New owner Newer to the forum
11-22-2018, 01:23 PM
#1
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 30
New owner Newer to the forum
Just picked up a 2003 Superhawk from the Dealership I work for. Got it for $500 and it has been sitting in our inventory for 3 years. It has just over 10,000 miles on it. It has a cracked oil pan so I picked up a used one for $35 that I'll be putting on. The bike has been down a couple times so I'll be repairing and refinishing the fairings. (I was a collision tech before I became a service writer.) The engine covers are scratched so I'll pull them off and have them powder coated. Figured I could try to make the bike a little more modern looking. Needless to say, the carbs need cleaned and rebuilt. Figured while they are off I'll jet them for the Yosh slip ons. Anything else I should do while the carbs are out of the way? Air box mods, breather mods, coolant mods etc. Links would be very much appreciated.
Thank you very much in advance.
Thank you very much in advance.
11-22-2018, 02:51 PM
#2
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Other stuff
Research the failure prone RR
consider swapping with a fH020 MOSFET and associated items
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...30-00-a-34792/
reserach cam chain tensions and consider manual ones
research light weight flywheel
and consider replacement
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...lywheel-35131/
Clutch master and slave drain, disassembly, clean fit new seals, braided steel lines
same with brakes
service suspension, ride it
notice its undersprung and then research options
chat with Jaime at DMr Performance Suspension ? Performance Motorcycle Suspension and Chassis
consider swapping with a fH020 MOSFET and associated items
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...30-00-a-34792/
reserach cam chain tensions and consider manual ones
research light weight flywheel
and consider replacement
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...lywheel-35131/
Clutch master and slave drain, disassembly, clean fit new seals, braided steel lines
same with brakes
service suspension, ride it
notice its undersprung and then research options
chat with Jaime at DMr Performance Suspension ? Performance Motorcycle Suspension and Chassis
11-25-2018, 11:47 AM
#7
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 460
Welcome to the Forum. Although our beloved Super Hawk has been out of production for 14 years, there are still a few active and knowledgeable members/fans. I've gleaned numerous sources and solutions on everything from Jetting (Hawk8541), R&R replacement (E. Marquez), Lightened flywheels(E. Marquez), Suspension (Jaimie Daugherty), Various parts (Captaincaos) ad infinitum. Many of the opinions, and supporting facts, differ, as do our bikes and needs. Over the years I've found what works best for me. Utilizing "Search", you can too.
Central coast like the SLO area?
Central coast like the SLO area?
11-26-2018, 07:02 AM
#8
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
The carb heater lines I believe are needed to address only a very small and complex condition range that most bikes will never experience.
After lots of discussion, observations and experience with others as well as some talks with a friend that is an expert in carb icing conditions and ways it is dealt with for aircraft ... I believe the majority can delete the carb lines and never notice a significant difference (carb icing and run-ability issues) Though I also believe many in colder climates riders will get better run ability after starting but before the motor is fully warmed up with coolant lines connected to the carbs.
With just a little attention to some new O rings, upgraded silicone hose and appropriate silicone hose clamps, you can leave them connected and not see leakages issues for 10's of years.
After lots of discussion, observations and experience with others as well as some talks with a friend that is an expert in carb icing conditions and ways it is dealt with for aircraft ... I believe the majority can delete the carb lines and never notice a significant difference (carb icing and run-ability issues) Though I also believe many in colder climates riders will get better run ability after starting but before the motor is fully warmed up with coolant lines connected to the carbs.
With just a little attention to some new O rings, upgraded silicone hose and appropriate silicone hose clamps, you can leave them connected and not see leakages issues for 10's of years.
11-26-2018, 08:28 AM
#9
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 30
Welcome to the Forum. Although our beloved Super Hawk has been out of production for 14 years, there are still a few active and knowledgeable members/fans. I've gleaned numerous sources and solutions on everything from Jetting (Hawk8541), R&R replacement (E. Marquez), Lightened flywheels(E. Marquez), Suspension (Jaimie Daugherty), Various parts (Captaincaos) ad infinitum. Many of the opinions, and supporting facts, differ, as do our bikes and needs. Over the years I've found what works best for me. Utilizing "Search", you can too.
