WTB: Looking for a front head, complete
 

My mCCT install came to a screeching halt when I couldn't turn the engine a full revolution trying to get my rear to TDC, due to the front being (probably) out of time.

Anyway, looking for a front.

That doesn't necessarily mean the head is fubared. So I'd do further daignosing before buying parts.

Re-time it and see if you can turn it over. Check the valve clearances. And lastly remove the head and inspect the extend of damage.

Check if there is piston damage etc.

Don't forget to buy a new head gasket.

Btw how do you know it's the front cyl head that is possibly damaged. Did the rear cyl check out?

All of the wrenching in my motorcycling life has so far kept me outside of engine work so this is new for me.

In other words, I don't know the extent of the damage and I'll be learning how to even identify it. I'll pull the head in the next few days once I know the safe/right way to do so. I did not examine the rear.

When I heard noise during that fateful ride, it seemed to be coming from the front.

If you just turning it over by hand, unless you were really reefing on it, it should be just fine. It's not going to bend a valve or cause any damage from just turning it over by hand. Re-time it and you should be good to go.

GTS, a few weeks ago while out on a ride, I suddenly heard something coming from the front cylinder that did not sound good. It wasn't a clunk, but it didn't sound good. I immediately killed the engine and pulled over. I trailered the bike home. I had a bad feeling that one of my OEM CCTs probably failed.

So... that's the back story.

If it was still running normally or, at least, on both cylinders up until you hit the kill switch, then you didn't bend valves. Others have been lucky and lost a MCCT without valve/engine damage. The noise you heard may have been a cam chain flopping around, but you may not have jumped timing or not enough to cause damage. Before pulling the head, confirm valve damage.

Pull the spark plugs .. Do a compression test -one cylinder at a time .. Turning the engine over by hand... In that process- DO a leak down test-one cylinder at a time.


LAST,LAST case senairo...
I have a complete set of heads, .. ( My back up heads)

1971allchaos calls for a vote of no confidence in VTR automatic cam chain tensioners.

As we spoke on the phone...
The simple test done with just basic hand tools and set of feeler gauges
Is to rotate the motor forward or back until the cam lobes are off the bucket. (the pointy end of the lobe pointed away from the valve bucket)

Measure the valve clearance.. if it is in spec or smaller on all four valves.. you likely did not bend valves and you'll need to do more diagnosis..
If you find any valve to have a wide open lash,,, well above the standard.. and if bent it'll be in the .125" or better range .. you have bent valve.. no guessing and no need to do a leak down to confirm.

It's simple, fast and conclusive for bent, and partial for not bent.

Erik..

I haven't checked the valve clearances... super busy with kids and work and I haven't been home except to sleep. Will get to it this weekend. Just wanted to have a head start (no pun intended) on tracking down a head since I didn't see anything on eBay.

1971allchaos, good to know there's a last last last resort in your garage. Lol.

I also have a couple sets of heads laying around if needed but only if allchaos didn't want to sell his not trying to step on any ones toes especially a good guy like chaos

Well I'll play you two against each other for the best deal anyway.. ;)

+1. First things first.

I have confidence in "Honda's engineers". My 2001,(24k) still has the OEM auto tensioners. Also another friend has a 1998 VFR , that I turn the wrenches on (since new) has 83,5XX (last service) still has the original auto tensioner. Which to examine the tensioner are fairly similar..


Yet maintains checks are the key...