V. Also the voltage from the converter to the coil while cranking.(100V minimum). Again you'll need a way to measure that voltage. A charged battery is important if you testing voltage outputs.

xeris Jun 15, 2025 01:42 PM

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sup...6ed9b62d04.jpg

xeris Jun 16, 2025 05:08 AM

Second gen, 2001 on bikes, had a security system marked H.I.S.S. Check the pulse generator for voltage output (0.7V), wire and connector to CDI for continuity (white/yellow and yellow). Check wires for continuity, voltage output (100V minimum) and connectors from converter to coils. Most likely no power getting to the coil. Start with a fully charged battery.

Westuck Jun 16, 2025 11:44 AM

Ok I don't understand I've checked the continuity from the plug of the pulse generator with the ICU unhooked and I've check continuity from the convertor to the plug on the pulse generator unhooked I've checked the continuty from the pulse generator from yellow wire to white wire there is nothing and I was afraid to check voltage with the ICU or convertor hooked up and d also wasnt sure what to set my multi meter on is that ac or dc and it's not digital but it's a good one but I'm not a electrician

Westuck Jun 16, 2025 11:49 AM

There is only one plug with power going to it on the ICU with the key on and the kill switch on so idk

xeris Jun 16, 2025 02:42 PM

The engine will need to be cranked to get a voltage signal from the pulse generator. It's DC and only 0.7V. You will need, I think, a DMM that has a peak hold feature. Since the rear coil fires, that tells me that the pulse generator is good. Yes the engine is a wasted spark design. The wire to the coil primary side from the converter unit could be bad, the connector at one end or the other of that same wire is bad (not likely) or the converter unit is faulty. Have you checked the front cylinder spark plug lead for resistance?

John O Jun 16, 2025 05:16 PM

This is a long shot but: Have you ever had the voltage regulator go bad and fry the battery? Not long after that happened to my '99 one cylinder's ignition module failed. I guess the over-voltage from the regulator damaged the pulser. I replaced both modules with used ones from a '98. No problem since and 10% better gas mileage too. Good luck with your efforts.

Westuck Jun 17, 2025 06:42 AM

Yes the battery that was in it was fried it won't even take a charge it's a AGM BATTERY so that could be possible Do you know what the red light on front of the bike above the headlight is for? It's flashing

Westuck Jun 17, 2025 06:51 AM

I checked the wires from the converter for continuity they checked out fine. Resistance on the coils lead I have not checked.. Someone told me it was the security that if the red light on the front above the headlight was on then the security has it blocked from starting is this true?

Westuck Jun 17, 2025 08:16 AM

What your saying could be my problem too did you have to replace the pulse too and where could I get the convertor box or ICU(used of course) our local Honda shop wants $800 for just the converter box that's just insane to me

xeris Jun 17, 2025 08:56 AM

If you can swap the wires from the converter to the coils, that will tell you that the converter has output on only one side. Seems likely it is the converter is bad. Is the bike a 2001 or later?

John O Jun 17, 2025 09:39 AM


Originally Posted by Westuck (Post 417358)
What your saying could be my problem too did you have to replace the pulse too and where could I get the convertor box or ICU(used of course) our local Honda shop wants $800 for just the converter box that's just insane to me

I don't know about the red light above your headlight, '98 and '99 models don't have one, no need for security I guess.

As for the ignition modules, I got mine off the internet. The billing says my purchase was"ECH98VTR1000F CDI" from Cycle Therapy in Peninsula, Ohio. The charge slip says "Coil ignition P/N 30501-MBB-E30" and "Cap Assy. P/N 30700-MBB-640." 2 each of both items, Total cost was $218, a huge saving over dealer price. I've put 72k miles on this replacement set. I suggest you only consider buying from actual companies for this type of used part. Modules for your 2002 could be different part numbers, of course.

Maybe your first step is the replace the voltage regulator. If you do, buy the multiprong plug that goes into it and test to make sure they mate before paying. The last pair I bought didn't mate.

Westuck Jun 17, 2025 01:15 PM

Thank you both for the help it has been very usefully I got the bike to run but only for about a minute then it cuts off .I think the security is doing something .If you reset the switch like it says too which it says put the key in the ignition turn to the lock positions then take key out and turn on twice then turn on the kill switch it starts up every single time but just for a minute and I just found one of the slide diaphrams on the carb has a few holes in it so I'm tryn to fix that and then maybe I can ride it .THIS THING IS A Complicated . STILL WONT RUN SOMEBODY WANT TO BUY OR TRADE FOR THIS BIKE APPARENTLY IT WANTS A NEW OWNER AND THATS FIND WITH ME

John O Jun 17, 2025 02:40 PM


Originally Posted by Westuck (Post 417361)
Thank you both for the help it has been very usefully I got the bike to run but only for about a minute then it cuts off .I think the security is doing something .If you reset the switch like it says too which it says put the key in the ignition turn to the lock positions then take key out and turn on twice then turn on the kill switch it starts up every single time but just for a minute and I just found one of the slide diaphrams on the carb has a few holes in it so I'm tryn to fix that and then maybe I can ride it

How weird! I'm glad my older VTRs are too stone-age to have such wonderful electronics. Keep up with the progress notes.


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