Needing info and advice........
 

I am looking into purchasing a used bike. I have found a low mileage 2005 Superhawk at a great price. The guy is the second owner and older than 55. He has two other bikes and is looking to getting rid of the SH. It has been unmolested with all the fluids changed within the last 1000 miles. It comes with a set of aftermarket pipes that aren't on the bike because he said he likes to keep it quiet as possible for the sake of the neighbors. I have bookmarked every page I have found helpful about front forks, CCT's, and carb work. Will there be anything wrong with me sticking with the stock CCT's and if I keep the automatics, should I change them as soon as I get the bike, just to be safe? I am planning on doing racetech valves and springs, carb work, keeping the rear shock stock, putting on the other pipes and putting stiffer springs in the clutch. I am not a racer, but I do like spirited riding. I just came off of a 954 that was stolen from me last summer. I got to ride her for three years and I think she was jinxed from day one. She gave me some dark stories for sure, some fun, some scary as s%$#. If I keep replacing the auto CCT's every 12000 miles or so, How long will it take for the cam chains to stretch and need replacing? Would replacing the auto CCT's every 12000 miles be a good thing? All answers greatly appreciated.

For the CCT question, yes you can run auto's with no real problem and the service interval is 30K miles not 12K.

Yes you should change them right away or ASAP as you don't know how they were treated before you got the bike, no matter what the previous owner says...;)

As for the Cam Chains, well I am at over 90K miles on mine and the chains are still just fine.

+1 to 8541Hawk and VTRsurfer
You're likely to be disappointed with the VTR's front brakes after riding a 954. There's a very helpful thread in the forum on bolt-on front brake modifications. The most cost-effective handling improvement would result from installing fresh tires, shimming the rear shock, changing the fork springs to ones that are suitable for your weight and riding style, setting sag and checking wheel alignment.

Thank you gentlemen. I will not do clutch springs, change auto CCT's, front springs, and carbs. As my weight fluctuates between 185 to 193, can I get by with doing nothing to the rear shock other than a couple of turns, or will shimming it greatly help? I am just wanting to keep the SH as simple and useable as i can.

If you do nothing else, change the front springs to Sonic or Racetech straight rate springs. I also weigh around 180 and I routinely bottomed the progressive stock front springs over harsh bumps until I changed this. Shimming the rear shock is a simple easy cheap upgrade too. I would leave the stock rear shock with zero preload unless you're carrying a passenger alot.

Ok, Here go's my 2 cents worth, and I have owned 2 of those super rare Titanium Superhawks. I have also seen that bike advertized you are interested in, and its a real good deal for sure.

Number one fix for me would be to replace the front fork springs. Just this alone is the best overall improvement for your superhawk.

Then front brake lines.

After that install a shim on top of the rear shock. Just 3-4MM will make a difference.

Definitely no need to replace clutch springs, and I love to wheelie my bikes. Never once had an issue with a superhawk clutch.

Jetting? Well, 8541Hawk has a really good thread all about that.

CCT ??? Ok. For me I have never done this? never seen the need to? I know many on here scream if you don't do this your playing with fire? I'd say I have about a total of over 60,000miles on superhawks and never had a CCT issue. It may have been a issue with early model superhawks, but the later ones just seem to not have this problem? There is lots of talk on here about it. One thing I will say is that more people screw up their engines installing CCT's than those that have CCT's failures?

First, why don't you just ride the bike for a few months to see what you do & don't like before you go making any real changes? Superhawk are really great all-round bikes. I'm already looking for another one. That is how I saw the bike you are interested in. I would buy that bike in a heartbeat if it was closer to me. Sell those pipes, and buy a Sargent seat, and go ride. Enjoy your new ride. I'm jealous, that a great bike your going to get.

If and when you do the fork springs you're gonna realize how bad the shock isso start saving now. I have 4mm and 5mm shims if you're interested, let me know.

First off, welcome!

+1 on riding it for a second before you start making a bunch of changes at once.
The rear shock is pretty stiff and worthless for making adjustments. When they're talking shimming, they're talking about a mechanical alteration. The top of the shock bolts to the rear of the frame, you just put a few washers or shims in between the two and you've raised your rear ride height.

^ I disagree with part a; agree with part b. The cct's can fail regardless of year or mileage if this forum is any indicator (and people who waited or said they're not a problem often paid the expensive rebuild price). No correlation points to the newer ones being less prone other than age. But none of our bikes are getting younger.

Many installation failures happen when installing manual CCT's. Install autos and you're less likely to have problems (although you can screw this up too). Follow directions or find a buddy who can and the installation is not that difficult.

Bottom line is, you're probably OK not replacing the CCT's, but I don't like to base top end rebuild costs that could have been avoided with $100 of prevention on probably.

Agreed, it makes all of the difference in the world!

Thank you, thank you. I know I will put the half pipes on as soon as I get the bike. Do I need to do the carbs as soon as I do the pipes? Forgive me for where this was posted. Noob to the forum. I have already bookmarked Hawks post on carb jetting, but do not know if I need to do it when I add the canisters.

New slip-ons don't significantly affect the jetting... they're more of an aesthetic/weight mod.

Either way the bike is lean on the bottom end from the factory IMHO.

True, I was just reading it as "I'll get to the carbs, will I be able to still ride the bike if I put the pipes on?"

But, yeah, +1 on going through the carbs either way ;)

One last thing (for now), does the 2005 have the updated R/R from the factory or does it have the other?

It's updated, but that's not saying much....

You can peek into your tail and see. The older ones are solid blocks with no heat sinks. Yours will have cute little baby fins on it.

I'm replacing mine and I've noticed the oem R/R on this bike, 2002, is bigger than the stock ones I've seen posted here and it has fins but it's smallish compared to the R1 unit. I'm sure its stock as it still has the factory markings on it, PO didn't do anything to this bike and he is first owner.