Chain Alignment/Wheel Alignment tool
 

Just curious what your recommendation on rear wheel alignment tools are. I tried using the marks and they are dreadfully off and it doesnt help as the chain breaks in that it might not be enough for a full mark. From what I read there are two basic tools used for this sort of alignment. 1) Chain Alignment tool and 2) ProAligner Motorcycle tool which is basically 3 rulers with pivot points and marks and u use triangles to get it right. Just wondering what you guys use to align your rear. I've used the string method and its works its just a real pain in the arse.

Well... You can spend an awful lot of money on various tools... Or you can use the absolutely best tools... I'm willing to bet you have both lying around already...

A good quality caliper... It's unbeatable... Trust me... Just take out the slack in the chain by stuffing a rag in the sprocket and roll it back, that makes sure you have the chain slack where you want it, and then measure the axle position to a known, easy reference... It works, every time...

Motion Pro - Chain Alignment Tool


I use this. On and off in seconds, works great, and, hastle free in my opinion. However, as Tweety mentionned, the price of a rag, it's another good method. Never stopped to think of that one. :cool:

Yea never though of using a caliper but it makes sense. Glad to see that the motion pro works for you as well. i don't own a caliper i borrow one from my "dark side" friend. How ever I'll have to give that a try next time. If not glad to see the motion pro works seeing as they are like 15 bucks too.

Stock adjusters Suck ! my right side has too much slack etc.
Motion Pro has great stuff .. I use a plastic caliper , paid $2.00
it works great for chain adjustment , fits easy in a tank bag for long trips

I'm not quite clear on the caliper method. I understand how rolling the bike backward with a rag between the chain and the rear sprocket will remove all the play from the chain and ensure that the wheel is pulled forward if the axle is loose.
So what do you measure after that?
How do you identify the centre of the axle? Do you measure from the end of the swingarm to the side of the axle shaft? Or do you measure from the end of the adjuster bolt to the end of the swingarm?
There are a number of effective ways to do the job.
I bought a set of Henter Wheel Aligners about 30 years ago. I don't think that they're available anymore. I had to get a new rear aligner frame made because the original did not fit the wider tires that became popular.
I prefer to check alignment using the wheels as points of reference. Getting them into the same plane is the whole point of the exercise really.
I recognize that if the frame, forks and swingarm are true and the front wheel is installed properly, it doesn't matter whether you align the rear wheel by reference to the swingarm or to the front wheel.

I use a piece of string. ;)

Yep, the rag, and a ligth pressure on the other end of the axle by hand means you have the axle against the adjusters, like it would be once the axle is tightened...

You really don't need to measure the center of the axle, all you need is a point on the axle that's the same on both sides, to a point on the swingarm that's the same on both sides...

Basically, all you want is to know that the axle is square with the swingarm, and like you say, unless you have bent your swingarm or other parts, then it's also sitting aligned with the rest of the parts...

Thanks, Tweety. I'll pack a caliper when I leave on my next long trip.

Okay, I've got my flame-retardant suit on for this one... and there might be other retards like me who will benefit from me asking this, so: why cant you go by the amount of turns out on the adjuster screws from when they are turned all the way in? I know it's a pain to set them all the way in, but... has to be more accurate than the indicators, no?

I'm a big fan of the Profi Laser Chain alignment tool. Sends a red light beam from the rear sprocket/wheel forward to the countershaft sprocket. Dead nuts-on alignment.

Because there is no expectation (nor likelihood) that both fully bottomed adjustment screws will locate the axle 90 deg to the drive chain/ front sprocket.
And so from that lack of an aligned starting point, you will just be evenly uneven ...:lol:

You guys are WAY over thinking this. All you have to do is adjust the chain to the proper tension, then with one hand lift up on the bottom of the chain to remove the slack, or you could use the rag method if you prefer, and sight down the upper chain. If the sprocket is in align with the chain you'll be able to see it and adjust accordingly. You can use the marks on the swingarm to get you in the ballpark and just fine tune by sighting down the chain. WAY quicker and simpler than wrapping a string around your bike, or trying to find points to measure wtih a caliper or tape measure etc. and does a perfectly find job of getting the tire aligned.

Well... Since I'm always the last guy to touch my things, I could just tweak the bolts half a turn and be done with it... But I'm a bit anal, so yeah I will look down the chain, and then I confirm it with a caliper, ever other time or so...

My point wasn't that my method was the golden ticket... It was, why spend $10-15-20 for something you use on one thing, when a decent caliper is probably cheaper, and have multiple uses... I have yet to see a tool that's more accurate, including the laser one's... They are simply tools, and the accuracy is up to the user...

Doh... ;)

Wow thanks everyone for the truck load of info. I hope this thread helps someone besides myself. Glad we got alot of different options out of a simple question. Aloha

"Opinions are like a**holes, everybody has one".;)
But not all a**holes are entitled to the same level of deference. Some are superior in all respects. Some, sadly, are grossly defective. Perhaps there's a proctologist or two on the forum who can chime in. On the other hand, that would be a radical thread jack and some bright spark would post something about the thread being worthless without pictures.

You have never checked alignment with anything other then an eyeball have you :D

If you had, you would know,,,, the MK1.02 eyeball is not nearly as precise as ... well any actual tool designed to measure :)

No really... eyeballing it is fine if all you want is...... well, a guess.. and if that is all you want, use the marks on the adjuster.

If you actually want it aligned, you need to use a caliper, laser alignment tool, or some other device.

Great job ..

Though I think you just showed how non critical this adjustment is, and that even though not aligned with any real precision, the chain will live a long life.

Hence the reason the OEM's do not design or install a precision adjuster..