Central coast like the SLO area?
Central coast like the SLO area?
11-27-2018, 12:13 AM
#10
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 460
I know the area well. I pass through there every month or so on my weekend trips from the OC to the SF Bay Area. Now that Coast Highway past Ragged Point is open again, it makes for a fun 1000 mile weekend on my Superhawk. Yes, I'm one of those old guys that loves doing 5-600 mile days. I have family in the bay area and Bakersfield so I get to see a couple of my siblings, kids, and grandkids. And, I get free lodging. LOL
Maybe we'll have to meet up sometime and share "Hawk" tales.
Maybe we'll have to meet up sometime and share "Hawk" tales.
12-04-2018, 09:40 AM
#11
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 30
Research the failure prone RR
consider swapping with a fH020 MOSFET and associated items
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...30-00-a-34792/
reserach cam chain tensions and consider manual ones
research light weight flywheel
and consider replacement
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...lywheel-35131/
Clutch master and slave drain, disassembly, clean fit new seals, braided steel lines
same with brakes
service suspension, ride it
notice its undersprung and then research options
chat with Jaime at DMr Performance Suspension ? Performance Motorcycle Suspension and Chassis
consider swapping with a fH020 MOSFET and associated items
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...30-00-a-34792/
reserach cam chain tensions and consider manual ones
research light weight flywheel
and consider replacement
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...lywheel-35131/
Clutch master and slave drain, disassembly, clean fit new seals, braided steel lines
same with brakes
service suspension, ride it
notice its undersprung and then research options
chat with Jaime at DMr Performance Suspension ? Performance Motorcycle Suspension and Chassis
12-04-2018, 01:31 PM
#12
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
The OEM one works fine when its clean, new seals, fresh fluid (as is the master)
Can I feel a difference between a well working OEM one and the Oberon? Yes I think I do...... i have not done any blind testing nor swapped back and forth a few times...
One day I was using a working clean OEM slave with fluid less than 4 months old, later that evening I was using the Oberon and it felt different, travel about the same but smoother engagement and a better feel.
Its not in the top 50 things Id upgrade or MOD on a VTR, but its not snake oil bling either.
12-06-2018, 06:46 PM
#13
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 30
I decided that I'll rebuild the clutch slave cylinder since I'm going to be flipping the bike. I am going to have it powder coated while it's apart to add a little bling. It's going out with my valve covers and brake calipers to get coated red. Also I picked up a set a gsxr1000 front calipers for it.
12-07-2018, 05:05 AM
#14
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,033
With the carbs off consider thumb fuel screws. Saved my bacon for sure since removing them to adjust is very time consuming.
Carb heaters are pointless. I ride year round in NYC and had mine disabled for years even in 0*F. No difference in running or starting. I think it was a Honda committee that put them on.
Carb heaters are pointless. I ride year round in NYC and had mine disabled for years even in 0*F. No difference in running or starting. I think it was a Honda committee that put them on.
12-07-2018, 05:53 AM
#15
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Essex, UK
Posts: 1,707
My understanding of it is that carburetor icing is not a temperature problem, but rather a relative humidity or dew point problem and more likely happen in humid & warm weather.
Any Floridians?
Any Floridians?
12-07-2018, 07:09 AM
#16
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 30
With the carbs off consider thumb fuel screws. Saved my bacon for sure since removing them to adjust is very time consuming.
Carb heaters are pointless. I ride year round in NYC and had mine disabled for years even in 0*F. No difference in running or starting. I think it was a Honda committee that put them on.
Carb heaters are pointless. I ride year round in NYC and had mine disabled for years even in 0*F. No difference in running or starting. I think it was a Honda committee that put them on.
12-09-2018, 10:07 AM
#20
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Capped or a bypass hose, both have 2 leak points so no advantage there.
If choose between just those two options I suggest is a bypass hose...as its easier to get high quality 8mm silicone hose and quality silicone hose clamps then it is silicone caps designed to cap coolant ports. Rubber caps do not last, they get old and age crack in short order.
