Chain rivet tool
 

What would be a cheap Chain rivet tool that I can use ?
I found one on ebay for like $17

Join the chain off the bike using pin hammer, punch & vice to flatten the link pin and then take off the footpeg and hanger to slip the linked chain on in one. Just have a torque wrench on hand to do up the swing arm pivot nut.

If you search Youtube for "Harbor freight chain tool modification" you will see several videos come up for how to modify the HB chain break tool into a rivet tool.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gSuY...6EEAE&index=26

I have not tried this myself yet, but I did buy the tool and will be using it in the spring to install my new chain

I saw the same video it looks like it would work.
I saw this to http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/110631568699

Would anyone recommend using this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/110631568699

this maybe a dumb question by why not use the master link that comes with the chain? i know the manual said not to use a link, how ever i have had no bad experiences with them, once i had one stretch but i use the wrong master for the chain i had. got me though a race(enduro). just make sure the clip is facing the direction of the chain pull. round end forward so it won't pull off going though the swingarm slide material.

That one only presses the Master Link side plate on and will not rivet the new link. I would recommend just getting a tool that does it all. I personally bought the Harbor Frieght one for $17 and it did just fine. Not as good as my buddy's RK tool, but it did the job. The Harbor Frieght one will do everything and the only mods I had to do to it where put a bolt in the othere side of it so it would not push the new rivet out and use that little steel ball inside of it to rivet the new link on. You cant beat it for the price.

Well the chain is a rather important part of your bike, so I just can't see going cheep when it comes time to buy the tools you need to install one.

Save up a little bit and buy a "name brand" like Motion Pro or RK (which is the one I use) and you will be much better off in the long run.

Some chains don't come with a clip type master link. Mine came w/a rivet type... You could buy a clip type separately if you look hard, but seems best to use the one that came with it to me...

Well you can get either type of master link with most chains. There has been (and probably will always be) a difference of opinion on which is best to use.

To simplify things the clip links are easier to install but the rivet types are stronger. So run whatever lets you sleep the best at night but this guy ran a clip link and I have never seen this type of failure with a rivet link

Attachment 10852

That broke at the master link?

Yes the master link failed on that chain......:eek:

not sure if one would be stronger over the other with the plate and the clip on a clip style, i have seen rivets pull out from improper staking and over tightening from the rivet tool. and seen clips come off due to improper direction of the clip.

agreed with what ever helps you sleep at night.

Does anyone have rivet tool laying around that I can borrow and I will ship it back to you.

Ive seen way more failures on hatchet job rivet link installs then clip master links.. and of those clip types, almost all of them were ID'ed as improper install.. ie distorted the clip at install, or installed the clip back wards.

Done right, either method works. especially on a relatively low power VTR

+1

I would let you borrow mine, but a friend of mine borrowed it 3 months ago and hasn't gave it back yet. I guess its taking him a while lol.

This is why I stated going cheep on a chain tool is not really a good idea.

Well actually a SH is a bit harder on chains than a I4 bike.

The reason is even though the SH makes less Hp the high torque and the 270-450 firing order really yanks on the chain which puts more stress on the chain.

For a track bike or a dirtbike a clip link is the way to go... For a bike like the VTR where you do some miles between sprocket and chain swaps I'd most definetly choose a rivet link...

The reasons have been named before in the thread, but let's go over them again... It's stronger, it needs less maintainance/checking up on, and while low terminal HP, the VTR tends to destroy chains and sprockets that IL4's with more HP has no problems with based tn the torque and the delivery of said torque...

Going cheap on the tool is fine if you know what you are doing, but otherwise not a very good idea...

Just my opinion...

Thanks t-dogg if he gives it back let me know.



Yeah I might buy a motion pro or rent one, it's just been bone chilling cold here lately, so I'm in no rush.

It's tool AND user...
Never meant to say a I4 600cc bike was harder on a chain.. just that a VTR is not that much of a TQ or HP motor in modern day big bore bikes. I like my SH, have ridden others, and truthfully...they are fun, cheap to mod, play with do it all bike for the street. but in any non huge build up motor form, they are underpowered by modern 1000 or more CC I4 bikes...


It's a learned opinion, all will do what works for them.Myself included.

I'm 45, been riding, racing and wrenching on bikes since I was 13.. I have 6 bikes on my shop now, none have a riveted link chain on them, :eek:

The VTR has 27,000 miles put on it by me, clip link is still there :rolleyes: and in perfect condition :D I might replace it when I change sprockets in :)a few weeks.

I have folks I do work for that insist In a riveted master link.. so ya I have a set of tools to do it and the knowledge to install it correctly. There is nothing wrong with a riveted link,, they work great.... just not really required as some here seem to imply.

Yes the user has a lot to do with it. Hell I have used a ball bearing and a "c" clamp before but that really wasn't the point.

As we are throwing out resumes...... well I'm older than you and started at right about the same age, so yeah I've been around bikes for a while now.

As for which link to use, well I have the same thoughts as tweety. Dirt & Track, use a clip. On the street, use a rivet link.

The reason I tell people this is that track bikes and dirt bikes are generally better maintained and the clip should be check rather frequently.

Now on the street bikes that I service I always recommend a rivet link. Why? Because most of the people I deal with have to have the idea of checking tire pressure beaten into their heads before they even do that simple task. I've had people show up saying something is wrong with their bike only to find out it has 8 psi in the front tire.

So if folks skip something as simple as checking the tire pressure before a ride, do you really think that they will bother to check the clip on the master link ever?

In the interest of their safety (and mine, as I might be on the same road as them if they happen to spit the chain off) I recommend a rivet link on the street.

You did loose me on the fist part of your reply. Where did you see anyone refer to any displacement sizes in any of the replies?

What was said is the a VTR (or any similar v-twin) is harder on a chain than even a much larger displacement I4. The reason for this is the 450 degrees of crank rotation between when the rear cylinder fires and the front fires. This tends to yank on the chain much harder than an I4.

Nope, not required... But if you choose a clip link, you need to check it, and while I do belive that most of the people on this forum keeps up their maintainance, the common average standard is more what I'd call the lowest common denominator...

Ie if I recommend a clip link and somebody neglects it, it will deteriorate and cause problems a lot earlier... On a track or dirtbike that type of maintainace becomes "mandatory" by their use, and it takes more effort not to check/replace the clip...

So for a roadbike that sees some miles on a set of chain & sprockets, I still recommend a riveted link... Especially since the easy solution is to offer your local shop mechanic a donut, and he'll likely lend you the tools, or do it for you...