Turning 25,000 miles, should I adjust valves
#1
Turning 25,000 miles, should I adjust valves
Getting close to 25k mi. 2003. When should valves be adjusted? I had a friend inst ape manual cct's at 5,000 mi., should I reset the tension? If so hand tight and back off 1/4 turn w/ eng at temp? Does cyl have to be at tdc to set tension or is that just for removal? Chain is stretched past limits, what is stock tooth count front&rear and should I repl. both sprockets, I do not see any appreciable wear on the teeth. Any other advise on what should be done at this time would be greatly appreciated. Should I get a 530 or 520 chain, I don't race and maybe go to the track from time to time.
Last edited by niteridder64; 03-22-2017 at 11:00 PM. Reason: add question
#2
I'd leave the mcct's alone and it wouldn't hurt to have valves checked.
To check your chain, on rear sprocket @ the 3 o'clock position (directly opposite of the front sprocket), try to pull the chain away from the sprocket. If its clapped out, you will be able to lift it a bit. Lotta times you can get 2 chains on 1 set of sprockets. They (the sprockets) will show visible wear when it's time to change. Stay 530, it will last longer.
16/41 is stock. Opinions will vary, I settled on 16/43 and like it. -1 up front is like +3 on the rear. I tried a 15f and it was a bit too much, so +2r was perfect.
One thing I would absolutely do is replace the steering head bearings with tapered rollers. Huge difference IMO. And flush the coolant.
To check your chain, on rear sprocket @ the 3 o'clock position (directly opposite of the front sprocket), try to pull the chain away from the sprocket. If its clapped out, you will be able to lift it a bit. Lotta times you can get 2 chains on 1 set of sprockets. They (the sprockets) will show visible wear when it's time to change. Stay 530, it will last longer.
16/41 is stock. Opinions will vary, I settled on 16/43 and like it. -1 up front is like +3 on the rear. I tried a 15f and it was a bit too much, so +2r was perfect.
One thing I would absolutely do is replace the steering head bearings with tapered rollers. Huge difference IMO. And flush the coolant.
#5
I did a valve lash check/replacement the other summer. I would recommend making specific shim purchases from Honda - this means having to wait for an order to come in over a few days to a week+. It offers more accurate shims than what comes in the Hot Cams kits.
#6
I'd leave the mcct's alone and it wouldn't hurt to have valves checked.
To check your chain, on rear sprocket @ the 3 o'clock position (directly opposite of the front sprocket), try to pull the chain away from the sprocket. If its clapped out, you will be able to lift it a bit. Lotta times you can get 2 chains on 1 set of sprockets. They (the sprockets) will show visible wear when it's time to change. Stay 530, it will last longer.
16/41 is stock. Opinions will vary, I settled on 16/43 and like it. -1 up front is like +3 on the rear. I tried a 15f and it was a bit too much, so +2r was perfect.
One thing I would absolutely do is replace the steering head bearings with tapered rollers. Huge difference IMO. And flush the coolant.
To check your chain, on rear sprocket @ the 3 o'clock position (directly opposite of the front sprocket), try to pull the chain away from the sprocket. If its clapped out, you will be able to lift it a bit. Lotta times you can get 2 chains on 1 set of sprockets. They (the sprockets) will show visible wear when it's time to change. Stay 530, it will last longer.
16/41 is stock. Opinions will vary, I settled on 16/43 and like it. -1 up front is like +3 on the rear. I tried a 15f and it was a bit too much, so +2r was perfect.
One thing I would absolutely do is replace the steering head bearings with tapered rollers. Huge difference IMO. And flush the coolant.
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