Or if your sure you want to get rid of the coolant hoses, seal both ports permanently with plugs and silver solder, Thats what I did on my 98, reducing possible failure points by 2, never a bad thing. On my 2001 I decided to replace all the coolant lines, o rings, ect and have a fully working system that will outlast my ownership of the bike.
If I was to remove the coolant lines again, I will cap the ports permanently as I see that as the best option
If choose between just those two options I suggest is a bypass hose...as its easier to get high quality 8mm silicone hose and quality silicone hose clamps then it is silicone caps designed to cap coolant ports. Rubber caps do not last, they get old and age crack in short order.
Or if your sure you want to get rid of the coolant hoses, seal both ports permanently with plugs and silver solder, Thats what I did on my 98, reducing possible failure points by 2, never a bad thing. On my 2001 I decided to replace all the coolant lines, o rings, ect and have a fully working system that will outlast my ownership of the bike.
If I was to remove the coolant lines again, I will cap the ports permanently as I see that as the best option
12-10-2018, 07:15 AM
#22
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
YES worthwhile MOD, as is the shifter assembly from DMr ..though I think I bought his last new one some months back. If he is no longer making them you can still mod the stock with with spherical rod ends.. DO NOT GET Teflon lined rod ends, they are too stiff... you need quality 3 piece non lined and then keep then cleaned and lubed.
12-10-2018, 03:29 PM
#25
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 30
12-19-2018, 08:38 PM
#26
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 30
The fairing/headlight stay is bent in on the left side of the bike. It's not much but it's enough that the fairing won't fit correctly once I repair it. Can anyone tell me the distance between the left and right? Maybe the distance between the left and the gauges? Something I can use to bend it back into place. Thanks.
12-20-2018, 04:36 AM
#27
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
I keep threatening to buy a new upper cowl stay, build a alignment fixture for it, so bent ones could be trued up. And I did buy a new one,,,,,,,then bent it in my crash 2 years ago before i got around to building the fixture 
Best suggestion is, don't worry about measurements...tweak it to fit.... they tend to bend the "leg" on the side the bike went over on..but impacts to the front, even say sliding on its side into a curb, tree, car or another bike is enough from what Ive seen to bend the stay in multiple directions / parts.
Short of buying a new one at about $190 I don't think we will get original and correct measurements. Unless someone has a kept under glass OEM perfect VTR1000F they are willing to dissemble and send me the upper cowl stay...
Best suggestion is, don't worry about measurements...tweak it to fit.... they tend to bend the "leg" on the side the bike went over on..but impacts to the front, even say sliding on its side into a curb, tree, car or another bike is enough from what Ive seen to bend the stay in multiple directions / parts.
Short of buying a new one at about $190 I don't think we will get original and correct measurements. Unless someone has a kept under glass OEM perfect VTR1000F they are willing to dissemble and send me the upper cowl stay...
12-20-2018, 09:56 AM
#28
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 30
I keep threatening to buy a new upper cowl stay, build a alignment fixture for it, so bent ones could be trued up. And I did buy a new one,,,,,,,then bent it in my crash 2 years ago before i got around to building the fixture
Best suggestion is, don't worry about measurements...tweak it to fit.... they tend to bend the "leg" on the side the bike went over on..but impacts to the front, even say sliding on its side into a curb, tree, car or another bike is enough from what Ive seen to bend the stay in multiple directions / parts.
Short of buying a new one at about $190 I don't think we will get original and correct measurements. Unless someone has a kept under glass OEM perfect VTR1000F they are willing to dissemble and send me the upper cowl stay...
Best suggestion is, don't worry about measurements...tweak it to fit.... they tend to bend the "leg" on the side the bike went over on..but impacts to the front, even say sliding on its side into a curb, tree, car or another bike is enough from what Ive seen to bend the stay in multiple directions / parts.
Short of buying a new one at about $190 I don't think we will get original and correct measurements. Unless someone has a kept under glass OEM perfect VTR1000F they are willing to dissemble and send me the upper cowl stay...
12-20-2018, 03:58 PM
#29
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
So I work at a Honda dealership. My cost on the fairing stay is $177.29 and there are 5 left in the Honda warehouses. How long would it take you to make up a jig if I was nice enough to purchase one and send it to you on loan? Lol. Think we could work out some kind of deal?
