SuperHawk Forum - Just got my 02 running

Check the Regulator / rectifier plug now for damage, corrosion..if not melted , clean and you can go till it dies leaving you stranded with a trashed battery and if unlucky a dead instrument cluster. or replace with MOSFET at your convenience and not worry about it. Likely see better charging voltage with the MOSFET RR upgrade as long as the wiring is done well.

Cam chain tensioners are a known issue, mostly the front. Not all will have a OEM CCT failure, the problem is there is no predicting which one will fail, when the spring fractures the cams go out of time and you bend valves at least..... Replace with manual tensioners, but only if you or a trusted mechanic can install them correctly...many a motor has been damaged by incorrect installation.

The service manual for our bikes is available on line, look in the Knowledge Base sub forum for the link.

The bike is picky for properly adjusted carbs, at a minimum, have them Synced, and adjust the TPS to about 500 OHMs....500 is a starting point and a great set and forget it number.,,,but some have reported their specific bike runs better at a little above or below that 500 number. But I dont think anyone will disagree, they all run better at 500 then they do at the factory setting of much higher

After that, just ride until you find something you dont like.... I doubt anything that can go wrong has not already and been fixed in a multitude of ways..Nor is there likely a significant MOD that has not been done...So the info is all here, just ask.

INHO, and what I do for the folks I talk into a VTR.... the bike "Needs" suspension work..valved and sprung for the rider.... Forks can be modded and reused, shock can be sprung for weight but really is not worth doing more..Best bang for the buck here is a modified CBR600f4i shock valved and sprung for you.... This is done by DMr Performance Suspension ? Performance Motorcycle Suspension and Chassis

The brakes should be at least serviced.... Lines upgraded with stainless steel lines, master and calipers flushed, then filled with quality DOT 5.1 fluid and bled well.
Drop in some new quality pads and the brakes are not bad... Improvable, but not horrible. If they are still sponger after that above you have air in the system of there is compressible 'gunk" built up in the calipers that will take a detail cleaning.

Flush the clutch master and slave cylinder, or better order the service parts and detail clean/ rebuild both, add a stainless steel line, fill with quality DOT 5.1 fluid and bleed.... NOTE many times it takes back bleeding to rid the system of air trapped in the slave.